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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 07:06 AM
  #5601  
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From: macon, georgia
with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.

Yall should I post my secondary radiator install details and results?
Sure controls engine coolant temps--ran it during all seasons not ---from 100F to 20F ambiet.
olddragger
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 08:51 AM
  #5602  
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Hey Rocket,

I agree with everyone, start with the standard kit, and build it up from there.

BTW, you'll have plenty of support from Rote8 and myself if you buy this thing. If you're interested I can give you a test ride in my car if you want to get an idea what this kit can do.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 10:59 AM
  #5603  
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From: Ona, WV
Originally Posted by california style
Rocketman, why not start with a standard kit and go from there?
I don't like to be standard...

I don't like the 195 rw torque and want it in the 225+ range if possible, not to mention I like the idea of making 400 flywheel hp which is what these guys at 327 rwhp are right at. I want my car to be respectable rather than a great handling car that on a hot day gets beat by a VW vr6, the car looks much faster than it is and I've dealt with that for 4 years now. I love the ride but I would like to walk away from a little more of the competition for my $7000. I'm am trying to gather as much info as possible so I don't have to change very much after my initial install.

Last edited by Rocketman1976; Jul 7, 2009 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #5604  
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You wont be standard you will be FI,,,
Besides Cam probably wont even sell the pulley and injectors to you outta the box,,,
He'll want you to get comfortable with the kit before boosting up...
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #5605  
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Again just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.

So does anyone here run the protuner software?
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 11:55 AM
  #5606  
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hey I only said start....

And anyway, as Rot says you wont be standard you will be FI uber 8
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 12:29 PM
  #5607  
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From: Guadeloupe (FWI)
Originally Posted by olddragger
hey what island--i lived in Jamaica for a number of years in the 70's?
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
olddragger

I live in Guadeloupe , in the French West Indies (south of cuba).

when I did my run, my coolant temp was more then 110°C

I thinck I'll get the veilside Hood to let the warm air going out
I like the varis ones but I do not want all the rain go into the engine bay ...
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 03:04 PM
  #5608  
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Get the AutoExe SE-03 hood,,, that hood is the shiznit,,,
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 04:30 PM
  #5609  
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From: Boosted...
Originally Posted by Rocketman1976
What wheel HP did you achieve and what psi are you running if you don't mind my asking? I am strongly considering ordering a Pettit SC in March and am looking at around 12 psi.
My best RWHP was 297 when I was running 7-8 PSI, I cannot dyno till I get a stronger clutch.
I can slip my clutch in second.
I am looking at a stage three ceramic clutch.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 04:33 PM
  #5610  
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Originally Posted by Rocketman1976
I love the ride but I would like to walk away from a little more of the competition for my $7000. .
then get a turbo


runs away and hides behind a bush LOL
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #5611  
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From: macon, georgia
all due respect rocketman--get the Volkswagen on a road track with the standard kit on your car and see where he ends up--the standard kit makes the car faster than the numbers sometime indicate.

Guade--I know where that is--we used to island hop from Kingston(Jamaica) to Cuba (Gitmo)
Beautiful country---yep and it is hot.
Get the secondary radiator set up to lower your temps man AND the hood--you can install the radiator yourself---look up my version of it.
Olddragger
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #5612  
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Originally Posted by Rocketman1976
What wheel HP did you achieve and what psi are you running if you don't mind my asking? I am strongly considering ordering a Pettit SC in March and am looking at around 12 psi.

Friendly word: LIsten to the advice people are trying to give you here. Start with the standard kit and get it sorted first. This is a S/C, not a turbo; boost values don't translate. What matters is what you can get to the road and control. Spend time working with Pettit and Dian getting your tune right first. Manage you engine bay heat and install a meth spray. If you have a good motor, the base kit will give you all the juice this car can put to public roads, and I can tell you for a fact no VR6 will touch you.
Going to a larger pulley runs your S/C closer to its rpm limit, increases exhaust gas temps and heat soak and decreases your fuel mileage. It's not as user friendly. And if you don't believe the exhaust gas temp thing, watch this vid and look at the manifold as the engine reaches top boost:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BGGBU2Lpyo

Slow and steady, my friend. Good luck.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 08:23 AM
  #5613  
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Originally Posted by Rote8
Some tips: (Others will correct me on these, but I think most of us agree with these)

Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)
I need pix of this.....PLEASE!

A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.
Yes it does - works great - thanks OD

The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.
I am a firm believer in the BHR coils.
Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)

Good luck, post the progress.
God I hate being the only a/t 8 that keeps trying the upgrades. I purchased the upgraded pulley and was going to install it last weekend but it did not work out. It looks like next weekend as I want my tuner in my garage when it gets installed. My tuner is not real excited about the larger pulley cuz he thinks that I am already maxed on my 4 port air flow. Cam seemed to believe that I would benifit. While there is signifigant differences between the 4 and 6 port they have more in comon that different. Is there any thing that any of you with the larger pulley would offer for advise? Any changes that I need to make (besides larger injectors). I would like this to go smoothly.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 11:25 AM
  #5614  
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Hey Phil, good luck, see what Cam and Ray say about upgrading/comverting you car to a six port, all the 07+ ATs have 6ports
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #5615  
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lots of other things would have to change for him to up to a six port.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #5616  
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From: macon, georgia
Well---- news!!!! I will attempting to make my own polyurethane engine mounts----stay tuned! It will be a few weeks.
OD
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 03:38 PM
  #5617  
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From: Under my car
Originally Posted by olddragger
Well---- news!!!! I will attempting to make my own polyurethane engine mounts----stay tuned! It will be a few weeks.
OD
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/filled-my-stock-engine-mount-urethane-105730/

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=12

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...80&postcount=5

Just sayin'
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #5618  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.

olddragger
Do you mind elaborating more on how g/sec is equivalent to hp at the wheels and not at the crank?
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #5619  
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From: Under my car
Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:05 PM
  #5620  
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
Thanks MM for clarifying that...I have had some questions regarding the g/sec that I have been getting, and I doubt it was wheel hp that I was getting.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #5621  
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From: PCB
No one believes the deviation from a known standard thing huh??? Ah well - if we can fight over dyno's we can sure as hell fight over airflow numbers I guess.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #5622  
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Originally Posted by Kane
No one believes the deviation from a known standard thing huh??? .
do you mean like if you dyno at 300 hp and 270 g/s then at 300 g/s you multiply by 300/270 for the new hp figure ?
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:16 PM
  #5623  
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From: PCB
Originally Posted by Brettus
do you mean like if you dyno at 300 hp and 270 g/s then at 300 g/s you multiply by 300/270 for the new hp figure ?
Yep... that would be the one.

X/Y = X2/Y2 and all that jazz.
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #5624  
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I agree - too many people around here get a maf reading and compare it with somone elses maf/dyno . Does not mean jack till you put it on the dyno
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #5625  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I agree - too many people around here get a maf reading and compare it with somone elses maf/dyno . Does not mean jack till you put it on the dyno
Yep.
But, MAF calibration aside, the basic relationship is approximately what I stated above.
Approximately is a BIG out.
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