morkusyambo

^+1^

morkusyambo

OD, I used the same wiring diagram as Juan, and neither him nor I have had a lick of trouble.

-Yambo

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i did too--and thats the fustrating part. Just my dang luck a gremblin of some sort has taken up residence in my ig system. I even soldered all the connections etc.
Can the capacitator go bad? But if it did it would affect ALL the firing on all coils--so cant be that.
Did you have to add a spacer to your pickup like Dann is speaking of? May try that.
currently just tracing all wires to insure all connections (did replace the power wire pigtail as it was busted up but it was wrapped etc and once repaired it didtnt make any difference), wires are ok and using this "oppitunity" to sanitize the harness/engine bay. also double checking the spark plu wires and installing wire loom to keep them separated well
I have female connectors for the oem set up--think i will order one new coil and make a plug and play system while running the stock set.
There should not be any difference as far as wiring between the yukon coils and the ls2 --right?
thanks for all the help guys.
olddragger

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Denny,

Did you soldered directly into the coils connectors? If so, you probably ruined the internal coil connectors/solder. I'm speaking from experience.

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

Correct. They are exactly the same except the yukons have a heatsink on them and the mounting points are oriented differently.

So let me get this straight: your coils all work at low RPM but when you rev the engine some of them stop firing? If that's the case, you mostly likely have some bad coils. I had this problem initially with some used coils purchased off of ebay, and it was verified with a timing light. All 4 coils would work fine while idling, but once they went over 4k rpms, 2 of them would quit, and it was always the same 2 coils (we swapped connections/plug wires around on them to verify it was the coils and not the connectors/plug wires). Once I had some good coils in there, it ran excellently, and I haven't had a problem since. Test them out with a timing light and see if this is what's happening.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

+1

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The timing light verification method works best if you tape it to the windscreen and have a passenger watch it while you beat the living crap out of the car.
Testing at idle won't tell you much.

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

Right, especially since his seem to fire fine while idling.

Rote8

I read the Yukons actually have more current flow, but even the LS* coils have way more spark than the stock coils.

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

What is the scoop with the connector on these LSx coils?

The problem I'm chasing is intermittent. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/lets-play-good-coil-pack-bad-coil-pack-161523/

Cheers,
Hymee.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

yes i soldered the wires of the connectors to the harness wires--about 3 inches of wire from the connector itself--my connectors were preformed and had wires already.Used a mini torch to do it. It was 36F while I was doing this--I got a tad bit cold. What internal solder are yall talking about---should I just use connectors then? Juan didnt you form your own connectors?
Got my oems back on(had to re solder all those d--- wires--)-car runs like a top now.
As stated probably bad coils--i did get them from e bay but its a long standing company. Havent given up---ran across some female connectors for the oem ones so a plug and play set up is being formed
right--- mine was ok at idle, at crank and at free rev--it was only when a slight load was placed on the car like acceleration or going up a hill--so bad it was not drivable. Just my d--- luck.
At least she is ok now to get me to my class with Eric Meyer concerning rx8 chassis set up at Road Atlanta this w/e.
thanks for all the support ---will try again after Christmas.
Have a fuel system to now work on.
OD

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

Is the business you bought them from in COLUMBUS,OH 43231?

If so, they sell used/probably factory rejected coils they claim to be new. 2 of mine were bad, so I sent them all back, and got 4 as replacement, which had at least one that didn't seem to like high RPMs, because it felt a little off. I ended up just buying the Yukons from Northeast Core and Component (which were definitely new) and have not had a problem.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=37

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I knew one of me buddies would point me in the right direction instead of yelling about the search button.

Cheers,
Hymee.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

california style

haha, first the carrot, and THEN the stick! 8)

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

Hahaha. I must be that clever that I don't get that on my main menu !! LOL.

morkusyambo

OD, i'll take some pictures of my setup and post them here so you'll have another visual. I also soldered my connections.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Life is good! From a cruising 80 mph to 129 mph with AF ratios below 12. Although fuel pressure/flow was plenty judging by the AF ratios, a fuel pressure gauge is in the works to make sure the fuel pressure does not drop due to my new secondary 440 injectors. I also have something else in the works, ha!

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

For you MAF junkies, a datalog from this afternoon:



Yes, that is 387 g/sec at 6800 RPM in 4th. Load of 2.0.

california style

Good stuff. Nice airflow. I bet that keeps you pushed into the seat!

PS Juan. You never stop! Keep adding bits mate! 8)

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

nice numbers dude.
txs mork after the reverse analysis was done it boils down to one coil totally shot and one coil marginal. I have some female plugs for the oem one and i am going to make a plug and play harness.
The guys I got the coils from are not in ohio and they are talking to me. You are right I dont think they were new.
right now trying to get some Yokohama s drive tires on--the ford place here screwed me over--i took time off from work etc for my appointment install and I get there and suddenly they cant do it. There guy is "tied up" on another job(great guy by the way)--pissed me off. They should have called me. Guess an $800 set of tires doesnt matter to them. Told them to forgot it.
OD
OD

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

alright still having the stall issue...
Only happens after stopping for gas, no matter what my driving habbits were prior.
this time it took 4 start ups to finally have it sit at idle...
Any suggestions? simularities....
I will data log this next time since I know its a instance I can easily replicate...

Moon Assad

Try checking your coils, since the trail fires first at idle you might have one going bad. When we did the install on Rolands car wich only had 700 miles on it, if I recall, 3 of his coils were bad already. I cant count how many went bad on my car.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Well folks, I guess is time to let you know about my latest mod. After weeks of begging Cam let me purchase an SC Automatic eccentric shaft pulley. I other words, a 5-inch pulley instead of the SC Manual 4.5-inch. I finally had the time to install it this afternoon. I took the car for a quick around town test and I immediately noticed a bit more of blower whine were before I could not hear due to my Exotic Speed header/RB race pipe/RB exhaust combo. I got 10.3 psi boost at @ 8200 rpm. The SC belt needs a bit more tightening (new gatorback 33.5 inch) but I’m waiting for it to stretch before I readjust it. According to a website with a pulley conversion that I use, my new drive pulley ratio is 1.479 from 1.331 At 8200 rpm the blower is turning at 12,127 rpm. I would have to hit 8800 rpm in other to max the blower’s 13000 rpm but why should I since 8200 rpm is where peak hp rest. Noticed that my AF ratio fluctuate below 12 when the engine rpm is below 8000 rpm and just over 12 after 8000 rpm.

Anyway, before you start thinking (I got to get me one of this) I highly recommend you to address your SC RX8 ignition, injectors and methanol injection or you might end up rebuilding your engine due to a catastrophic case of detonation. Mine runs with MSD and NGK 10.5 leading ~ 11.5 trailing plugs for ignition, 440 (blue) secondary injectors, 50/50 mix of VP Racing M-5 methanol, RP 10W-40 and K&N oil filter.

I’m installing a temporary fuel pressure gauge tomorrow just to verify that the fuel pressure does not drop below 60 psi while at full throttle (drive it like you stole it) mode and from sustained highway cruising speed to (I hope there is not a cop ahead, behind or around the corner) mode.