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Supernow has some interesting stuff but the price is spicy...
Thanks, Peloponisios. I'm not trying to do anything unique or special here ...on a 16 y.o. car. Goal is merely to return chassis to original comfort and compliance.
I should know more after my diagnostic appt tomorrow.
After a drive, and inspection the automotive shop says my control arms and bushings are fine, i.e. don't need replacing at this time. The OEM rubber bushings aren't ruptured or deformed. Perhaps I'm just feeling the difference between driving wifey's '21 C300, which is ultra quiet and tight, and my decade and a half old 8. She's been in warm climate, no salt, and garaged since purchase. So, not sure if I should trust this inspection or get a second..
They advised I re-install the transverse member or at least the large bolts which secure it in place b/c they assist in securing the front crossmember, increasing chassis rigidity, and reducing vibration. Reinstalled.
So, I'll just push her as is short term, and decide from there...
Might be old news for you, but I increased front camber to be slightly below rear camber, and a bit less toe in. Absolutely a more sporty/tight feeling, but not overly so. It bites better in roundabouts for example.
I have not tested more settings, just crossed my fingers, so far from sure this is the "sweetspot". -1°36' = -1.6° front. -2° rear.
Might be worth a shot.
I generally recommend the opposite on camber, but there are a lot of factors involved. thank only -1.36° in the front is kind of low.
Those two long bolts are important. As you said, only those and the forward studs are what secure the front subframe to the chassis. That brace adds torsional stiffness. Would be best for it to be on there if possible.
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Might be old news for you, but I increased front camber to be slightly below rear camber, and a bit less toe in. Absolutely a more sporty/tight feeling, ... Might be worth a shot.
Thanks. I've not investigating changing any alignment attributes. So, she's still at OEM settings at the moment. I would look into optimizing things a bit if / when I do any tracking, but tend to believe OEM are fine for daily.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I generally recommend the opposite on camber, but there are a lot of factors involved. thank only -1.36° in the front is kind of low.
Those two long bolts are important. As you said, only those and the forward studs are what secure the front subframe to the chassis. That brace adds torsional stiffness. Would be best for it to be on there if possible.
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Just returned from the driving range. Beautiful day. So took the long way home and gave her a thorough wringing out. Yes, those bolts are important. Noticeably smoother ride quality, and less NVH. So, now I need to write a positive review for the auto shop that didn't take my $$ for bushings I didn't need, gave me solid advice, ...AND didn't charge me a dime for the inspection. In case anyone's wondering ..."Christian Brothers".
Lesson learned..., but I'd occasionally not reinstalled the brace b/c as c/b seen below it fits directly under the oil pan drain and obstructs doing oil changes, WG work, etc.
Small matter to install it actually for the noticeably improved ride and handling performance.
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If you ever do replace front LCA, or just want to get it aligned, be prepared to sawzall-out the front camber bolts.
My 8 have never seen snow or salt and they were still absolutely welded to the LCAs.
If you ever do replace front LCA, or just want to get it aligned, be prepared to sawzall-out the front camber bolts.
My 8 have never seen snow or salt and they were still absolutely welded to the LCAs.
Wankelbolt, Good to know. I'll keep that in mind. I'm just glad I don't need to do anything w/them at the moment.
well he forgot to tell you to smear anti-seize on the inside of the new bushing sleeve and also on the new camber bolt cam to avoid that happening again.
I would highly recommend a good nickel-based high temp anti-seize over the common copper based stuff; which likely means ordering online like McMaster-Carr or some other industrial sales site, and then use it pretty much everywhere on every thread you ever take apart *except* where thread-lock is needed.
well he forgot to tell you to smear anti-seize on the inside of the new bushing sleeve and also on the new camber bolt cam to avoid that happening again.
I would highly recommend a good nickel-based high temp anti-seize over the common copper based stuff; which likely means ordering online like McMaster-Carr or some other industrial sales site, and then use it pretty much everywhere on every thread you ever take apart *except* where thread-lock is needed.
Thanks, Team. I'll keep that in mind when / if I need to replace the bushings.
Thanks. I've not investigating changing any alignment attributes. So, she's still at OEM settings at the moment. I would look into optimizing things a bit if / when I do any tracking, but tend to believe OEM are fine for daily.
You can see at the picture that all is within OEM except front camber. With less front camber, you get under steer when approaching limit, this is regarded "safest" by OEM's it seems. This is the reason I went for slightly less front vs. rear. On top of that, I was not sure where I maxed out, so I just hoped for improvement.
But it feels more sporty before limit, I highly recommend it for daily driving, which now is the purpose of mine RX8 as well. Its still stable and relaxing to drive.
But as @TeamRX8 say, there is many variables, I have another car with not that different angles(less front caster though), and it feels like riding a bull. Driving the RX8 afterwards feels like a flying carpet.
My RX8 is stiffer and lower with KW v3(damper at mid setting) and front sway bar from mazdaspeed. 20-30% stiffer than OEM if memory serves me right.
