Esmeril Racing 20b conversion kit/guide....testing the waters!
#76
You Dumbass!!!
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 719
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chris, this thread leads me to believe that you feel that the Renesis in current form is maxing out at 500 to mid 550's? Any plans to address that first and push it further or is that all she wrote?
#79
Again, an engine swap is not for everyone...but if its what you are looking for then it should be easier than what it is now...a turbocharged 450whp renesis is not for everyone either, it is very "kick in the pants" as compared to other engines of the same power and some people love that very characteristic but others would rather have the power without the "impact"....as some call it .
As for whether more than 550whp is possible on a renesis, I am sure it is. We are limited by the location/shape of the exhaust ports but that aside, I don't see why it wouldn't be doable. Is it something that would be fun on the street, of course, it would be a hoot...is it something you would want to drive to work every day, to some yes, to others not so much. You will probably have spent as much as it would have taken you to swap a single turbo 20b in with a kit like what I am suggesting by the time you reach that problem of going above 550whp on a renesis, specially if you are paying to get stuff fabricated/welded. I did it, and with good reason, I wanted to research the engine and that is fine, but some people aren't into that.
Best regards,
Chris
#85
Rob gonzalez
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Naranjito, Puerto Rico
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeahh 20b Power for few good mens!!!
Looks for how its sound and burn the tires!!
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMXHhESP9Y0
Looks for how its sound and burn the tires!!
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMXHhESP9Y0
Last edited by rgonza; 09-29-2009 at 08:58 PM.
#87
Registered Toker
iTrader: (2)
Honestly Chris I just dont think they'll be any profit for you. If the enthusiasts really want a 20b swap, they'll find a way to do it. If not, they'll just go FI.
As its already been stated; no matter how cheap your package will be, the customer would me dumping $10k or more from the getgo.
The idea sounds good on paper but I just dont think it'd be worth it
As its already been stated; no matter how cheap your package will be, the customer would me dumping $10k or more from the getgo.
The idea sounds good on paper but I just dont think it'd be worth it
#88
NO A/C :(
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#89
The first time it was probably a direct result of lack of proper tuning (no Wideband at the time) and the EMU which is what I was using at the time and it is known to vary the tune on its own. So there was nothing much I could do...cracked apex seal.
After that I was still on the stock seals at about 15-16psi on pump gas but with the Int-X, on engine this I pulled the 366whp at 13psi and later the 414whp run. One day after work I was low on fuel and I forgot and punched it while empty and it pulled air into the pump and it made a weird sound and then it backfired...I still drove it home but I could tell it was leaking a little bit of oil....right after it happened I noticed I was below the E on the fuel gauge and I stopped for fuel just down the road from where it happened....I had to add oil twice on the way home and it was hard to restart at the gas station so I knew something was wrong...cracked front iron and apex seal had gone
After this last break I installed the prototype apex seals, dowel pinned the engine and never had an engine failure due to boost/detonation or too much power. It did detonate a few times and ran lean a few times also with no issues and at high boost levels for about a year. The same engine also underwent the switch to E-85 and it was ran for more than a year more on the corn stuff until last winter.
The only reason I pulled the engine a 3rd time was because it sucked a piece of gasket paper that somehow ended up in the engine causing one rotor to read low on compression because the gasket paper got cut into a million pieces (almost a puree of rubber paper) and wedged the apex seals into their slots. This gasket paper was from the new custom intake manifold I had made over the winter, it would've ran on the same engine from more than 2 years but since I had to pull it, I went ahead and experimented bridging the irons and that is what is in there now...remind me never to use cheap gasket paper...anywhere...I now used aluminum gaskets that I made myself, problem solved
Best regards,
Chris
Last edited by ChrisRX8PR; 10-01-2009 at 10:09 PM.
#90
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Most of the FI converts on here are praying they don't blow because they can't afford a rebuild and if it happens they'll be selling everything off and going back to NA - read the stories, plenty of them posted here if you search.
#92
Honestly Chris I just dont think they'll be any profit for you. If the enthusiasts really want a 20b swap, they'll find a way to do it. If not, they'll just go FI.
