No, I did not install any screens. (yet)

I do still have the stock air box screens somewhere, I think those are 4 inch diameter screens and my pipe is 3.5.

 

Here are some quick pictures, (and a funny Vette mirror I saw at Cars and Cafe)

 

wow thats low! isnt it a water vacuum!

 

Im wondering why you didnt do a pipe to locate the filter above the bumper bar like in this pic...

 

I would think there's more air (and water ) to be had the way Norman's CAI is setup. I try not to drive my 8 when it rains anyway, so I'll probably do it his way, but initially I thought he would set it up ^ that way when he first mentioned he was going to build a CAI.

 

see Im of the belief the the turbulant air is too much plus the exposure to debris, the location I posted I think would be fine, the most important thing being that is outside of the engine bay.

 

you will definately regret that location every time it rains ....

 

Ok then where would you stick it?

 

I like that, I just followed the AEM/Mazda speed location. (or so I thought)

/I think mine gets colder air...

 

same spot as in above photo . I have mine in this location and can tell you that I still have the odd issue from water on the maf . Car runs like crap till it clears itself.

 

Mine seems to like less water injection when it rains.
I have a 60 nozzle before the S/C and a 175 on "the hump", so yeah, I have too much water/methanol..

 

try one of these Rote8
AEMs bypassvlve, when water or other stuff clogs or blocks the filter this picks up the load and keeps the constant suction, you can put this right outside the engine bay before your 90 degree bend,,,
http://www.speedstash.com/aem/aem_bypass_valve.html



3" outlets $50

 

Yeah, but they don't make a 3.5 inch one.

The AEM/Mazda speed for the stock 8 uses a 3 inch pipe, I went with 3.5 all the way. (same size as the MAF)

 

I'm back
just missed you fellows too damn much and the wife insisted ------- seems like I started bugging her ? I will try to behave---------maybe.
Anyway--lot of thought and effort into that cai dude. Neat setup. I have a ca pick up to the filter/airbox area. I am just wondering what kind of intake(post s.c.) temp difference is there? Doesnt most of our intake heat come from heat soak and that generated by the s.c.?

By the way --the latest development up this way is
1: more are installing the 2nd radiator
2- we are using diesel motor oil 15w/40 --I use Valvoline blue --go to the Ga rx8 club and read all the findings--seems like Rick Igram has always spoken well of using this!
3- take the knock sensor off your engine--wrap it in foam and mount it elsewhere--damn thing is useless anyway. remember Racing Beat had to remove it when they were hacking the pcm tune because it was interfering to much(without reason).
Ahhh--good to be back
olddragger

 

Hey guys. Well my install is officially underway. Have everything taken apart and just got to modifying the wire harness. I'm following the Pettit supplied instructions and they seem to be very detailed and well laid out. Now I have one question for you. What is the point of modifying the harness. Maybe I missed it somewhere and its buried somewhere in this thread, Im only up to page 125, but I really have no clue. I have the BHR coils btw, should anything be done differently?
Im hoping to have everything done by next week Cant wait.
Here's a couple progress pics.

 

Some tips: (Others will correct me on these, but I think most of us agree with these)

Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)

A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.

The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.

Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)

Good luck, post the progress.

 

Actually, if they connect to Manifold Vacuum, then they would not do anything. They in fact connect to the intake before the throttle body, and after the MAF. This means that they are at Atmospheric pressure, and when the engine is not under load (i.e. idle and light cruise) the manifold vacuum at the ports draws in air through the jets. The MAF of course is measuring the air as it is part of the combustion.

A supercharged engine still is in manifold vacuum at idle and light load, therefore these can still be functional if one chooses. Under load (i.e. no manifold vacuum), they don't really do much, apart from letting in more air to make more power, which is what we want, yeah? I prefer to leave them functional. Mazda must have spent a million dollars developing them for some reason!

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

I have skimmed through this thread and tried to find an answer but if anyone could help out I would appreciate it. Does anyone know what the max safe boost would be for a Pettit sc with mazsport ignition, cobb access port tuning and upgraded injectors using 93 octane?
Thanks for any info.

 

Hey, nice hearing from you.

Huh?
Maybe you meant after the throttle body and before the MAF?
I found a little more boost by blocking them.
The plumbing for the Pettit kit connects the Jet air to the OMP oil injection distribution block, and then connects both of these to the right side of the MAF, about even with the MAF sensor.

True, I am sure they do help at idle, but leak a small amount of boost to the MAF under high boost.

 

"Safe" boost is 0 psi
Sane is between 5 and 8
The larger crank pulley for the Pettit kit can make 13 to 15.

What is safe for your engine totally depends on your tune.
Too little fuel or too much timing advance for your amount of boost will cause detonation, which kills apex seals very fast.

 

No, I didn't mean that. They really do connect to the intake bellows which is after the MAF and before the Throttle body.

Yes, in FI you could get a boost leak back to the bellows when you go positive. Perhaps putting a non-return valve there so we can get the best of both worlds is the answer.

 

That is the most important thing for all of this. In the end, it doesn't matter what kit is making the boost, if the engine "blows up", it is because the tune was not right. The engine by its very nature is trying to blow itself up, the tune is trying to manage that. It comes down to greed in the end.

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Actually, I really love that quote, but come to think of it, it is only as safe as the tune still. If the tune if too greedy (lean, advanced), even in NA, then your gunna have melted parts.

I read good quote the other day...

Cheers,
Hymee.

 

Ah, it's the big endian vs little endian.
I was looking at it from the engines point of view, you were looking from the atmosphere view.

Regardless of which end comes first, our plumbing design has the Jet Air/OMP line going into the MAF tube just about even with the MAF sensor. (using the Pettit MAF tube)
I though boost from the lower intake going into the MAF tube was a bad idea, and one Mazda never intended in the design of the Jet-Air.
Maybe we do need a one-way valve; to stop boost leak at high boost, but still allow air to flow from the MAF into the Jet-Air nozzles at idle.
I think one like in the brake booster would work nicely.

 

Speaking of greed; Have you tried nitromethane in methanol injection? (Yes, no water)
It leans the air fuel mixture and adds octane. (be sure you have no leaks first, as this stuff is extremely flammable; and burns invisible too.)
The most awesome mix I used was 40% nitro and 60% methanol.
I was driving and saw water coming from under my hood, the intake was icing and water was condensing onto the intake. (Not something to do everyday)

It will wear spark plug tips !!! (and probably apex seals)