Mazsport Ignition Solution!
When should I order this to expect it being deleiver before the 19 of April? Also I'm in Canada. I noticed that dealers can void your warranty over this since its the ignition portion. Is there any way to counter this, I mean if an issue did arise you could prove it wasn"t ignition related, is there any other way for a newbie to not have his engine warranty voided cause of this mod.
I'm going to a dyno day tomorrow and can post my dyno with current mods for any interested.
My car has only this ignition system, a K&N panel filter and RacingBeat flywheel for powertrain mods.
My rebuilt engine currently has about 2500 miles on it and I have the latest PCM flash from Mazda. I'll try to post up the chart tomorrow night.
My car has only this ignition system, a K&N panel filter and RacingBeat flywheel for powertrain mods.
My rebuilt engine currently has about 2500 miles on it and I have the latest PCM flash from Mazda. I'll try to post up the chart tomorrow night.
I'm going to a dyno day tomorrow and can post my dyno with current mods for any interested.
My car has only this ignition system, a K&N panel filter and RacingBeat flywheel for powertrain mods.
My rebuilt engine currently has about 2500 miles on it and I have the latest PCM flash from Mazda. I'll try to post up the chart tomorrow night.
My car has only this ignition system, a K&N panel filter and RacingBeat flywheel for powertrain mods.
My rebuilt engine currently has about 2500 miles on it and I have the latest PCM flash from Mazda. I'll try to post up the chart tomorrow night.
I think the torque improvement is what I feel the most and I would like to see if the curve has improved in the lower RPM's
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=824
the two grounds, the wire into the relay box, you did put the fuse in the plastic thingy in the harness??
I'm thinking I may have the coil wiring wrong - I'll check . someone at Mazsport numbered them And I just lined them up with my numbering as per the instructions ......
car seems to run fine
double checked wireing per Expos post - all good
Checked plug leads also - good
igniter grounded
don't know where else to look ....
car seems to run fine

double checked wireing per Expos post - all good
Checked plug leads also - good
igniter grounded
don't know where else to look ....
Last edited by Brettus; Mar 14, 2008 at 11:32 PM.
I'm thinking I may have the coil wiring wrong - I'll check . someone at Mazsport numbered them And I just lined them up with my numbering as per the instructions ......
car seems to run fine
double checked wireing per Expos post - all good
Checked plug leads also - good
igniter grounded
don't know where else to look ....
car seems to run fine

double checked wireing per Expos post - all good
Checked plug leads also - good
igniter grounded
don't know where else to look ....
I hate to ask this....and excuse my ignorance, but in NZ are you right or left hand drive? Not really sure it would make any difference.
Ummmm........like I said before, on those numbered connectors.......I did have a pin try and back out on me when I went to plug it in and I had to actually remove the pin, spread the little metal flange(?) and then put it back in. You might want to check that.
If the car runs fine, do you have a way to clear the CEL? Maybe they won't come back on?
What about that red wire that goes to the alternator wire......look good? Did you shrink wrap and heat up the shrink wrap on the unused wire? Make sure that's not shorted, but that shouldn't cause a coil CEL.
Ummmmm................a couple of posts up.............somewhere in here is a pretty good description of wiring, but let me say that if your old setup should have had the green coil wire(in the old harness still being used) going to the connector labeled #1. and one the other end, it should now go to the coil nearest the front of the car and use the last plug(end connector) on the "new" harness, does that make sense? That first coil, nearest the front of the car then goes to the front leading plug.
Expo1 had his backwards at one time and had hard start and backfire, so make sure you saw his updated one and didn't do what he did originally.
The hard part of thhis is that it runs fine, so I'm really leaning towards that the ECU/PCM just needs to be reset. Did you do try any of those?
Last edited by Mazurfer; Mar 15, 2008 at 08:12 AM.
We appreciate you patience and your continued support, Scott
Did that a couple of times and they came back .
Then I disconnected all the plugs and reconnected them (and triple checked them) . Codes have not come back after that , but need to take a longer drive to double check .
Then I disconnected all the plugs and reconnected them (and triple checked them) . Codes have not come back after that , but need to take a longer drive to double check .
Perhaps something was just connectively challenged Bret. Scott
thanks for all the suggestions Mazurfer .See above post - have my fingers crossed that Cel won't come back now.
I just returned from our dyno session today. So here it is. This was on a 4 wheel Mustang dyno at ~50 degrees F. Max power was 183 hp and max torque was 132 ft lbs. I'm not sure what's typical on a Mustang. I'm definitely in need of the Cobb Accessport.
The difference in these two runs was before and after pulling the ROOM fuse.
Mods:
K&N panel filter and Racingbeat Flywheel/ACT clutch. Otherwise stock intake and exhaust.
Two things I noted:
1) At idle on the dyno display the idle RPM was at 850 +-10rpm. Even when the fans or AC kicked on. Very nice.
2) My tach would read ~9700 RPM when the fuel cutoff cut in at the displayed RPM of 8950 on the Dyno display. That's quite a bit off on our tach at the upper end.
There weren't any other RX8s there to compare to so it's tough to say what a before/after would have showed for the ignition itself. Maybe someone else knows what stock on a Mustang dyno typically looks like.

The difference in these two runs was before and after pulling the ROOM fuse.
Mods:
K&N panel filter and Racingbeat Flywheel/ACT clutch. Otherwise stock intake and exhaust.
Two things I noted:
1) At idle on the dyno display the idle RPM was at 850 +-10rpm. Even when the fans or AC kicked on. Very nice.
2) My tach would read ~9700 RPM when the fuel cutoff cut in at the displayed RPM of 8950 on the Dyno display. That's quite a bit off on our tach at the upper end.
There weren't any other RX8s there to compare to so it's tough to say what a before/after would have showed for the ignition itself. Maybe someone else knows what stock on a Mustang dyno typically looks like.

Last edited by shaunv74; Mar 15, 2008 at 05:52 PM.
I'm assuming 'before pulling fuse' is the dashed line? Looks like you could gain a good bit by leaning out above 7000rpm. A reflash would do it. Otherwise you're showing no real gains from the ignition which (I guess) means your coils were in good shape already. Certainly doesn't look like the dyno on Mazsport's web site, does it?
Last edited by Spin9k; Mar 15, 2008 at 05:31 PM.
I'm assuming 'before pulling fuse' is the dashed line? Looks like you could gain a good bit by leaning out above 7000rpm. A reflash would do it. Otherwise you're showing no real gains from the ignition which (I guess) means your coils were in good shape already. Certainly doesn't look like the dyno on Mazsport's web site, does it?
Yes. To be clear both runs have the new ignition system. So this graph does not show an ignition system comparison. You can't really say from this graph by itself if I have gained anything from the ignition system or not.
The only difference is pulling the ROOM fuse. So if I'm getting 182-183 on a Mustang dyno and others are getting that on more liberal dynos...
My Plugs have about 2500 miles on them. They are about 9 months old.
Last edited by shaunv74; Mar 15, 2008 at 05:53 PM.


