I have had thoughts of making a pvc pipe tank that would fit on the upper part of the front bumper support. But I wondered if it would be worth the trouble? I dont think much if any cooling ill occur in the tank?
Actually the volumne of the coolant is not that important. All of it is going to heat soak at some point anyway.The most important thing is to insure that you have a high enough flow rate out of the tank to supply the pump.
Ice is ok for the drag strip, but that would require a different set up -as in removing the radiator and pumping straight from the tank with the ice in it. It doesnt last long enough for street driving.
Meanwhile I have 2 90 degree turns in my plumbing that I am getting rid of ( on the return side) as this really affects the flow rate from these small pumps, getting the larger radiator, and even thinking about installing a submersible pump in my tank. This would get rid of some supply hose and it would insure that the pump is supplied very well.

does anyone know of a really good iat gauge set up that doesnt cost hundreds of dollors?

 

I dont think water wetter etc works via pressurisation, its just a liquid that allows heat transfer easily or something?

 

I havent found the water wetter stuff to help any? Anyone else actually seen any difference?

The trick is getting the water that is being supplied to the intercooler as close to ambient as you can.
Therefore this week, I am going to install my temp gauge to the cool side of the radiator and see how much cooling is really going on?
This will be before i install the larger radiator.
I will try to measure things as well as possible--ambient temps--rpms/speed--load--then the cool side temp.
Yall are aware that even out of boost when you put any load ( but no boost) on the engine the post blower iats climb?

 

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1310864894
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1310865011



how about this a/w radiator!
Dont worry it is going to fit.
see the temp sensor spot at the bottom right
i may not need to use a tank--dont know yet.

 

Finally made it to another Road Race event. This one at PBIR with the Gold Coast Porsche Club. Nice people, plenty of track time (145 miles in one day 5 heats). Ambient temps in the mid 90s and so humid that I think I saw a few fish out of the water chillaxing with a Coronas.

My engine coolant temps and oil temps are history now. Thanks to my previous mods (funneling the air into the oil coolers, widening of the air passage holes on the plastic shroud piece behind the oil coolers and fixing the gap space under the radiator plastic shroud). Engine coolant temps were @ 225 and same goes with the oil temps.

Car ran strong and lots of Porsche were spanked except for a few to include a mean GTR3RS

Watch video link below:

http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/m...nt=7-16-11.mp4
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Need some help too.

After PBIR and 2 hours of turnpike driving the idle started to fluctuate. I took the room fuse out for over 4 hours and did the brake pedal chicken dance afterward.

Car starts fine but once the idle settles the rpms start to fluctuate. It all goes away when I depress the clutch. So I took the cruise control disengage switch of the clutch pedal mount and the idle fluctuation goes away (even if I press the clutch in).

Weird

Any ideaers???????

 

nice vid, night driving? water on the track--man thats some things to deal with.
You are getting smoother out there--you need more traiffic --i can see you in the rear view mirror---you need to smile and wave lol. Glad I am not the only one that leans while turning.
I have some camera mount designs if you want them? Not that there is anything wrong with a helmet cam.
Car sounds good
The gauges on your a pillar--in order are they water temp, a/f and charge temp?

About the idle--check that the air filter piping is very very straight. If it slips a little it will throw it off.
Check the maf for any residual stuff that may have gotten it dirty?
I take it vacuum readings havent changed?
How the heck can cruise control affect it? LOL--did you use cruise control while on track!?
Maybe you where sucking so much air in that the screen you have got beat out of shape?

 

Stop drinking the funny kool aid.

Per the links below I think my problem is/are the clutch switch and/or neutral switch.


https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3905708

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/high-idle-clutch-pedal-out-normal-idle-when-clutch-pedal-pushed-202671/

 

hmmmm--thats interesting--i was thinking my neutral switch may be acting up too? Mine doesnt have that slow return to idle sometimes. Heck our cars are 8 years old now--maybe its time for little things to start showing up?
So 225F ect is ok? Thats at the ob2 sensor --right?
How were the other parameters that you where going to measure--the return coolant temps etc?

 

I have three more gauges were the ashtray used to be. IAT, AFR and ECT.

