If you have large hands it might be a bit of a knuckle buster. Removing the intake box & tube helps. Please also read the directions a few times.

 

Did it work? Maybe I'm a bit rusty on some of these Mind Tricks...

 

Its not really that hard to install but it will take some time, they say 1 hr but thats doubtful unless you work on these cars every day. Definitely remove the air box. In the pictures they have the throttle body and airbox removed which might be why it took them 1 hr, not to mention they have a hydraulic lift.

To get to the #3, & 4 spark plug wires you will have to jack the car up unless your a 100 lb Asian guy with tiny hands and long arms. Even with jacking it up, if your hands are wide it is difficult to to squeeze your hand into the access area. Be sure to read the entire paragraph in the instructions before you start doing what it says. I missed a step here and there and had to go back twice because I did not do that.

 

When it came time to do the wires I just removed the Ft drivers side wheel and had no problems.

 

Same here.

 

Yeah....I was changing plugs at the same time so taking the wheel off was a no-brainer for me. Plus it gave me a chance to inspect that side of the suspension etc. for anything loose.


BTW....why do people say you need a wobble socket for the plugs? Did I just have the right couple sizes of extensions or were these people getting them from the top and needed the wobble?

 

Hmm... wish I knew more about my car before working on it, learn something new every day on here. Thanks guys that will come in handy when I change the plugs...

I have a dealer maintenance service plan so I haven't been doing the routine maintenance on my car myself, which can be bad when it comes to having knowledge to help when doing upgrades.

 

EXPO 1!

Are you REALLY BEETLEJUICE??????
IF YOU ARE MAAAAN IM A BIG FAN

I SEEN YA IN SCARY MOVIE!

"this is yo brain on drugs"

MAAAAAN halarious. IM a FAN!

 

Those few minutes in Scary Movie paid for my 8. Easy works beats getting tossed around in bars. http://www.jollydwarf.com/

He IS as bad as Can!

 

No - try it again

 

Umm.. mines coming soon!

 

He promised mine this week, and there is only one more day...

 

Nope...sorry............technically there is two left and they do deliver on Saturdays.
But here's hoping you get them tomorrow though!

 

Scott, I can't wait for mine. Maybe skip me in line for someone who CAN wait?

 

I like your resume video, the wrestling stuff was pretty funny, punching him in the *****, lol.

 

OK -just heard they are in customs . Won't get till next Tuesday though

Plan on doing some before and after Scanalyser runs (tuned and untuned)showing diff if AFRs and acceleration (if any)

 

Does anyone else notice it seems a little harder to start your car? It starts everytime, it just spins the motor a few more times than it used to.

I may just need new plugs I have 20k miles on these.

 

Does your exhaust pop more also?? I had the connectors backwards, the ones that go to the new coils. It took longer to start and popped more.

 

When you say pop more do you mean a little bit more, where you really have to pay attention, or very noticably more? I have my stock cats on for now so I don't know if that would make it where you can't even tell if it is popping.

I'm going to try that oem PCM trouble shoot.

 

If you look at pic 16, 21a, or 21b in the instructions you can pretty clearly see that the end connector in the "new" wire loom goes to the first coil(towards the front of the vehicle)....this used to be #1(with the green wire in the old set) and ends up as the FL(front leading) plug.
I'm not ragging on you here Expo1, but you had these backwards? I know what you said above, but.........What did it run like?

Dave

 

I had mine like the 3rd photo of post #455 of this thread. The "last" connector was on the last coil. The car took longer to start, needed a little gas in fact to catch. Once running acceleration seemed ok, but whenever I would lift of the throttle it would pop (backfire) much more than it used to. I spoke to Scott and had me DBL check how I wired it and I found my error. Things are fine now.

Mike

 

Cool.........just curious. I'm off to go look at that pic, but I can see how it could happen.

 

It's pretty crazy that it would even run, if you put plug wires in reverse on a piston engine there is no chance in hell you can start it, and if by some miracle it did start, it would shake like crazy and stall as soon as you tried to drive.

I know I have them on in order of longest at #1 and they go back in order from there.

I don't know if I am just being paranoid but I do feel a slight stutter at idle and the tach moves probably about 50 rpms and thats not a typo I did mean 50. Similar to what a slight misfire feels like in a piston engine, I can't remember if it did that before or if it is new so I don't know if it even matters. If anyone can shed some light on it I would appreciate it.

 

Well.........yeah, I'll give ya that........most vehicles I'm use to...........you would absolutely know if you had the wrong order!


Anyway, I'm sure you thought of all these, but if not.

Take a look at:

1.) Both grounds are cleanly attached?

2.) If you removed accordian and/or intake to do the install, make sure all is seated well and all clamps are back on correctly. Maybe the MAF is getting incorrect readings due to an air leak?

3.) I had a pin try to back out of one of the "new" connectors where it plugs into the OEM ones, so check that. You can see this because as I started to plug it in, the wire would move(back out) and you could see the pin coming out of the connector.

4.) all plug wires on securely at the plugs?

5.) That spade lug on the alternator wire good and secure....not loose?

Can't really think of much else at the moment.

This morning, I'll go and let mine warm up before a drive, and since I have the scanguage II hooked up, I'll report my RPM's at cold start up, then both the water temp and RPM's at idle once warmed up. Let see what that says.

 

Its not really at cold start, I notice it when I am sitting at a light and it is so minute that it is hard to notice, the tach needle just barely moves, it bumps up a tiny bit.

I am going to check my intake tube because a very slight leak would make sense, especially because you can't notice anything under acceleration.