Pettit Super Charger Owners
whines all the way home
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,402
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From: Towson/Baltimore, MD
What I see are two belt tensioners , which should prevent any slippage, this pick is an old pic denny the engine wasnt even running at the time , of the pic, agree though that face plate looks like it would be a big heatsoak...
Juan- I kinda agree with denny on this in the 7 thread hes running a 20B and probably needs them for the turbo,,,,
Juan- I kinda agree with denny on this in the 7 thread hes running a 20B and probably needs them for the turbo,,,,
Last edited by Rotr8; Oct 24, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
There is only one tensioner, that cast aluminium looking thing to the left. The "other" one you refer to is just a plain idler, and is there to give maximum wrap around the layshaft front pulley (blower drive). The more wrap, the less tension is needed to prevent slippage. I have not seen any evidence of slip to date.
As to the the issue of the loads on the front main bearing, I don't believe that this setup imposes a great deal more load, for two reasons - firstly the spring loaded tensioner is not giving considerably more tension (if any) than a properly tensioned "fixed" system such as stock. Secondly, I'm running off the standard main engine pulley, not an additional pulley swinging even a greater bending moment out the front. So there shouldn't be any greater load on the front bearing other than the additional effort to turn the blower anyway.
Heatsoak? It wasn't designed as a heatsink, but if it is functioning like one then that is a bonus I guess. It only needs to be 1/3 the size (front to back) as it is just the plenum cover. But we thought it would look good as "full size" cover with some artwork on it
In practical terms, I spent 3 out of 4 sessions at the last track day running around with the standard engine cover on, just to test for issues - or prove a point. Nothing to report.
In those pics the throttle body and MAF are not sealed together, but in the current running setup it is. I have one hole in the MAF tube downstream of the sensor for the engine breathers. I don't see any reason why a water/meth injector couldn't go there as well. Why not spray one into the boost pipe leading into the plenum?
Cheers,
Hymlee.
As to the the issue of the loads on the front main bearing, I don't believe that this setup imposes a great deal more load, for two reasons - firstly the spring loaded tensioner is not giving considerably more tension (if any) than a properly tensioned "fixed" system such as stock. Secondly, I'm running off the standard main engine pulley, not an additional pulley swinging even a greater bending moment out the front. So there shouldn't be any greater load on the front bearing other than the additional effort to turn the blower anyway.
Heatsoak? It wasn't designed as a heatsink, but if it is functioning like one then that is a bonus I guess. It only needs to be 1/3 the size (front to back) as it is just the plenum cover. But we thought it would look good as "full size" cover with some artwork on it
In practical terms, I spent 3 out of 4 sessions at the last track day running around with the standard engine cover on, just to test for issues - or prove a point. Nothing to report.In those pics the throttle body and MAF are not sealed together, but in the current running setup it is. I have one hole in the MAF tube downstream of the sensor for the engine breathers. I don't see any reason why a water/meth injector couldn't go there as well. Why not spray one into the boost pipe leading into the plenum?
Cheers,
Hymlee.
Last edited by Hymee; Oct 24, 2008 at 12:46 PM.
Oh - and as to the question of the strut brace, it isn't shown in that picture, but it all fits in with the standard strut brace installed - if that is any help to answer the question.
Cheers,
Hymlee. (where did that come from hehehe)
Cheers,
Hymlee. (where did that come from hehehe)
whines all the way home
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,402
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From: Towson/Baltimore, MD
Thanks for the info Hymee, Ive rarely gone to your thread in the last couple years but once this is out I think I will,,, do you have any ETA on the release date yet...
Your right that 'cover' does look good..... nice clean package....
ahhaha lol --- Hymlee could be funny though, alsmost like heimlich maneuver...
you could say you performed the hymlee maneuver for the 8 'forcing it to breath faster'
Your right that 'cover' does look good..... nice clean package....
ahhaha lol --- Hymlee could be funny though, alsmost like heimlich maneuver...
you could say you performed the hymlee maneuver for the 8 'forcing it to breath faster'
Yeah, I'll save any more discussion on my kit for another thread. I didn't really mean to hijack this one, but I did get asked some questions. I hope you guys don't mind. Cam and I get on fine anyway. I've even shot the breeze (?) with him once or twice from all the way over here.
Cheers,
Hymee.
Cheers,
Hymee.
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
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From: Maryland
I was kicking around in the garage and stumbled onto this, almost forgot about it. Didnt get it finished because I started at Pettit with the SCs, might get around to finishing it one of these days. Thought you guys might get a kick out of it.
well at least I am not alone anymore
Hymlee--dont worry about hyjack man--we are all here to learn. no mine is better than yours here for me.
since in America we have the steering wheel on the correct side would that belt tensioner still fit or does it really make a difference? Probably not.
What type bypass valve are you using?
How is your idle and how did you handle that?Now talk about the intercooler
thanks man
olddragger
Hymlee--dont worry about hyjack man--we are all here to learn. no mine is better than yours here for me.
since in America we have the steering wheel on the correct side
would that belt tensioner still fit or does it really make a difference? Probably not.What type bypass valve are you using?
How is your idle and how did you handle that?Now talk about the intercooler
thanks man
olddragger
Pettit fangurl <3
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,386
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From: Aston, PA
Registered
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,574
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From: Boosted...
Registered
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,257
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From: Maryland
cant wait til you get that thing going
temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD
temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD
cant wait til you get that thing going
temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD
temp this morning in middle Ga was 36F--car never got over 140F in a 6 mile stop and go drive. I went to a 10w/40 oil and I am ok with a 140. I do let her warm a little longer on as cold of a morning as this was.
If it goes anylower than a 140 then i may have to block some radiator off.
OD
yep--i let it warm up in the driveway for a few minutes to 160 before i started driving.
down to 140F and no higher. oil or coolant. i may have too much flow through the thermostat, but 1st since it is going to be cold in the a.m, expected to get to 34F, i am covering the secondary radiator.
olddragger
down to 140F and no higher. oil or coolant. i may have too much flow through the thermostat, but 1st since it is going to be cold in the a.m, expected to get to 34F, i am covering the secondary radiator.
olddragger
covered the secondary radiator this a.m.
ambiet temp 34F
coolant and oil at 150F--never higher--back to 140F during substained hwy driving. back to 150F during city stop and go redlights kind of thing.
The cover I used was not totally non porus--very restrictive but not totally.
Guess I will be cutting a piece of plexaglass tonight>
will be in the 40's tomorow morning.
The car sure likes the cool temps!
olddragger
ambiet temp 34F
coolant and oil at 150F--never higher--back to 140F during substained hwy driving. back to 150F during city stop and go redlights kind of thing.
The cover I used was not totally non porus--very restrictive but not totally.
Guess I will be cutting a piece of plexaglass tonight>
will be in the 40's tomorow morning.
The car sure likes the cool temps!
olddragger
Woke up at 3 am this morning with another brilliant but totally unworkable idea to add extra cooling. I'd been reading about radiant heating for homes where tubing is embedded into the the concrete floors and heated water pumped through it to heat the floors. I though "wow, you could route this stuff under the hood, beneath fiber heat shielding and the hood would then become a large passive radiator.
Then, I woke up fully and realized that as the sun beat down on the hood, it could actually heat the water in the radiant tubes, especially on dark colored cars. Especially in Florida, Nevada, California, and the like.
Crap. Back to sleep.
Then, I woke up fully and realized that as the sun beat down on the hood, it could actually heat the water in the radiant tubes, especially on dark colored cars. Especially in Florida, Nevada, California, and the like.
Crap. Back to sleep.
Last edited by zenrx8; Oct 29, 2008 at 04:52 PM.