Hmm that was almost like the dream I had about liquid Nitrogen filed cooling jackets almost like a turbo jacket but wrapped around the UIM post after cooler

 

If we could figure out where to put the tanks, pumps and compressor it might be good here in the summer and then again all that weight .

 

well--- i have too much cooling capacity. I didnt think i would ever be able to say that!
I completly blocked the secondary radiator, the ambient this morning was 39F.
car never got over 150F coolant (or oil). Yesterday going home in the evening ambiet was 62F car never got over 150F then either. would still get to 140 if on the interstate at 62F ambient.
So --conculsions are--
1- the 180F thermostat has been drilled to much allowing to much flow through it below its rating.
2- the oem thermostat and its oem bypass function may be causing higher temps itself, by design, and the oem radiator alone with a thermostat modification may be enough to control temps. The secondary radiator may end up not being needed
plan--get another Mr Gasket thermostat, do less drilling to decrease water flow before warm up, take all blocking off the seconadry rad, and see what happens.
140F is too cool for street use---ok for the track--but not a DD.
OD

 

ok i have gotten a little preplexed here.
Last night I replaced the mr gasket thermostat with another 180F Mr gasket thermostat. this time i only drilled one small hole in it instead of 3, and was able to position it so i did not have to notch the bottom of the barrel.
This did not help--engine still too cool at 130-140 F on a 38F ambient. During ambient of 62-65 temps 140-150---still too cool.
One hole in the thermostat is only giving a small flow, very small flow so I dont see how that would by itself cause these cool of temps.
So maybe I am overradiated. Therefore today i will bypass the secondary radiator (easy to do--maybe takes 5 mins) and see what happens.
May end up with a summer setting and a different winter setting!
Damn car
OD

 

Yeh, the heater core lines flow all the time so now the coolers are over efficiant. Well, more proof it works, better then we first thought, who woulda thought. Guess its a standerd for any temps above 90. Yes that goes for NA also.

 

well that was what i was also thinking. its simple to just hook the hoses back together for the winter. that is what i am going to try 1st.
i do need to watch for hotspots forming since the bypass is plugged.
i wonder if it would be better to replace the 180 thermostat with the oem one and open the bypass back up and add the restrictor back to the heater hose. then keep the second rad functioning? Ah hell thats too much work--just mate the hoses back togerther!
OD

 

Just get another housing and put the OEM one back in for the winter

 

Easy, T off to the heater core and add valves to the front coolers to shut them off in parllel. That way when its hot out you just open 1 valve and shut the other. Just a thought unless you want to drain your system next summer again. Make sure you use hi-flow valves.

 

yep--looking at 3 way valves right now(still want my heater to work)--great minds think alike
OD

 

I can't believe you are running a second rad. uncontrolled by the thermostat ......

I think you would be better to have the stock thermostat and have the second rad going through it .

 

Hey Ya'll:
How do I register my info? How do I add pictures to the bottom of a message? My pictures are on Kodak Photo share. I have an 07 w/ Pettit SC 6sp auto.

 

i use image shack to host my photos....

http://www.imageshack.us/

let me know if you need some instruction

PM Phil's 8 with your name and other demographic info and he will put you on the map

 

hey Brettus --it worked well until the temps got below 60! remember i installed a custom 180F therm and closed the bypass passage with this install.
remember your heater is not regulated by the thermostat either
feeding in a series with the oem radiator is an option but would require substantial reducers that I thought may restrict the primary flow too much.
So I went with my 1st thought and it worked ok--until the cool temps.
Now just a simple 3 way valve fixs the "too cool" problemand warm up is good.
OD

 

By the way:
Welcome to the FI club....

 

second that--let us know if we can help ya anyway--and dont ask me for advice on pics--my rep is legendary
OD

 

Listen guys (and Shinka), get your docs to run a test to see if you show antibodies to the SC Virus; I just ordered a blower for my Nissan Xterra from Stillen. Not sure if there is a vaccine or whether you'd want one, but you can never be too careful. Untill you're certain, be sure to practice safe induction. Don't want any unintentional blower-transmitted diseases.

 

Funny you should mention that, saw some driver running CO2 fire extinquishers with solenoid activated jets on his I/Cs. Crazy.

 

i am using a trojan-enz (reservoir tip) just to make sure!!!





