Hoss -05's build thread
05-14-2011, 01:46 PM
#151
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lol yessir i do have a borla...i somehow manged to forget to tell you that...
i really like the sound man....its pretty deep and at idle, its pretty quiet (due to the turbo most likely), then it screams when you get on it...thought that probably has to do with the open w/g
We def need to talk more when i head into K-town. You somewhere super top secret right now?
i really like the sound man....its pretty deep and at idle, its pretty quiet (due to the turbo most likely), then it screams when you get on it...thought that probably has to do with the open w/g
We def need to talk more when i head into K-town. You somewhere super top secret right now?
05-14-2011, 02:46 PM
#153
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im DEF movin next month 
so you bet im rollin through...OoOOoo...and have been discussing some intercooler mounting options with the guys at T-blown... you may have some interesting thoughts on the matter. i'll pm you with details.
so you bet im rollin through...OoOOoo...and have been discussing some intercooler mounting options with the guys at T-blown... you may have some interesting thoughts on the matter. i'll pm you with details.
05-14-2011, 08:36 PM
#154
Ok Hoss--here is the stuff about my Motor mounts
1- the engine mount under stress can actually bend some and develop an outward slant. may not be enough to worry about) just note that you may want to check yours.
2- the metal receptacle for the mm bolt (about 1 1/4 to one and half inch long) is mounted into the upper part(duh) and that top part of the mount is solid rubber.. It is soft, slightly compresses using just my hands. The 1st top metal ring of the mm is where it stops.
3- what surprised me was after you clean the mount out of all the oil and plastic stuff it seems that it is just as firm as was before. If there IS a difference its very slight. WTH? I dont get that.
4-- The mount will clean out very well leaving a nice smooth cavity for any polyurethane. if you want to do a poly fill you will still have that top part of solid rubber--this could be a good thing.
Now to clean out the MM just do it from the bottom, open it up and rip it all out.
The upside down christmas tree thing? Ok get a drill and drill through it (dont touch the inside threads--be careful.) Thes allows the use of a bolt that reaches down into the poly that you will put inside the reamed out MM.
Now get the proper length/size bolt with a couple of large washers and large nut and position it into the mm so that the nut and washers are approx 1/2 the way down into the poly--once it is filled. Secure it as best you can.
Then fill the mount with the poly of your choice--i used 3M window wield stuff.
Make sure that when you fill it no airpockets are present--do it slowly and carfully----and wear gloves--that crap is nasty and it will not wash off.
Leave the bolt/nut washer in it as it dries (it will take about 3 days!). It takes a long time to dry because it is so thick.
Once it is dry the bolt can be removed. the poly will hold the washers and nut in place
There you have it.
Now if you only do one mount and not both then the engine will set crooked. So you will have to add a spacer under the oem mount to straighten it up.
Kane has been running these for a while also.
1- the engine mount under stress can actually bend some and develop an outward slant. may not be enough to worry about) just note that you may want to check yours.
2- the metal receptacle for the mm bolt (about 1 1/4 to one and half inch long) is mounted into the upper part(duh) and that top part of the mount is solid rubber.. It is soft, slightly compresses using just my hands. The 1st top metal ring of the mm is where it stops.
3- what surprised me was after you clean the mount out of all the oil and plastic stuff it seems that it is just as firm as was before. If there IS a difference its very slight. WTH? I dont get that.
4-- The mount will clean out very well leaving a nice smooth cavity for any polyurethane. if you want to do a poly fill you will still have that top part of solid rubber--this could be a good thing.
Now to clean out the MM just do it from the bottom, open it up and rip it all out.
The upside down christmas tree thing? Ok get a drill and drill through it (dont touch the inside threads--be careful.) Thes allows the use of a bolt that reaches down into the poly that you will put inside the reamed out MM.
Now get the proper length/size bolt with a couple of large washers and large nut and position it into the mm so that the nut and washers are approx 1/2 the way down into the poly--once it is filled. Secure it as best you can.