I also have a MSD Dash Hawk. All of them meassuring and keeping an eye while driving. Is like a freaking Spaceship at night but wanna make sure all bases are covered.

BTW, never over 7.5k rpm...mostly 7k unless I was passing or had to get rid of a pesky Porsche on the turns. So far the RX8 is way way way better on the turns than anything else on the track except for a Nissan GTR, Porsche GTR3RS, Lutus...well you get the picture. Some Stangs, Covettes, Camaros will blow by on the straights but not on the turns. They get a bit upset when I get on their rear bumper on the turns and some will and have lost rear traction trying to speed away

 

I'm with ya on that Juan. I've got the 3 on the dash and 3 at the ashtray and the scanguage II. I think I scan my guages more than the rearview mirrors!

 

me too--and with bifocals and only one good eye--its a real trip.

anyway---its fits!

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1311026616

it was a little more involved than i first thought but i made it work.
there are some little OD secrets to get this to work.

oh yea i didnt get a pic of the 6 inch spal fan i put behind the driver side oil cooler.

 

Race Roots previously sold an oil cooler fan kit so the secrets aren't all that secret ...

 

they dont make them anymore, but thats not any secret--.
the secret is how to get that big cooler into the position it is---hehe and still get goos air flow to the radiator etc.

heres the finished picture


https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1311036996


by the way that little spal fan really flows air--it will cool my oil temps while sitting at a redlight!



oh--by the way ---it works---so far.
its the coolest my a/w coolant has ever been.
it was an ambient of 90F--interstate driving at 3-3.5K rpms post cooler temp was 95--100F according to load and rpm.
BUT get this--off interstate---suburban driving--temp spiked to 105 but cooled to 98-99F in a few minutes.
Now this is without boost as that was my goal. On constant boost i will use the water meth..
I drove the car steady for about 30 minutes--so some heat soak would be possible if it was going to happen.

 

I hope it works Denny.....

from my experience in a lot cooler climate than yours the temps don't respond well with that much stuff blocking off the radiator......

 

some black thermal paint would be nice

 

Where??? I don't see it.

 

oh i have already tested it dan.
The cooler you see ---its only 1 inch thick and air flows well through it.
What you cant see is another very open finned secondary radiator behind that one with a pusher fan on it.

today it was 90F--my suburban ect was dead on 180-185F ( without fans). my oil temps was 185-190F, my a/w coolant temps varied from 90-105F with mostly in the 95 to 100F range.
At a redlight my oil temp started bumping up to 200F so just for the heck of it I threw the fan on--it cooled the oil off to 185 in just a few minutes--in between 3 redlights.
On the interstate it was even cooler. But not too cool.
You know I have been messing around with the cooling systems on this car for a while. I have found that you can stack coolers--but you have to plan carefully in the way you do it. If you dont and just throw them on you will get exactly what you suggested.
I am not a genius and I dont have a real secret---its just work and dont give up on what you want.

 

Good news.......it is the neutral switch stuck in the open loop position.

Bad news.........$54 for a new one thru Mazdamotorsports.

Better news.....It is already on its way.

 

anyone know what this is? and why i am getting it?
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ch&um=1&itbs=1

 

inline thermostat. Sorry Denny, I can't keep up on what cooling modifications you're always working on.

 

lol---well yall do know that I have a secondary radiator supplied by the heater hose? Right? The heater hose supply bypass's the engines thermostat.
It works very very well, BUT in cooler weather it can overcool the engine. So I am installing this inline thermostat to solve that problem. Its $60.oo, I will install a 180F thermostat in it, plumb it into the hot line going to my secondary radiator and that will be that. No more overcooling when the temp gets below 80F
That basically means for about $180 and a little work you can solve any cooling issues you may have. And never have to touch it again no matter how cool the weather gets.

 

I need the blower belt part numbers.

Standard Pulley
Bigger Pulley

Need belt part numbers not length number, not a dissertation answer too. Just a KISS type answer like 6K... part number.

Thanks

 

search noob--lol sorry couldnt resist


#4050325 goodyear gator back for stock pulley
#4050335 for the higher boost pulley--one inch longer

 

Thank you OD.......too busy cutting red wires.