Greddy turbo install help
 

I will be doing the Greddy turbo kit install in a week. I will have access to a shop with a lift and a couple of mechanics to help that have done a few turbo installs on miatas.
I've gone over the instructions and everything is clear, EXCEPT for connecting the vacuum lines. Can anyone that has installed the kit give further details.

Specifically section 3-5 Airinx Installation, steps 7 and 8.
Also, section 3-7 emanage/ vac hose connection, step 5.

The full instructions can be found here.

EDIT: Also check mazdamaniac's 3 fixes thread here.

THANK YOU! this thread needeed to happen for so many (like me ) will be installing a greddy in the next few weeks. i cant answer your questions but someone can!\
good luck! well be watching...

good luck because i installed it myself, well try. and iam stuck right now

What step are you stuck at?

in that first snippet you posted i don't think that picture of the oil pump has ANYTHING to do with their instructions. If anyone has a problem, post it here, i will try to help.

The pictues kindof jump around. The metering oil pump is for step 7 of the middle picture. "Connect the air hose from the Oil Metering Pump to suction pipe S-1 and connect the Jet Air Fuel Mixing sir hose to the fitting on the Airnix using provided hose fitting and 9o hose."

There are several air hoses on that pump.

iam stuck with the down pipe is like almost the last step

They're double sided threads right? You've got them in backwards. The shorter ends go in first. The longer ends stick out so the nuts will fit.
Don't know where you can find extra ones.

The double threaded screws are circled in red. There's a short and long end. The short ends go into the turbo, and the long ends stick out allowing more room for the downpipe adapter to fit.

i gues iam goin to try and get some from home depot today i did not have no time

adrian

What day are you installing your turbo, I live here in Austin and wanted to stop buy and see the kit in person.

florida

colin204, I pm'd you.

Well, the shop that's letting me use their lift had to reschedule it until next weekend. I was bored and decided to do some of the easier parts of the install yesterday. I put in the intercooler and cut the plastic under cover to make room for the intercooler piping. I also routed the boost gauge sensor through the firewall and wired the power to it. The emanage is in the glovebox and the wiring harness is sitting in the engine bay til next week.

A quick note on the intercooler brackets. You will have to bend them to get the intercooler to sit low in the correct position. I used some pliers and bent the bracket while it was screwed down. You then screw it into the other hole and bend that side. see pic.



I also checked out the intake hoses and found out which ones the instructions are taking about. (I used philodox's old picture to point out the hoses)

Section 3-5, step 7... metering oil pump hose and jet air fuel mixing hose are circled in red. follow them to find out which is which. The metering oil pump hose goes into 1 of the nipples on the new intake pipe. The air fuel mixing hose connects to a fitting on the air filter.
The other nipple is connected to the oil filler pipe, 3-5 step 8.

Section 3-7, step 7... vfad hose, circled in blue, will be removed with old intake box. you connect a blue hose where it used to be, right behind the throttle body, to the pressure sensor thats connected to the emanage.

Here's the rubber plug for Section 3-7, step 5. "Remove the rubber plug on the intake manifold and connect a vacuum hose from this port to the actuator on the turbo.
It's on the passenger side of the intake manifold. I'm not sure if it matters which one you use.

EDIT: ACTUALLY DO NOT USE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD PORT. CHECK MAZDAMANIACS FIX #2 HERE.
You will need to tap into the outlet pipe of the turbo and connect it there instead. Driveability will be greatly improved and turbo will last longer.

OK...I'm all wrapped up, and down to the one last pervasive issue.

That dang oil pressure switch.

I bought a set of crows foot wrenches, but the one that would fit won't clear the area...too tight towards the bellhousing. And, being so big, it was a fuss just getting it in there.

C'mon guys...what's the secret?;)

Adrian....You spoke about clearance issues with the intercooler and the mounting brackets, are there any other clearance issues with the intercooler and the stock front bumper and appearance package? Most of the turbo set-ups I've seen have been with the MS front bumper setup....

When I was looking at it the other day, I detached the sensor plug and tried to fit a 22mm deep socket I had onto it. The black sensor attachment still didn't allow me to get a bite on it. Maybe a 22mm "deeper" socket.
I was thinking a crows foot should work. Did you unscrew the bracket holding the clutch hose. It looks to be in the way and should give you some room to work with.

I believe Fanman posted he had to trim some of the inside of the front bumper because it would bulge out with the intercooler in place. I didn't have that problem, but I believe it's because he placed his intercooler too low.
I'll try to post pics of his vs mine later.

The other clearance issues was a plastic air inlet tube that was in the way and prevented the intercooler to be installed. I think the plastic air inlet lets in air to the pcm box. I cut it above where the intercooler would sit, so it should still let air in. I believe philodox did the same. Here's his picture showing the trimmed plastic piece in red.

Also, the instructions tell you to turn the auxililary temp switch 180 degrees to make room for the intercooler. You can see it in the 2nd picture I posted earlier of the intercooler. It's hanging in front of the intercooler on the right side of the picture.

Mine has the appearance package (a.k.a - front air dam). It is a tight fit, but the placement of the intercooler clears everything just fine.

OOO you are all so lucky:) congrats to all on the turbo's adn good luck finishing up the installs:D

Turbo is in!
My thoughts on installing the kit with the car on jackstands/ramps.... is don't do it. You really need a lift to get it in. Took me, 3 friends, and a mazda master mechanic about 7hrs to get it in at a shop with a lift. Turbo area is very cramped for space. If you do use jackstands, I'd say 3 to 4 days to get it in, especially getting that engine mount in/out.

The car feels good. It definitely needs a BOV and I'll be installing it in the next couple of days. No CEL, started on first try, idle is good and steady.

Pictures below show some of the install.

Greddy oilpan............
I put in the greddy oilpan which is available now thru rx8garage.net, holds more oil and has a extra drain hole. Notice the hollow area in the new pan vs the old pan. Also, it does hang lower but still above some other components in the car.

Oil pressure sensor T fitting............
You'll need a deep 24mm socket to get it off, not the 22mm that was mentioned earlier. Make sure to use teflon tape and that all are on tight. Also, loosen the clutch line bracket to have room to work.

Airpump gasket............
Use the stock gasket (as philodox mentioned) and not the greddy one. The hole on the greddy one is too small. See pic.

Last note, if your in the Austin, TX area and want a shop with experience installing the kit and a mazda master mechanic, go to John and Corky's automotive specialists in Roundrock. http://www.jcautospec.com/home.html Car started on the first try and had no leaks or problems.

Greddy oilpan

oil pressure t fitting , oil return, and oil pan out

airpump gasket and misc pics
I will install my MS strut bar later tonight.