Then fill the mount with the poly of your choice--i used 3M window wield stuff.
Make sure that when you fill it no airpockets are present--do it slowly and carfully----and wear gloves--that crap is nasty and it will not wash off.
Leave the bolt/nut washer in it as it dries (it will take about 3 days!). It takes a long time to dry because it is so thick.
Once it is dry the bolt can be removed. the poly will hold the washers and nut in place
There you have it.
Now if you only do one mount and not both then the engine will set crooked. So you will have to add a spacer under the oem mount to straighten it up.
Kane has been running these for a while also.
05-18-2011, 01:56 AM
#155
^------------ Nice write up OD! Thank you. I should not have a problem with any bending of the stock mounts as I will be using new OEM ones to do the mod.
On another note, I got a little bit of feed back from Speedy 33 on his install. It sounds like he has been having lots of problems and will report more when he gets a chance. One of the problems he has has is the outlet pipe from his SC has melted his wiring harness a bit. I have a plan to combat that problem in the works.
I will be getting my intercooler and piping coated. On the intercooler they will be using a special heat dispersion coating. Some report a 15-30% increase in efficiency of there coated IC's. On the hot piping from the IC I will be using some sort of thermal barrier coating. I will also be using a "cold air intake" blanket on the piping from the intercooler in the engine bay.
I thought about having the SC unit coated as well but worry about its internal oil temps.
The shop doing the work is the same shop that coats all of the stuff for Corky Bell and is well regarded in the LS community. They do a ton of aerospace stuff as well.
On another note, I got a little bit of feed back from Speedy 33 on his install. It sounds like he has been having lots of problems and will report more when he gets a chance. One of the problems he has has is the outlet pipe from his SC has melted his wiring harness a bit. I have a plan to combat that problem in the works.
I will be getting my intercooler and piping coated. On the intercooler they will be using a special heat dispersion coating. Some report a 15-30% increase in efficiency of there coated IC's. On the hot piping from the IC I will be using some sort of thermal barrier coating. I will also be using a "cold air intake" blanket on the piping from the intercooler in the engine bay.
I thought about having the SC unit coated as well but worry about its internal oil temps.
The shop doing the work is the same shop that coats all of the stuff for Corky Bell and is well regarded in the LS community. They do a ton of aerospace stuff as well.
05-18-2011, 08:16 AM
#156
sounds great.
Remember that SC's demand a cool air intake--you cant draw air from just under the hood and have good results.
You are right about not coating the supercharger itself
If you look at my engine build thread you will see how I fabbed up a way of getting cool air to that side of the engine and what I did to help evacuate engine bay heat.
You can add a heat barrier to the oil supply line that runs close to the s.c. and that does help just a little.
Other than the exhaust header that alternator is the hottest part of the engine.
Do yall move the ignition coils?
Remember that SC's demand a cool air intake--you cant draw air from just under the hood and have good results.
You are right about not coating the supercharger itself
If you look at my engine build thread you will see how I fabbed up a way of getting cool air to that side of the engine and what I did to help evacuate engine bay heat.
You can add a heat barrier to the oil supply line that runs close to the s.c. and that does help just a little.
Other than the exhaust header that alternator is the hottest part of the engine.
Do yall move the ignition coils?
05-18-2011, 10:12 AM
#157
The throttle body wiring runs right next to the alternator so that will get Lots of thermal wrap.
The Ignition Coils are moved in the kit but not far. It will be interesting to see if any alterations will need to be made to the BHR kit.
I will figure out something for the intake as well.
The Ignition Coils are moved in the kit but not far. It will be interesting to see if any alterations will need to be made to the BHR kit.
I will figure out something for the intake as well.
06-06-2011, 08:32 AM
#159
just reroute the TB harness? Take your harness apart and reoute the ignition coils also? Dont forget to get rid of that damn oem pigtail ground and run a proper ground for the coils.
