/\ makes me think my maf calibration is out up top as it was around 315g/s when i did 306whp on the dyno ...

 

Yeah. It should have been a bit closer to 360 g/sec or so on a turbo car.

 

I just found the ve chart the other day which was set to 1 in that range so I'm thinking that had a lot to do with it .
What Ve do you use at high rpm /load ?

 

thanks for clarifying the maf g/sec thing--i was only only repeating something i had heard--now i know better...... Just heard!
appreciate the link to the motor mount mod. Saves me some time in trying to figue out the best way of doing it. Is 3M wIndow weld about the same as an 80A hardness? Curious as to why only one mount was done?
olddragger

 

Window weld?
You should only use a two-part catalyzed urethane, not a synthetic elastomer contracting cement.
Window Weld (which is no longer on the market, anyway) is an aerobic cement. It is dependent on air to cure. Making a big, solid glob of the stuff will ensure that it never gets solid. Its final durometer hardness is probably only 40 Shore at best, anyway.
The stuff I list in those links is the real deal, priced well and absolutely tested and proven.

The passenger-side mount is the one that sees the most stress, heat and compression. The driver-side mount is cooler and is stretched under high motor output torque, not compressed.
Leaving that mount flexible reduces noise and vibration transmission.

BTW - you probably won't want to bother with a motor mount modification right now. There is something significantly better currently in the testing phase that is more effective, less intrusive and easier to install.

 

thanks for the info-- makes sense-----i am on the track again in October--will this new product be out by then?
Will it be made of nylon?

new subject--has anyone done any work on the lim? I know there are casting marks in the runners that can be smoothed out, the jet air removal can be done, the vdi sealed etc, has anyone tried to improve the trumpet shape (runner taper) , applied heat shield coating.
has anyone removed the lim without pulling the engine--i think it may be able to do so by removing the apv valves before its completely removed?
doesnt the apv open fast? Can it be program to open more slowly --say over a 1K rpm range?
OD

 

picture request*

Can someone please post some pictures of their crank pulley and entire belt setup.
Also if possible attach them in the "manage attachments" tab on the post reply page. This is the only way I can view them at work.
Many Thanks

 

in 2nd gear it does take a good 1000rpm to open
3rd takes about 400-500 rpm
4th about 300
5th even less

 

Wow, new plug wires. (and colder leading plugs)
I bought the MSD ubber crimp tool to make my new wires.
MSD makes a killer wire crimper.

Gleyner and Juan, let me know when you want to crimp some new plug wires.

 

I think the issue with attempting to remove the LIM without pulling the engine out is the distance the manifold has to travel out of the engine because the APV valves are inside the block.
I can't see there being enough room to pull the LIM towards the passenger side enough so the APV valves can be completely removed from the engine.

And what do you mean by:
Are you suggestion just pulling the LIM out enough to get a wrench in between the LIM and the engine, remove the gasket/plate, and squeeze in a 8mm socket to remove the bolt attaching the APV valve to the connecting arm?

Don't mean to "butt-in" on a Pettit thread... just saw this and wondered.

 

It might be possible to remove the LIM with the engine essentially still in the car by removing the motor mounts and raising the motor up as far as possible with an engine hoist and/or jack on the oil pan.
I haven't tried this, so I don't know if it is actually possible.

 

But to lift it THAT high, you probably need to remove some/most of the hoses and accessories.
At that point, why not just keep hoisting it up and out of the car?
Unless you can hoist it up enough AND not remove the transmission, then I can see why that might be doable.

 

Yeah, the tranny/driveline/PPF could stay in place, which is a major plus.

Its probably a bad idea.

 

yes --thinking that maybe you can pull the lim far enough out to unbolt the apv valves from the lim control arms? Maybe?
I have been playing around with a lim for a little while--there are some casting stuff that can be removed inside the runners, you can seal the vdi and smooth a lot of that area out some--you can work on more of a trumpet shape in the runners, you can vent it a little, polish it, remove the jet air stuff and smooth that out and port match it and last but not least you can install a true phenolic gasket.
So I am wanting to install --but I dont want to pull the engine to do it.
Not expecting a big performance improvement--maybe a little and the heat barrier gasket cant hurt

Thanks for the info on the apv opening range--any room for improvement?
OD
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1247184316http
://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141903&stc=1&d=1247184 393

 

Good to know because I plan on swapping a LIM this winter on another 8, so any inputs/ideas are appreciated.
Thanks Jeff.

 

Probably a bad idea. You will likley dump something inflexible into the engine and begin a very bad day.


Not directly. Its opening rate is fixed by the gear ratio of the motor itself. It takes a fixed amount of time to open.

 

True. Best way would be to change the gear ratio (like the gear that moves the connecting arm?).
Which might be hard given the tiny space (unless you cut some of the material out).
But do you see ANY reason why this could benefit anything?
Why would you want it to open slower?

 

That would be my luck indeed--like the little bolt coming off the apv arm.
Sounds like nix on "tuning" the apv opening.
You know I am still going to try- meh--thats why God invented certain cuss words and the Marines fined tuned my talent.

Have yall thought about running diesel oil ?
olddragger

 

I think you can pull the LIM with the engine in the engine bay and connected to the transmission; everything else would be like pulling the engine.
Remove the power plant frame, both motor mounts and swivel the transmission towards the passenger side. (plus removing several wires)

You don't save much effort from pulling the engine, and still need the engine crane.

 

well i will have her jacked up on stands and take some measurements this w/e hopefully--if not the next,--i will have a better idea of what it will take at least. its going to be close.

i have a solution for the motor mounts!!
clean them out and insert multiple hockey pucks!!!!!
olddragger

 

spoke with Cam today and looks like i will be joining the "big boys club" 1st part of august!
i will be ok for track.
od

 

i would think you would have to rotate the motor just a bit.

and if you are buying hockey pucks. i need two.. really! cant find them down here..

cam big boys club? and are you doing ta track day the 25th? wont be the same without you.

beers

 

Hey dude--nope cant do the little T--too much family stuff--we a re gathering for an assault on Road Atlanta in Oct.
OD

 

Are the engine damper kits worth while on saving motor mount life?

From what I hear they also impove engine responsiveness by eliminating a few milliseconds of motor twist time before the power goes to the ground.
Anyone think they are worth the money?
http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Weapon-R-25407.htm

 

Do all EFI Dudes come with a preinstalled map for the sc? I got my kit used and have no clue whether there is a map on it and whether I can use it on my car.