As its already been stated; no matter how cheap your package will be, the customer would me dumping $10k or more from the getgo.
The idea sounds good on paper but I just dont think it'd be worth it
As its already been stated; no matter how cheap your package will be, the customer would me dumping $10k or more from the getgo.
The idea sounds good on paper but I just dont think it'd be worth it
I think a couple of you are getting the wrong idea here. I think a 20b kit would be an excellent idea and here's why. This kit wouldn't be for cost savings or a means of making a 20b swap cheaper in the context you would all be thinking. Believe me, Chris would make his money. This is a baller kit, pure and simple.
If you want a badass RX8 you go FI there's no debate about that. However, if you want a show stopping, pantie dropping car then you put a 20b in it.
The purpose of this kit would be to take all the major crap work out of the mix. The large amount of fabrication and time that is necesary to make this swap means serious time and effort not to mention the money.
A much smaller example would be the BHR ignition kit. Overpriced? I would argue not but we do make our money on it. So why do people buy it? Because we've managed to take all the guess work out of building your own. There have been several DIY types on this board who after spending a lot of time and money on their own kit finally either bought ours or stated they wish they had.
Our kit involved sourcing the coils for a good price, fabbing a bracket that fits the stock location and that looks good, fabbing brackets for the coils, building a plug and play harness and then finally making your own plug wires with the LS2 connectors.
Or you could just drop the cash and get it done for you and you can simply enjoy the benefits of the kit.
Same deal here. I'm sure there are people out there with the $$$ to drop and they would rather enjoy their 20b powered RX8 rather than slaving over their car and getting frustrated with the project.
#93
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canada, UAE, Philippines.
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i wouldnt say your coils are not overpriced at all..it transforms the car!!!
i bought a set of Okada plazmas for $750 plus delivery one burnt out first engine start, the 3 went by itself later on without the khs, dli2
so far ive got over 2k on your coils in 40+C very high humidity, and 9k each time no issues. anyways thats another thread?!
anyways Chris i dont know how well it will take off but it sounds great, in my opionion 2-4 rotors would be awsome,
if it was possible to make it handle all 3 styles you would be gold. but my suggestion is wait for a 16x?
because thats a route i might take in the future over the 2-4 rew's
anyways thats my 2 cents im fairly new to rotories only have about 5 year and 50k invenvested in them ive always been a big block dodge kind of guy, but im old school?!
i bought a set of Okada plazmas for $750 plus delivery one burnt out first engine start, the 3 went by itself later on without the khs, dli2
so far ive got over 2k on your coils in 40+C very high humidity, and 9k each time no issues. anyways thats another thread?!
anyways Chris i dont know how well it will take off but it sounds great, in my opionion 2-4 rotors would be awsome,
if it was possible to make it handle all 3 styles you would be gold. but my suggestion is wait for a 16x?
because thats a route i might take in the future over the 2-4 rew's
anyways thats my 2 cents im fairly new to rotories only have about 5 year and 50k invenvested in them ive always been a big block dodge kind of guy, but im old school?!
Last edited by Talic; 10-03-2009 at 02:18 AM.
#94
You will most likely have dudes creaming their pants, which doesn't really appeal to me.
#97
NO A/C :(
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Due to engine breakage?, 2 times.... (I am not counting stupidty....read the last paragraph :/)
The first time it was probably a direct result of lack of proper tuning (no Wideband at the time) and the EMU which is what I was using at the time and it is known to vary the tune on its own. So there was nothing much I could do...cracked apex seal.
After that I was still on the stock seals at about 15-16psi on pump gas but with the Int-X, on engine this I pulled the 366whp at 13psi and later the 414whp run. One day after work I was low on fuel and I forgot and punched it while empty and it pulled air into the pump and it made a weird sound and then it backfired...I still drove it home but I could tell it was leaking a little bit of oil....right after it happened I noticed I was below the E on the fuel gauge and I stopped for fuel just down the road from where it happened....I had to add oil twice on the way home and it was hard to restart at the gas station so I knew something was wrong...cracked front iron and apex seal had gone
After this last break I installed the prototype apex seals, dowel pinned the engine and never had an engine failure due to boost/detonation or too much power. It did detonate a few times and ran lean a few times also with no issues and at high boost levels for about a year. The same engine also underwent the switch to E-85 and it was ran for more than a year more on the corn stuff until last winter.