Nice gauge set up, why is there a fan in the glovebox?
Those chassis bracing is going to cause noticeable nvh, talk to juan on the Pettit thread as he install the same on his car. He did some things to help with that. I think he was wanting to skin alligators (lives in Florida) when he ran over them
Nice to see some progress dude.
Nice gauge set up, why is there a fan in the glovebox?
Those chassis bracing is going to cause noticeable nvh, talk to juan on the Pettit thread as he install the same on his car. He did some things to help with that. I think he was wanting to skin alligators (lives in Florida) when he ran over them
Nice to see some progress dude.
06-06-2011, 09:24 AM
#160
Fan is there to reduce heat. The gauge sensor units are just the start. I wanted to make sure things stayed cool for future use. If I find I dont need the fan I will simply disconnect it.
I am expecting further NVH but am ok with that. I think these extra pick up points are key. One thing that I am worried about OD is if the trans brace will fit with the 09 tranny.
I am expecting further NVH but am ok with that. I think these extra pick up points are key. One thing that I am worried about OD is if the trans brace will fit with the 09 tranny.
06-06-2011, 09:51 AM
#161
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
The way the PLX modules hook up daisy chained is great. The only downside is that I wish I had just used 3m double sided tape to mount them together because the way they slide together is a PIA, very poor design there, but at least i know they are not going to separate 
Oh, and you are right on the NVH OD
Oh, and you are right on the NVH OD
06-06-2011, 02:10 PM
#163
06-07-2011, 08:30 AM
#164
So after talking with 9k a bit I have decided against coating the oil pan... now one thing that worries me is driving on and off government facility's. Often when driving onto these places they check the underside of your car and what will they see when they look under mine... a metal box. 
06-08-2011, 12:51 AM
#167
Just write these words backwards "this is not a bomb" on the oil pan .
Problem solved .
Problem solved .
Ill have a daily driver for sure but I will most likely keep both registered with the site for the O **** just in case. + Cool photo ops. I may not even be able to take it onto some of these places due to the Huge speed bumps.
I'm still looking for a DD want to spend under 12k but may be willing to fudge on that limit for something Just right. I want it to be able to fit two kids and a large dog.
Last edited by hoss -05; 06-08-2011 at 01:01 AM.
06-08-2011, 09:00 AM
#168
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Yeah that would work out well...
Ill have a daily driver for sure but I will most likely keep both registered with the site for the O **** just in case. + Cool photo ops. I may not even be able to take it onto some of these places due to the Huge speed bumps.
I'm still looking for a DD want to spend under 12k but may be willing to fudge on that limit for something Just right. I want it to be able to fit two kids and a large dog.
Ill have a daily driver for sure but I will most likely keep both registered with the site for the O **** just in case. + Cool photo ops. I may not even be able to take it onto some of these places due to the Huge speed bumps.
I'm still looking for a DD want to spend under 12k but may be willing to fudge on that limit for something Just right. I want it to be able to fit two kids and a large dog.
Are you planning to impregnate someone and buy them a big dog?
06-24-2011, 08:39 AM
#172
I have a 09 rx8 R3 salvage that is cosmetically and mechanically perfect. 9.7K miles on it.
I had it inspected for titlement in Ga and it passed. Waiting on the title. It decided out of the blue to stop running. ecu not getting power to 2 out of 3 pins. Of course starter will not engage. Trying to trace it down but it is a pita. If you will take it not running ( i have a vid of when it was running) we can talk a deal?
Jack and Ash are helping me a lot with the wiring tracing. I will never be known as "Sparky".
OD
I had it inspected for titlement in Ga and it passed. Waiting on the title. It decided out of the blue to stop running. ecu not getting power to 2 out of 3 pins. Of course starter will not engage. Trying to trace it down but it is a pita. If you will take it not running ( i have a vid of when it was running) we can talk a deal?
Jack and Ash are helping me a lot with the wiring tracing. I will never be known as "Sparky".
OD