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Curtís Gr8t 8 Turbo Build

Old 10-01-2018, 01:24 PM
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Ok, now on to the slippery oil leakÖ
- on further inspection the oil leak seemed to be emanating from the sensor mount.
- so ordered a new oil level sensor o-ring.
- removed oil pan again, cleaned sealant again
- installed oil level sensor o-ring w/ a tiny bead of Permatex ultra grey for good measure (see pic, post o-ring repair. Nice and clean.)
- re-installed the pan again
- after allowing sealant to cure refilled her w/oil
- started her again
- leak resolved!!






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Old 10-01-2018, 01:48 PM
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Looks great so far! I'm excited to see how this kit works for your car as I may consider it in the future. Up until this post I've been stressing the though of a modified Greddy kit or a full-on 13B-REW swap.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by furansu View Post
Looks great so far! I'm excited to see how this kit works for your car as I may consider it in the future. Up until this post I've been stressing the though of a modified Greddy kit or a full-on 13B-REW swap.
Thanks, Furansu! Yeah, I plan to keep the forum updated w/ my results and impressions throughout tuning...

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Old 10-01-2018, 01:58 PM
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- Neytiri: Now you choose your ikran. This you must feel inside. If he also chooses you, move quickly, like I showed you.You will have one chance.
- Jake: How will I know if he chooses me?
- N: He will try to kill you.
- J: Outstanding
- N: MAKE THE BOND!! First flight seals the bond.You cannot wait.Think fly!
(Jake makes the bond)
- J: That’s right you’re mine! Shut up & fly straight!
I may not be a horse guy, but I was born to do this. ��

- first drive observations: Started easily. Actually amazed at how pre-turbo-like she felt: i.e. no idle issues, no hesitations, no surging, ...:-)

- tuning phase…
- First drive vid:

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Old 10-01-2018, 02:02 PM
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- still need to work proper IC, rad, & oil cooler ducting & sealing
  • standard running coolant temp ~ 195-200F
  • standard running oil temp ~ 180F
- and she needs new beefier sneakers ��

- Purring in the garage after fresh oil, filter, and tank of gas w/ premixÖ


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Old 10-01-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jcbrx8 View Post
  • standard running coolant temp ~ 195-200F
Sealing the rad will help with this but IC being so low and blocking flow to the rad will be something you will be fighting .
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Old 10-01-2018, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus View Post
Sealing the rad will help with this but IC being so low and blocking flow to the rad will be something you will be fighting .
I'm wondering if anyone has seen any improvement routing some air, left & right of the IC, around the IC directly to the rad.

Also, we can reduce the fan start temp, right? Any down side?
Its currently 207F. Would like to have set at ~196.



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Old 10-01-2018, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jcbrx8 View Post


I'm wondering if anyone has seen any improvement routing some air, left & right of the IC, around the IC directly to the rad.

Also, we can reduce the fan start temp, right? Any down side?
Its currently 207F. Would like to have set at ~196.


They are set at 196F (91C) . No point setting them any lower than that .
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Old 10-01-2018, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus View Post
They are set at 196F (91C) . No point setting them any lower than that .
Ok, roger that. Thx.
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Old 10-02-2018, 06:16 PM
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That is great looking work and a wonderful job of explaining all the bumps along the path. Do you have an idea of the number of hours invested into the project? The testing and rework should also be included because there is always rework. Are you using Mazda Edit for the tuning? Did you happen to do some Dyno runs before starting this project and are you planning to do some runs after the tuning is finished? Pretty sure everyone would be interested in the results.
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Old 10-02-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by northzone View Post
That is great looking work and a wonderful job of explaining all the bumps along the path. Do you have an idea of the number of hours invested into the project? The testing and rework should also be included because there is always rework. Are you using Mazda Edit for the tuning? Did you happen to do some Dyno runs before starting this project and are you planning to do some runs after the tuning is finished? Pretty sure everyone would be interested in the results.
Northzone,
Thanks...appreciate that.
- Really good question. One I'd not considered b/c I actually enjoy the journey, as much as I know I'll enjoy the car. I initially estimated ~100+ hrs working evenings & weekends. On more thought it was probably closer to 150 hrs physical work: prep and install. MANY more hours when considering kit & component research & selection, sourcing, and installation planning w/this being my first install.
- Yes, I'm using M/E for tuning.
- No, I had no interest in dynoing pre FI, but I'm sure I will once the kit is sufficiently tuned.

Note: Simply tuning w/ a 1.5# spring she feels like her old self...w/ OCD.

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Old 10-03-2018, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus View Post
Sealing the rad will help with this but IC being so low and blocking flow to the rad will be something you will be fighting .
I am using the mazdaspeed front bumper as it gives me more room to duct air to the radiator
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by skc View Post
I am using the mazdaspeed front bumper as it gives me more room to duct air to the radiator
Yessir, already on the build list. Presuming all continues to go well I plan to round her out w/ :
  • Tires (this week)
  • Mazdaspeed body kit w/ proper ducting
  • coil overs
Wasn't going to pull the trigger for add'l spend until heart surgery was confirmed to have gone well.

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Old 10-04-2018, 10:56 PM
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Update: Tuning is going well... More to come soon.

