Pettit Super Charger Owners
hey rocket---i havent heard anything good about the weapon r damper--some have mounted the Ingalls "stiffy" --but as others have said--its a bandaid/
i have spoken directly with someone with years of experience etc etc, and discussed my particular "problem" and he recommended stiffing the one motor mount with no higher than an 80A hardness AND a differential brace. I had not thought of that one.
Anyway the 1st week of august, this is what is happening
1- installing the bigger pulley(cam says i will be ok on the track because i have cooling under control and i am running the w/m system) with upgraded injectors
2- heat shielding the engines gas line and fuel injector railings
3- upgrading injectors of course
4- installing my worked on/polished lim(see pics earlier post) and true phenolic gasket
5- heat shielding the lim (spray on or shielding stuff--dont know yet)
6- double heat shielding the exhaust header(trying to get a Team rx8 header made)
7- motor mount mod (sourcing an old passenger side mount 1st)
8- installing a diff brace
9- installing new racing brake rotors (one piece--this are NICE)
after that--will take the wife out to eat.--Have to pay a lot of wife dues.
olddragger
i have spoken directly with someone with years of experience etc etc, and discussed my particular "problem" and he recommended stiffing the one motor mount with no higher than an 80A hardness AND a differential brace. I had not thought of that one.
Anyway the 1st week of august, this is what is happening
1- installing the bigger pulley(cam says i will be ok on the track because i have cooling under control and i am running the w/m system) with upgraded injectors
2- heat shielding the engines gas line and fuel injector railings
3- upgrading injectors of course
4- installing my worked on/polished lim(see pics earlier post) and true phenolic gasket
5- heat shielding the lim (spray on or shielding stuff--dont know yet)
6- double heat shielding the exhaust header(trying to get a Team rx8 header made)
7- motor mount mod (sourcing an old passenger side mount 1st)
8- installing a diff brace
9- installing new racing brake rotors (one piece--this are NICE)
after that--will take the wife out to eat.--Have to pay a lot of wife dues.
olddragger
whines all the way home
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,402
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From: Towson/Baltimore, MD
Macius
The map that is on it is only accessible when the software is set to programmer, not logger.
The best thing I can suggest for you is to log some data, a couple hard runs in 2nd through 4th and send those to Cam have him look at them. He will decide to either just tell you that everything is OK or he may have Dian to write a new flash for you...
The map that is on it is only accessible when the software is set to programmer, not logger.
The best thing I can suggest for you is to log some data, a couple hard runs in 2nd through 4th and send those to Cam have him look at them. He will decide to either just tell you that everything is OK or he may have Dian to write a new flash for you...
But can I run the car without a tune? I thought no. I already have the kit installed, but didnt run the car yet. Is it safe to drive the car without going into boost, is it even ok to turn it on? Worried about the 1.2k idle because of the sc. Sorry for all the questions. I will have a base boost map from Hymee for the protuner and will likely use that to start unless I can do something with the EFI dude for now.
How much does cam charge for the reflash? Like I said, bought the kit used so likely I'll have to pay for any tune from Pettit.
Thanks for the help.
How much does cam charge for the reflash? Like I said, bought the kit used so likely I'll have to pay for any tune from Pettit.
Thanks for the help.
I ran my S/C install with a stock map at first, just to see if everything worked. No need to go into boost, so with an essentially stock MAF everything should be OK to start and run. Then you can log for a short time to get the CAL ID, then get a boosted version of the map that is already in it.
Cheers,
Hymee.
Cheers,
Hymee.
She lives!!!
Turned her on for the first time today. Fired right up and after a few minutes settled down to a 1k idle. After the initial start up everything looks ok. Should get my calibration tomorrow hopefully, then I'll take her for a spin.
I'm so excited...
Turned her on for the first time today. Fired right up and after a few minutes settled down to a 1k idle. After the initial start up everything looks ok. Should get my calibration tomorrow hopefully, then I'll take her for a spin. I'm so excited...
since i will be ordering the 5 inch pulley tomorrow--what about fuel injectors--do i get the ones Cam offers--the blues, the browns, the tuddi fruities? Or can I just remove the pintle caps on the reds?
olddragger
olddragger
Juan went with the injectors from the 2009 for the P-2 and auxiliary/secondary ports.
later you may change for some more agressive stuff
well its official--i have the 5 incher with Cams fuel injectors on the way. He also passed along a little hint about the fuel line.
plus i did an old school fix to my driver side motor mount--anyone know what I did?
olddragger
plus i did an old school fix to my driver side motor mount--anyone know what I did?
olddragger
Last edited by olddragger; Jul 13, 2009 at 09:20 PM.
Why would you think removing the pintle caps will alter the flow? All it will do is make sealing them without a vac leak very difficult
Does anyone here have the Mazsport midpipe? Installed the thing today and my o2 sensor doesn't reach the bung. ?? any fixes for that? The brackets don't fit anymore as well. Any recommendations for aftermarket ones that will fit with the Mazport midipe?
Thanks
Thanks
^There is a plastic clip/holder that secures the wire to a bracket (near the harness where you plug the O2 sensor into).
You'll need to remove that from the bracket in order for the wire to reach.
Also, you are going to the front bung, not the one between the resonators... right?
You'll need to remove that from the bracket in order for the wire to reach.
Also, you are going to the front bung, not the one between the resonators... right?
This might be a stupid question or the way I am looking into your question, but you said that the sensor can't reach the bung.
Are you trying to install the sensor while its still attached to the wire harness?
Because you should screw the sensor in first, then connect the harness.
Are you trying to install the sensor while its still attached to the wire harness?
Because you should screw the sensor in first, then connect the harness.
1) I had to cut and splice the wires on the O2 sensor to reach.
(This may be part of my tune problem with long term trims)
2) The braces have never fit, on any car with the MazSport midpipe.
Racing Beat promises a better fit, but until I see one, I won't believe it.
I suppose they may guarantee a perfect fit?
AND we were able to reinstall the two cross braces.


