Bryan@BNR

Rear end or clutch slippage can do it too.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

How close is that to the outlet... will there be issues with Fix #2 at all?

Kane

iTrader: (1)

I don't see any reason why fix number 2 would not be doable with the new WG location.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Just seemed like the hose may be 'kinked' a little if the actuator was going to be that close to the outlet pipe, but hard to tell from pics

Kane

iTrader: (1)

It is hard to kink a silicone line, just be sure it is cut to the right size. I think from the pics it will be fine.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I put 'kinked' but what I really meant was Sharp angle off of the nipple... maybe I should have put "Kinky"?

c1oud

hrm so bryan are you gonna make the actuators for retail? I talked to you the other day and I ordered a garrett 600HP intercooler, would I be needing the actuator too?

Rocketman1976

That was a quick change, looks good to.

Is this is the bracket that comes with your upgrade?

Also are you guys affiliated with Rx7store? I wanted to get an idea of their level of experience with your upgrade.

Bryan@BNR

Alright I scrapped the last 2 brackets I fabricated up. First one was too low, second one was too high, this one is just right . I lowered the actuator 1 more inch so I could get rid of the bent actuator rod. This will make the brackets and actuators more repeatable when they are produced.

I am very satisfied with the newest bracket. It is very strong and doesn't deflect. Nothing is crowded at all. The actuator will be installer friendly.

I will have the drawings done up when I hear from the customer that it fits without complications.

Bryan@BNR

gregs

iTrader: (7)

bryan that bracket looks super sturdy, placement of the wastegate looks spot on, but the bracket coming from the outside may produce clearance issues with the wall of the car

here are some pictures of mine mounted, hope this helps:

gregs

iTrader: (7)

also is that turbo clocked diffently my wastegate bracket bolts get in the way when unbolting the bolts with the coolant barbs? can i slightly re-clock the compressor housing?

Bryan@BNR

well I placed the whole diaphram portion in front of the compressor housing. It isn't anywhere behind the compressor housing.

Can you measure the OD of the compressor housing to the body so I can get an idea about clearance?

Bryan@BNR

gregs

iTrader: (7)

no problem, ill jack up the car tomrrow afternoon

gregs

iTrader: (7)

btw: ill also measure the distance from the compressor housing and the engine mount as well thats another obstacle to look out for

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I can't believe that Brian is trying to make a bracket to fit without a car to try it on . It's so tight in around there that it could take any number of atempts to get it right this way ...

Bryan@BNR

I figured I had the room there atleast where the stock actuator sits for the bracket space. I thought it was on pretty good judgement.

BTW the bracket has to be done. If not the problem will prevail. It has been a major pain in the rear... But got to get it done!

Where the stock actuator goes, and where this bracket sticks out, the distance from the OD of the compressor housing and the bracket is 1 3/8" on one side and 1 5/8" on the other side. The stock actuator sticks out further than that... It would be nice to have a car though!

Bryan

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The main thing is to make the bracket adjustable, rotating along the same axis that the turbo is clocked.

Bryan@BNR

If you make the bracket loose, the adjustability will cause problems with the wastegate rod linkage. If the rod hits on the body of the diaphram it will cause drag on the rod. Then you will have all types of wierd problems. The exhaust housing is pinned, there is a pin in the compressor housing that locates the end housings. That makes every one of them clocked the exact same.

Your turbos are clocked which I can see reason for making the actuator brackets adjustable. But if I do it like that with these, it will cause all kinds of installer issue which I don't want...

Bryan

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You can actually move the actuator up and down about 5° on the compressor housing without having the rod drag.
You can gain even more (though it isn't needed) by slightly curving the mounting point and including wedge washers.

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

You say alot of **** about turbos like you know how to build and modify them, but I call BS. I dont think you have even HANDLED a turbo. Prove me wrong...

ETA: a picture so I can change my sig.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Post #914. There are at least 5 turbos in that pic. And my hand. And a buncha other sh*t.

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

I am just supposed to assume that is your hand? I must say, wipe off the grease and you might have been a hand model. Ever been contacted by breitling?

Any of those mine?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Yes.

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

Well, good.

/threadjack

Bryan@BNR

I have a few builds in the shop so I desided to draw the brackets up and have them cut out of stainless...

Bryan@BNR