Moon asks, is that a challenge, lol. Im positive the snout can be shortened, can you say cake. Also the redline on the Eaton blower is 18k.

 

Not really...we'll say I already know it can be done successfully, just not on that particular model.

 

Well thats the plan im gona make it fit. We started off with the 1.4s and only made 220 240 WHP. We went to the 1.7s and have what you see in current trim dynos over 300 WHP withought an increase in boost. So doing the math with a 2.1it should see 340 to 360 WHP withought comming close to overspinning the blower. Keep in mind that the 1.7s redline at 13k and stage 2 is 700 RPM short of its intended redline. Im looking at the blower at this moment and im sure I can shorten it and mill away a bunch off the intake on the back of the blower, and get rid of the butterfly bypass system.

 

340-360whp seems like a pretty aggressive goal. I think it's definitely possible, though. As for shortening the snout, you could contact a Magnusson dealer - as they are the extension that sells Eaton hardware to the aftermarket. They have different options for snouts, intakes, etc...may cut down on the custom work for you guys.

Sending you a pm...

 

if you are going to 13 lbs of boost--dont you have to be mindful of the exhaust port?
OD

 

Imight be mistaken but I dont think Moon is putting that on an 8

 

Ohhhhhhhh.
Question to all. I have been running the mazsport ignition package for some months now. I dont seem to be having a problem. Maybe its because i have a really good ground and maybe because we are running off the oem pcm and the dwell time is oK?
I have heard of others having probs with the dwell and performance.
Should I swap over to the oem coils or the ls1 /msd ones?
OD

 

hmmm, I dont know it seems like there is discussion that says that it runs alright, whowever there are plenty of people that have had problems, these being no more major than the oem coils have...
I have the Mazsport sitting in a box still debating wether to put them on or not...

 

I vote LS1/MSD

 

My blower is now insulated from the radiant engine heat.
Two layers of Pettit's sticky backed heat shielding are wrapped around the super charger.

 

all the way around?
OD

 

yeah swoope...thats what we call it....
pics or it didnt happen???

http://www.fjbruisers.org/forum/index.php?topic=2193.0

there are pics throughout...
my rig is the white one...

 

Cool pics Pat looks like you guys were as happy as pigs in mud.....

 

oh yeah...and that hill??

moon was the first one over it...flyin thru the air...

he got stuck twice tho...
i pulled him out!!!

 

Bottom and both sides two layers, top has a single layer where it was exposed.

sigh, it's 40 degrees outside now....


Thinking of covering the I/C, after all "form follows function".....

 

at some point covering the whole SC doesnt it start to hold in the built up heat from the SC???

 

That's a good point, but I would think that having no insulation would be worse considering how much heat the blower absorbs from that hot engine bay.

I think that Juan has reported consistently lower air temps since he insulated his blower.

BTW, my RP supercat failed (after at most 12,000 miles). I was having some stalling issues and I figured it had to do with the cat since they were intermittent, and a very hard rev would cause the problem to go away for a while.

I jacked up the car and removed the midpipe to discover a tennis ball-sized chunk of the catalyst waffle had broken loose. To make a short story shorter, I'm now running catless. The RP supercat is now an RP super-pipe.

I've driven 160 miles since, and have not had the issue, and the car seems to pull harder and is not any louder than before (still using the stock exhaust). I still have my stock cat-pipe that I will switch back to for any long trips in the future.

 

hmm Ive had the super cat for about 13K miles and the blower's run through about 600 miles so far, I've had the stall issue twice.
Both after hard runs, then driving for a while stoppong for gas, after starting it up would drive to a stop sign and then rpms would drop and stall, it would do this about three times each then no more problem...
I guess I need to get her up in the air this weekend....

 

That sounds just like what I've been experiencing. Keep in mind though that after the reflash there's some potential for stalling while the ECU learns your driving habits, but that should be cleared up after a few drive cycles.

 

What's the highest MAF reading you guys have logged? I did 346g/s @8500 rpm today.

 

Wow, ive only heard of 1 higher, thats awsome.

 

hmm, I think I may have done better than this since, but I don't recall getting 340's.

 

303 sustained while pulling approx 7.8K in 5th gear for approx 3/4 mile(on the track
OD

 

ok i have a problem-----this morning started getting misfires--both rotors. car was running fine when i shut it down and the next morning this started.
anytime i put a load on the car -say more than 10% throttle-the misfires start.
codes po300-301,po456(have to tighten my cap!, and po113(iat). Would the iat cause this? Need new maf?
OD

 

I just browsed the cel list. Maf appears to be the most likely culprit, followed by e-shaft position sensor, intake manifold leak, low fuel pressure and bad spark.(pcm? hope not!)
I live around Montgomery, AL, and we had a big swing in temperature and humidity in the last couple of days. Could it just be moisture in the connectors? I love problems that fix themselves.