adrian-1

Also, if installing a BOV or catchcan (not included with the kit) here's those hoses.

Connect the BOV hose to the greddy pressure sensor hose using a T-fitting.
Connect the catchcan inline to the oil filler pipe and air intake pipe.

rkostolni

I am almost done with the install but I have a few questions.

1. With the VFAD hose that connects to the pressure sensor, does it matter if the white (check) valve is removed? I left it on.
2. How in the world does the ECU fit back in its box once you connect the emanage harness? Here's a pic of what I have and there's no way its fitting back in that box!
3. Where is it in the airinx that everyone is placing the metal screens from the old intake?
4. The metal fitting that scews into the arinx for the jet air fuel line just plain doesn't fit in that hole. It is slightly too big. Did anyone else have that problem?

Thanks in advance,
Ryan

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You must remove the check valve.

v300

iTrader: (1)

I noticed that the E-01 and the e-Manage from the turbo kit both come with the same pressure sensor. If I am going to run both the e-Manage and the E-01 do I install 2 pressure senors or is there a way to split the signals??? In the meantime I have the valve (boost controller) between the actuator and the intake manifold port while the E-01 is not turned on.

v300

iTrader: (1)

In the intakeremoval.jpg which one of the three circled in red is the jet air fuel mixing tube???

v300

iTrader: (1)

Here's another one... on the factory intake VFAD it attached to a canister below the factory airbox. Do I reattach that to the pressure sensor?

adrian-1

1. I removed it.
2. You will have to take out the black plastic piece plus metal clamps and dremel the end facing the cabin. (pic included)
3. Philodox "glued" the 2 screens from the stock intake to the greddy airnix. (see pic) I replaced the airnix with a K&N filter and no need for the screens. K&N thread here.
4. Mine barely fit. Just crank on it. One full turn is enough to get it to stay.

adrian-1

I do not have the E-01 so I do not know.

adrian-1

See the next picture. It says the jet air fuel mixing hose has a white line at the end and will need to be extended to reach the intake.

adrian-1

No , the black canister is removed. The pressure sensor is connected to the nipple directly behind the throttle body.

v300

iTrader: (1)

Adrian;

Thanks so much for guiding me this far. For me this has been a Memorial Day project in my garage. I am almost done.

As for the tubes, I finally understand why you drew in those color lines... because the factory already marked it. I just had to wipe of the dirt and grease to see it.

Regarding the black canister; I removed it but there is a green sensor that is still attached to it. I was wondering if I should circulate the green sensor with the pressure sensor?

Cross my finger... my car should run anytime now. :D

Speedrx8er

NICE, you'll love the your new MOD. As for the Green sensor, It'll work with or without it.

adrian-1

Do not connect the green sensor with the pressure sensor.
It is not used, but I left it plugged in with the nipple left open. I wasn't sure if the computer would see it was disconnected (open signal) and then cause problems. Others have taken it out and they had no issues.

rkostolni

Well I'm done! Went to start it and battery was dead. Bit of a problem considering I'm doing this install in a storage facility. Not the best idea by the way. The owner knows I'm up to something and has questioned me twice. He actually lives in the main office right next to the gate you have to go through to enter. Good thing I'm pretty much done. I think he'd flip if he opened the door and saw the little shop I have going. I had to tap into his electic lines for light and power tools!
I'll charge the battery tonight and give it a shot tomorrow.

One question. I believe the ECU fuse is labeled EGI comp 1 and EGI comp 2 in the fuse compartment under the hood. Can someone verify this is the right one to temporarily remove.

Thanks,
Ryan

v300

iTrader: (1)

Relating to the top reply by rkostolni.

There are actually three EGI fuse. EGI comp and EGI comp2 as well as a large light blue one that just says EGI. Which one do we remove? Pertaining to the ECU fuse, is it recommended that we remove this fuse everytime we lose power or take off the battery?

adrian-1

The instructions say to remove "the ECM" fuse and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. They want to get oil through the turbo before starting up the engine.

I didn't remove any fuse because I wasn't sure which one they were talking about (anybody else know?). I just started her up and let it idle for a few minutes, and looked for oil leaks. Also recheck the oil level since it should have gone down alittle.

As long as you do not rev it immediately after starting the engine you'll be fine.

Silverarrow

Well, when i put my turbo kit in, all i had to do was do the "de-flooding" procedure. Just hold the pedal all the way to the floor and crank the engine. This cuts the fuel and will have the same effect as removing the ecm fuse. Got around to reinstalling the stock engine cover today over the top of the turbo and i must say that it is a bit quieter (which i like). Still cutting/trimming around the new strut bar and need to reattach some excess material cut from my k&N intake shield but install definitely looks much cleaner that way.

Spyder_doo

How do you go about installing the BOV and where is the best place to put it? I'm going to be purchasing this kit next week so I wan to go ahead and having everything else that I need. What's the best BOV to use? Plus is there anything on this list that I need in order to produce more power out of the Greddy kit?

BOV (not sure which one)
Greddy Profec B Spec II
Catch Can
CanScan software
Colder Plugs
?Anything else?

Thanks,
Jamie

v300

iTrader: (1)

...hahaha... done! My car definitely drives like a true sportscar with the missing "umph" factor. Is it me or when after a long drive, the factory air pump/air control valve (or in that general area rather) tends to stay on for a while after the ignition is cut. I don't remember my stock car running longer than a minute...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I presume you mean the evaporative system pump, which is in the back near the fuel tank.
It is normal for that to run at different intervals depending on the way the car was driven.

If your air pump (under the hood, next to the passenger-side strut tower brace mount) is running after you drive, you have a real problem.

papajoey79

Why do you have a real problem? Mine does that everytime I shut the car off? I hear some electric motor start running for about 10 seconds after I shuttoff the car? My car needs some serious attention from someone that know's what there doing.....this is soo frustrating!

Joey

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Ugh. Did you read what I posted?

papajoey79

yes, thats why I asked cause you didn't post a reason...Don't answer a question with a question, it doesn't make you look intelligent!

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

OK, Einstein. I will quote myself and lets see if you can score higher on the reading comprehension part of the test.

Now - what is running for 10 seconds after you turn your car off?

papajoey79

The Air Pump.......I thought you knew what I was asking but you must of failed out of mind reading class seeing that I didn't tell you the Air Pump!! I do that alot...I just want my car to run better or like everyone elses