Curt’s Gr8t 8 Turbo Build
#76
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Thread Starter
That really sucks.
If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.
If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.
Last edited by jcbrx8; 10-28-2018 at 02:05 PM.
#77
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Well, as committed... the good, bad, this is the ugly. I took the car out Mon. evening ...simple cruise...think I hit 1 psi. After driving ~ 5 mi I stopped for gas. After filling up she wouldn't start. Multiple attempts...cranked strong, but would not start. Thought to let the engine cool. After some time while waiting I looked underneath and saw a pool of coolant generally...under manifold area (recall I still have the ex mani leak). So, popped the coolant cap and was topping it up. As I continued to periodically crank the engine I could see wafs of smoke emanating from the coolant overfill bottle coinciding w/ when the engine was being cranked. After ~an hr of cranking, waiting, and getting jumps...finally got her started... white smoke billowing everywhere, and was able to drive directly home. Since...she starts, but has rough idle and fair amount of white smoke. So, I'm reasonably confident, unfortunately, that whatever happened last Sat ruptured the coolant o-ring in the rotor 2 housing. I was logging last Sat when the initial "event" happened and AFRs repeatedly drove to ~10.6 in boost, coolant and oil temps were ~205F and 190F, respectively. After the event coolant climbed past my alarm threshold (215F) to 220F before dropping back to normal range. So, given that data my presumption is this was simply the product of boosting a 65k mile reman'd non-built engine, which btw I expected to "go"..., but not so soon.
So, currently considering options, cost, and time frames for next steps...
So, currently considering options, cost, and time frames for next steps...
not sure how i am going to proceed.
beers
#79
Registered
Thread Starter
That really sucks.
If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.
If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.
Last edited by jcbrx8; 12-30-2018 at 07:37 AM.
#81
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Thread Starter
"You take the blue pill the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill—you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes" - Morpheus
I'm taking the red pill.
Much to learn... much to be done. More to come...
I'm taking the red pill.
Much to learn... much to be done. More to come...
Last edited by jcbrx8; 12-29-2018 at 02:38 PM.
#82
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
"You take the blue pill—the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill—you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes" - Morpheus
I'm taking the red pill.
Much to learn... much to be done. More to come...
beers
#85
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Thread Starter
Conversely, hopefully w/ no or minimal damage to housings and plates this is a good opportunity to learn and sufficiently "harden" the engine to handle the power the "Rock's cooking" Ideally, I intend to rebuild this engine w/ all new seals, a street port, dowells, a stud kit, and likely softer apex seals. THEN, FINALLY get my ex mani sealed. We'll see how it goes... more to come...
#88
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
OD, Appreciate it... and thanks for the suggestion. No, I haven't tried a sealant. I would have zero confidence a sealant would hold on a boosted engine, and wouldn't want to introduce a sealant essentially to the combustion chamber, or chance clogging coolant passages.
Conversely, hopefully w/ no or minimal damage to housings and plates this is a good opportunity to learn and sufficiently "harden" the engine to handle the power the "Rock's cooking" Ideally, I intend to rebuild this engine w/ all new seals, a street port, dowells, a stud kit, and likely softer apex seals. THEN, FINALLY get my ex mani sealed. We'll see how it goes... more to come...
beers
#89
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Whoa.....! That’s nasty.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.
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rob babicki (06-11-2021)
#91
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Pulled my engine out this weekend as well . Are you going REW or just a refresh?
#92
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Thread Starter
All the best to you. What's your time frame?
#93
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
Whoa.....! That’s nasty.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.
carry on with the thread, sorry.
beers
#95
Registered
Bolting on the new counterweight, flywheel, twin disc clutch tomorrow then resealing the front cover and oil pan, etc. I'll be dropping the motor back in this weekend. Good luck on the rebuild.
#96
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Thread Starter
Thanks! I've been covered w/ work. Expecting to make some progress during time off over Thanksgiving. Next up...stripping auxiliary items, and cracking the block.
#97
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Thread Starter
Quick progress update: engine stripped down to short block and cracking the keg.
Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / end iron side water seal (in last pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.
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Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / end iron side water seal (in last pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.
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Last edited by jcbrx8; 07-30-2019 at 07:14 AM.
#98
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Thread Starter
Short block disassembly:
Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / center iron side water seal (in the 4th pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.
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Note: Water seal seen here on the rear rotor / center iron side destroyed around the perimeter of the exhaust phase.
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Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / center iron side water seal (in the 4th pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.
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Note: Water seal seen here on the rear rotor / center iron side destroyed around the perimeter of the exhaust phase.
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Last edited by jcbrx8; 07-30-2019 at 07:18 AM.
#99
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Thread Starter
- The culprit, blown water seal
- rotor 1 & 2 spring and seal disassembly
- rotors & housings cleaning...
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Note: Old housings showing scoring around the leading plug holes. These were NOT reused in my rebuild.
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- rotor 1 & 2 spring and seal disassembly
- rotors & housings cleaning...
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Note: Old housings showing scoring around the leading plug holes. These were NOT reused in my rebuild.
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Last edited by jcbrx8; 07-30-2019 at 07:21 AM.
#100
Registered
Looks good. I know some people will say you need all new housings etc., but I would just verify everything is in spec and not damaged, buy a new closing kit and get it back together. Chances are something else will blow well before anything else is truly unusable... If your are iffy on that, you may look into resurfacing those housings. I got mine done at Freelance and they came back looking brand new for like $300.
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jcbrx8 (02-16-2019)