PS...shhhhhh!!! i am already contemplating the TRD blower for my FJ...that will prolly be a spring project....

 

Yeh, I might just have to catch that one, my SUV is about to be my 2nd form of transportation so that might be an option, your lucky your SUVs have kits made for them, the one for mine was discontinued so id have to build one from scratch. I was looking at your directions Wess, I think I can go the same route, remove the upper intake and throw the IC in between then the blower with huge bird catchers sticking out on my VX hood would look sick.

 

ahh. your the guy that won that green rx8 in that contest right? congratulations with the win and welcome to the forum. to post pictures hit the "go advanced" tab below the area where you type your message, it will bring you to a differnt page where you have more options. then you want to go to the kodak site and copy the link to the picture, then come back to the message page and click the small icon with the picture of the mountain with yellow sky if you put your clicker on it, it should say insert image, click it and paste your link in the box. you can preveiw your post as well to make sure it worked.

 

f/u on the "overcooling"
today--it was 50F this a.m. I have complety bypassed the secondary radiator. No coolant is going there.
Temps--stop and go -----------150F basically.
On an open part of the road approx 2 miles--speeds 55mph --temp fell to 145F
city stop and go 160-170, suburben stop and go--155-160.
Ok --summation--the 180F therm and the bypass plug is working pretty dogone good.
My thermostat modification now consist only of 1 drilled hole (3/16th)--no slots in it--- no other holes. So with just that little flow on the open road--i am still cool. So I am thinking that the bypass in our car is more active than we 1st thought in overall regulating higher temps. it is not just for warm up.
I am now thinking to revert back to the oem thermostat housing and thermostat with the bypass channel in the oem config of course and reattaching the flow into the secondary radiator. Then see what happens.
Maybe our bypass channel is staying partially open longer than it should (thermostat is not sealing it soon or well enough?) and causing reduced flow through the radiator leading to higher than expected temps when the coolant system is being needed at its capacity?
OD

 

Not to push you completely over the edge, but here's the Stillen dyno charts- check out the torque curve. About 8 lbs boost; the TRD should be similar:

Horsepower: http://www.stillen.com/product_files...~dyno.1.HP.jpg

Torque: http://www.stillen.com/product_files...~dyno.1.TQ.jpg


Wild. I got mine on sale for 4K with free shipping; now the price is showing 6K.
Right time, right place for a change.

 

1. Owners Name(s) & Handle:
2. State:
3. AT/MT
4. Installed By:
Ether post this information or PM me and I will register you and get your name on the list and the map.

 

ok dont know if anyone is really following my coolant exploration--but its a good personnel record so today
ambient 58F 6 mile drive as usual--temps 160F if driven in 5th gear and keep rpms up to 3K(which may be a good thing to do)--no spirited driving.
plan to keep as is until after this w/e. this w/e i will be on the track ambients in the 70"s is the forcast.
1- will run one day with mod thermostat (180degree) one session with secondary cooler, one without--will try yo do this where the ambient does change that much.
2- the next day(forcast in the 70's again) i will reinstall the oem thermostat and do the same.
we will see what happens.
some thoughts--
1- our engine absorbs more exhaust heat than previous rotary's did because of the side exhaust port. That design change allowed more coolant jackets to be around the exhaust ports-- accuate temp measurement has to be in the proper location and I am not sure where i am measuring from is good enough. The heater hose outlet is BEFORE the exhaust ports. But, for combustion chamber area temps you dont really have to monitor after the exhaust ports---right?
The oem sensor is after the radiator ---correct?
Do we need to monitor at the hot radiator hose?
anyway I suspect that i will end up with a winter setting and a summer setting .
i suspect i will be going back to the oem thermostat and bypass passage and in the winter i will stop the flow to the secondary radiator and when ambiets get over ---say 80F--i will reopen the secondary radiator. Too bad I have to wait on seasons to explore all of this
you could even rig an open/shut switch inside the passenger compartment if you wanted.
learning a lot--an will have a way of consistantly and effectivly keeping this engine in the proper heat range.
Whew.
OD

 

Ok, here goes nuthin.
1. Owners name: Bill Lynch (BLYNCH)
2. State: Alabama
3. 2007 6sp AT
4.Installed by Cam at Pettit.