Last edited by jcbrx8; 10-05-2018 at 12:55 AM. Reason: checking M/E v-dyno parameters
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:28 AM
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Looks like the dynosheet was removed but from what I saw, at 5PSI, that thing is making good power. Talk about a sweet powerband with that table-top flat torque curve.
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by furansu View Post
Looks like the dynosheet was removed but from what I saw, at 5PSI, that thing is making good power. Talk about a sweet powerband with that table-top flat torque curve.
Furansu,
Yes, i removed the v-dyno to sort out the parameters to ensure what I was posting was accurate. So, #s to come... soon.

Just fitted new sneakers today (245s), and though I'm still in the tuning phase (Smh...); she is an absolute BLAST to drive. 😜 I'm like a fat kid in a candy store when I'm going to do logs. 😂

Though the increased power / acceleration really highlights the need for a more athletic base...firmer shocks or coilovers.

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Old 10-06-2018, 11:02 AM
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Yeah...I'm pretty pleased w/ the progress to date. Compared to stock...sheeesh...she's a new car...a beast!!


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Old 10-06-2018, 02:49 PM
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...another...
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Old 10-06-2018, 05:41 PM
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Congrats! Your horsepower really takes off at 7k... Is that some type of valve or extra boost or what? Most rx8 dyno are usually flatter up top.... Also what boost level?
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Old 10-07-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt View Post
Congrats! Your horsepower really takes off at 7k... Is that some type of valve or extra boost or what? Most rx8 dyno are usually flatter up top.... Also what boost level?
SC95gt, Thanks!

Brett noticed the same and indicated that the below that he generated was likely more accurate. Same M/E data but "managed" differently. I don't doubt him as he's very experienced w/ M/E, and I am not. Obviously, M/E is doing some data "smoothing" and the resultant dyno is dependent on your start / stop points of the data generated from the pull. It appears to be an "art", not a science that I'll learn over time

Edit: Regarding boost: I saw peak of 10.0. So, these were liklely somewhere in the 9.5-10 range.

Regardless, she is a blast to drive. So smooth, and power on tap.



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Old 10-07-2018, 08:22 AM
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Well even in paradise... the rain will fall. Using an older laptop, one of my sons, which is slow, gets hung, or crashes...I've managed to render my ECU into an unresponsive state. For the record when attempting to flash it M/E returns the message: "You should use firmware as base file for this ECU." I've come to understand that this is the result essentially if the flash transfer is interrupted, e.g. dongle comes out, laptop crashes, battery dies, you try to start engine, etc. So, as I have committed to share the good, bad, and ugly in my build experience... this obviously is a downer...

So, she is unresponsive at the moment. But as we know... this is a big boys game. If you get in it...things WILL happen.

At some point, everything's gonna go south on you... everything's going to go … you can either accept that, or you can get to work. That's all it is. You just begin. You do the math. You solve one problem... and you solve the next one... and then the next. And If you solve enough problems, you get to come home. All right, questions?” - Mark Watney, “The Martian”

So, off to Mazda tomorrow to find out what m/b done to get her back up...
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Old 10-07-2018, 12:14 PM
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Thankful. Contacted Epifan (M/E) who advised (and this is a cut & paste, ) - "Just flash it again! This message appears when you read information about ECU."
Though I had multiple times ...so I thought..., nevertheless somewhat doubtful...I rebooted the laptop again, and initiated the flash making sure to allow the laptop plenty of time to complete each action. It walked me through the flash as normal, ...success, and she's purring again.

Lesson learned from this little episode:
  1. Be very deliberate when flashing as there are potential dangers here.
  2. Attach dongle w/ care so as not to bend any OBDii pins
  3. Ensure dongle is securely attached and undisturbed throughout the process
  4. Use as reliable a laptop as possible
  5. Allow sufficient time for each action to fully complete (never rush, interrupt, or perform w/ a suspect battery)

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Old 10-07-2018, 02:54 PM
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Power looks pretty damn good to me for a 2nd gear log .Those other logs are likely showing that odd shape due to a rise in revs as you step on the clutch at the end of the run. A 3rd gear log at same boost will show more power ..especially around 4000 , as spoolup is much better in 3rd .

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Old 10-07-2018, 08:12 PM
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Good results. A few Qs:
Is your target boost 10psi, or will you go higher in the long term?
What RPM are you hitting target boost (need to use 3rd gear or higher for this)?
Have you dialed in the boost controller for best spool yet? I find it interesting how the various EBC settings can change the boost curve.
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyBlack View Post
Good results. A few Qs:
Is your target boost 10psi, or will you go higher in the long term?
What RPM are you hitting target boost (need to use 3rd gear or higher for this)?
Have you dialed in the boost controller for best spool yet? I find it interesting how the various EBC settings can change the boost curve.
Jimmy,
Thanks ...appreciate that!
  • As reliability is one of my primary objectives... I'll likely run 7 & 9 psi short-term. Long-term I'm investigating / planning to run E30 to both increase safety margin and power a bit. At that time I'll likely run 9 & 12 psi.
  • I've only been doing 2nd gear pulls, and primarily focusing on correlating my EBC SET and GAIN % to peak psi achieved at this point. So, I can't say at what RPM peak is achieved. At some point not in the too distant future I plan to do some 3rd gear pulls which will provide more data.
  • No, I plan to focus on optimizing spool next. I believe there m/b some gains here.
Yeah, I'm still learning & experimenting w/ how the various settings combine to affect power, trq curves, and drivability.
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