I've been doing some "island" tuning last few days in cruise..., boost threshold..., and WOT zones for optimized power and fuel efficiency. The tune is almost there....and she's a friggin' jet.
Though I'm running an E30 mix... w/ warmer ambient temps coming I'm going to richen the WOT zone to high 10's.
Presume these have been bandied about elsewhere..., but thought I'd post these great resources that assisted me in preparation and throughout my build process.
... fall ambient temps have dropped into the 40s & 50s, and with my aftermarket oil cooler t-stats, my oil temps were basically pinging at ~ 160- 165°F - too cold for for proper bearing lubrication. In previous years I'd just cover my oil coolers, but I snookered myself this year by installing mesh over all my bumper openings...as there was no way to cover them in an aesthetically acceptable manner to me. So, ... I ...swapped back in the OEM t-stats, and voila oil temps were ~ 180°F solid.
I'll see next spring..., but may settle on running the lower temp t-stats late spring and summer, and OEMs in the fall and during my limited drives during the winter.
Originally Posted by Brettus
Just leave the stock T.stats in there and you wont need to mess with them ever again ......
Originally Posted by DocWalt
Unless you're tracking the car, the stock t-stats are fine. ...
Originally Posted by jcbrx8
I'm thinking you're right guys.... I'll eval one last time in spring, and if temps are good; be done w/ it. Who knows I may do some infrequent tracking. ...
Verdict is in. Brettus / Doc, You guys were right. She's running ~190°F ECT and ~190°F oil T ...in upper 80s °F ambient.
Tidied a few things over the weekend. My driver-side fog light had been shattered by some stone or road debris on the hwy. Glad I'd installed the protective mesh over the rad, IC, and oil coolers ...whew. Took advantage of the last few rainy days, i.e. no golf ;-), and replaced both fogs to ensure light consistency, and added a few aesthetic touches: eyelids and strakes.
She's just about done wrt what I envisioned: IMV how Mazda s/h rolled the 8 off the lot ...perhaps w/out the hood vents. Though I do plan to install a mesh screen over the fan / rad assembly to protect against the potential headache of anything being dropped into them and to obscure the view of the wiring. Just need to ID a suitable mesh and design something simple and effective w/ ease of install and removal.
Chilllin' awaiting my return at the golf course last week.
. Eyelids and strakes installed.
. Plan to install protective mesh screen over fan / rad assembly.
This build thread is more like a turbocharging manual
Curt san, I keep coming back to re-read your build thread, sometimes all the hard work you do and the pains of fixing it over and over again are hidden behind your calm and composed demeanour.
Just know that when I go this route, you shared at least 22.7 percent blame (random number, I am not as precise as you are yet).
I thank you for being a good influence on me, not mentioning the turbocharging part here, but the clean garage and systematic approach, perseverance, transparency, mentioning your mistakes, asking for help and lack of fear to venture into unknown territory, to name a few.
Thank you.
Bro., Thank you for your kind words...really appreciated. Gratifying to know that my journey, the good, the bad, and the ugly; may help others to avoid pitfalls, and achieve a successful build. I must give a nod to all those who have helped me along the way (many mentioned in my initial post) w/out whom my result would not have been possible. If /when you go the turbo route know you've a resource ...however I can help.
I just have a very very very important question as far as turbocharging and reliability on track., I have an S2 with a new motor going in build by IR Performance in NJ, Their Recommendation is basically forget about FI on the Renesis due to the side port design
I have heard that the side seals blow out easily due to the high EGT and backpressure.
I'm a little scared but saw a bunch of people running without issues for years
I'm not looking for big horsepower gains but just like maybe run 270WHP to 300WHP max.
I spoke to Scott at RX8 performance he seems knowledgeable and have good experiences
I just have a very very very important question as far as turbocharging and reliability on track.,...
How easy it is for it to blow up lol
Kevin, I haven't tracked my car ...at least to date. My objective in boosting my 8 was to enhance my daily driver. So, I have fun w/ it..., and am in boost for short durations..., but nothing like tracking it.
I have read that heat saturation at the side exhaust ports is a problem in sustained boosted situations, which can lead to premature side seal failure, but I have no experience to validate or disprove that theory. I would presume that engine "hardening", proper kit design and install, cooling, monitoring, proper fuel enhancement, etc. will all be *major factors* in any outcome in any regard. That said I suggest you inquire of those who have experience tracking their boosted 8s, e.g. Brettus and others, for their knowledge and experience.
I see you've already inquired in Brett's thread regarding his manifold. I believe he w/b a good resource on this related, but more specific topic of potential engine issues and concerns of tracking a boosted 8.
02-17-2022, 01:53 PM
Noticeably smoother ride quality, and less NVH. So, now I need to write a positive review for the auto shop that didn't take my $$ for bushings I didn't need, gave me solid advice, ...AND didn't charge me a dime for the inspection. In case anyone's wondering ..."Christian Brothers". 
Lesson learned..., but I'd occasionally not reinstalled the brace b/c as c/b seen below it fits directly under the oil pan drain and obstructs doing oil changes, WG work, etc.
...