The only reason I pulled the engine a 3rd time was because it sucked a piece of gasket paper that somehow ended up in the engine causing one rotor to read low on compression because the gasket paper got cut into a million pieces (almost a puree of rubber paper) and wedged the apex seals into their slots. This gasket paper was from the new custom intake manifold I had made over the winter, it would've ran on the same engine from more than 2 years but since I had to pull it, I went ahead and experimented bridging the irons and that is what is in there now...remind me never to use cheap gasket paper...anywhere...I now used aluminum gaskets that I made myself, problem solved
Best regards,
Chris
The first time it was probably a direct result of lack of proper tuning (no Wideband at the time) and the EMU which is what I was using at the time and it is known to vary the tune on its own. So there was nothing much I could do...cracked apex seal.
After that I was still on the stock seals at about 15-16psi on pump gas but with the Int-X, on engine this I pulled the 366whp at 13psi and later the 414whp run. One day after work I was low on fuel and I forgot and punched it while empty and it pulled air into the pump and it made a weird sound and then it backfired...I still drove it home but I could tell it was leaking a little bit of oil....right after it happened I noticed I was below the E on the fuel gauge and I stopped for fuel just down the road from where it happened....I had to add oil twice on the way home and it was hard to restart at the gas station so I knew something was wrong...cracked front iron and apex seal had gone
After this last break I installed the prototype apex seals, dowel pinned the engine and never had an engine failure due to boost/detonation or too much power. It did detonate a few times and ran lean a few times also with no issues and at high boost levels for about a year. The same engine also underwent the switch to E-85 and it was ran for more than a year more on the corn stuff until last winter.
The only reason I pulled the engine a 3rd time was because it sucked a piece of gasket paper that somehow ended up in the engine causing one rotor to read low on compression because the gasket paper got cut into a million pieces (almost a puree of rubber paper) and wedged the apex seals into their slots. This gasket paper was from the new custom intake manifold I had made over the winter, it would've ran on the same engine from more than 2 years but since I had to pull it, I went ahead and experimented bridging the irons and that is what is in there now...remind me never to use cheap gasket paper...anywhere...I now used aluminum gaskets that I made myself, problem solved
Best regards,
Chris
Chris isn't the average 400+ HP Renesis wannabe. It takes a certain type of person to tune and maintain at this level and the majority of people here ain't it ...
Most of the FI converts on here are praying they don't blow because they can't afford a rebuild and if it happens they'll be selling everything off and going back to NA - read the stories, plenty of them posted here if you search.
Most of the FI converts on here are praying they don't blow because they can't afford a rebuild and if it happens they'll be selling everything off and going back to NA - read the stories, plenty of them posted here if you search.
The ones that do pray for a healthy, long lasting engine after FI and can not afford to rebuild have plenty of excuses on why not to never ever go FI again and or blame it on the engine. I actually mentioned somewhere here that I never seen so many complaints about a particular engine.
Last edited by bhop; 10-03-2009 at 11:34 PM.
#100
Up, Up & Awayyy!!!
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: SW Minnesota
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chris-
Hi my name is Churchill and I am located in MN...I am extremely interested in this kit. I have just received my 20b motor today and looking for such a kit as you mentioned. My tuner (RS Motors in Burnsville, MN) will be the one working on it. Please contact me as soon as you are convenient. Thank you
-Churchill
Hi my name is Churchill and I am located in MN...I am extremely interested in this kit. I have just received my 20b motor today and looking for such a kit as you mentioned. My tuner (RS Motors in Burnsville, MN) will be the one working on it. Please contact me as soon as you are convenient. Thank you
-Churchill