olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok what sparkplugs are yall running on the street and track? currently i am running the one step colder denso's. There are others out there--some ngk's that are quite inexpensive.

Have any of yall rebuilt your calipers yet? May want to take a look at them?

Has anyone messed around (pettit guys) with apv openings? I would like mine to open a little earier--even thinking of using the old vfad connector to do this since i am too cheap to get a Cobb!
OD

Leandrys

Hey Kuco, give us news on rx8france, people are scared for your RX-8, we thought you had some major issues with your kit. ^^

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

With the new pricing, just break down and get the Cobb. I don't think you will regret it.

JMKuco

Hi !

Ok, I promise I'll post soon on rx8france...it's been one year now since I check this website for the last time

My car exterior modd is soon finished (for now)

Peoples will be shocked lol

JMKuco

I use all times the NGK irridium sparks

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

with the larger pulley and the larger psi of air i am wondering if a 1 step colder plug may be a really good idea?

Cobb? I wish. I think I cant learn anymore. Sure would be nice to turn that cel off(no cat or air pump). Let me borrow yours lol.
OD

morkusyambo

Old pump out, slightly used pump in. Pump still no worky. I know now I have to troubleshoot the electrical system. I'm not sure how to go about it. Any ideas??

morkusyambo

If you're happy with the Pettit tune I would advise sticking with that for two reasons. I screwed around with the COBB for 2 years and even though I found ways to squeeze a few more ponies, it was at the expense of a less conservative tune, and did not make the car seem quicker in the seat of the pants area. Last time I talked with him, Dian at EFI dude was working with me on getting a good flash for the larger pulley.

Give Cam a call and ask him about his new developments on the tuning front if you haven't allready. Don't spend $700 for the COBB if you are happy with the way the car runs.

-Adam

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Not much to learn. Press OK and drive off.

Price drop!
Also, it never ceases to amaze me how badly a car can run and the owner will still say "It runs great!".
I guess its a matter of perspective.

I'm late to the party. What is going on? No power to the pump at all? Is there power before the two fuel pump relays? How about at the fuel pump resistor pack?

morkusyambo

I don't know. Where exactly are the two relays and resistor pack? Pictures of the engine bay, or whereever they are would be awesome.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The two relays are in the front (bumper end) of the engine bay fuse box.
They are both blue, IIRC.

The fuel pump resistor is on the bracket that supports the air pump.

JMKuco

Hi Guys !
I just want to install a boost / vaccum Gauge (glowshift gauge).
But I do not know how (where) to install it !

help wanted guys !

thanks,

Rote8

Mine is in a Racing Beat pod, where the ash tray used to be.

JMKuco

I meant where to install it on the S/C
I never installed this kind of gauge (boost / vaccum) and I do not know where on the S/C I can plug it ...

if you can explain to me (+ picts if needed)

Rote8

There are vacuum taps on the bottom side of the "hump" of the Pettit upper intake manifold.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

I've got my intake manifold off. I'll take a pic and post it later.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

The one in the middle is the hose that goes to my boost/vac gauge. The T with the hose removed is where the small hose on the bypass valve goes.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I run my vac/boost plus bypass valve actuator from the two lower intake nipples. I run two vacuum hoses from the lower intake manifold to a T and then to a single hose to the bypass actuator and another T to the vac/boost gauge.

morkusyambo

Okay. I'll replace those and hopefully that does the trick.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

You ARE still alive!
Welcome back Bro---
OD

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Yeap, still alive.

Not much to report other than my still runing the way I like it. I added a MSD DashHawk and hoping to do my first mini road course on the 28th at http://cfracingcomplex.com/

Also, planing on driving up to TN/NC in April (Deals Gap Rotary Rally) along with Bastage.

Maybe porting my engine, better apex seals and installing the new set of RB oil cooler lines before the year-end.

One thing for sure is that I'm not interested in blowing my engine up in order to attain a couple of more whp.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

LoL!
I wish I could get yall on one of the road courses we do. This past w/e the gang, minus me, were at Carolina Motor Park with NASA and tracking when there was 6 " of snow on the ground and it was 22F! Idiots---but they are loveable
We will be at Road Atlanta In mid March and At Roebling Road In Mid May. You and yours are more than welcome and I will personally take care of ya mate.
OD

Rote8

Got Gas in the tank? (You checked this; right?)

Multimeter set to 20 volts to test for 12 volts, black lead to battery negative; red lead to stuff you are testing.
Got power to the relays under the hood? (fuse box behind driver head light)
Got power to the fuel pump resistor? (finned silver box under Air Pump mount)
Test the old pump with battery power?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

just check the power to the pump with a voltmeter or even just a circuit light.
if you have power it will show there.
am i missing something?
OD

hornbm

iTrader: (1)

So I have a question. I'm thinking about this kit, and am looking at the Stage II CS version which requires the use of a High flow cat. However I would much rather use the racing beat resonated mid pipe. Obviously this will trigger the rear O2 sensor error code.

The cobb access port has the ability to disable this DTC, so no check engine light ever comes up. Is this functionality coming to the EFIdude software? If not, why even use the efidude software in the first place? The cobb access port seems like a much better product, and hell it costs less.