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Curtís Gr8t 8 Turbo Build

Old 12-28-2018, 02:36 AM
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Engine re-build compression "chug" test...and checking end play...

Edit: new link

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Old 12-28-2018, 08:34 AM
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Did you use and sealant or hylomar on the legs of the rotor housing? Its not a huge deal if you didn't but you may get some oil weeping out of those areas. Not even 100% sure if that is done on the MSP engine.

Everything looks real good.

The link appears to be broken.

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Old 12-28-2018, 09:13 AM
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Any reasoning behind the turblown studs over goopy? And do the housings need to be machined to use the studs or is it just doweling?
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt View Post
Did you use and sealant or hylomar on the legs of the rotor housing? Its not a huge deal if you didn't but you may get some oil weeping out of those areas. Not even 100% sure if that is done on the MSP engine.

Everything looks real good.

The link appears to be broken.
Thanks. Yes, Its likely hard to see, but I installed the water seals w/ hylomar; and sealed each of the housing "legs" w/ Permatex grey.

I edited my above post with a new vid link. Hopefully that one works.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rkesh88 View Post
Any reasoning behind the turblown studs over goopy? And do the housings need to be machined to use the studs or is it just doweling?
RK88,
No reason for the Turblown stud kit over Goopy per se. My objective was 1) to increase tensile strength, & 2) to increase lateral/ dynamic rigidity against engine flexing ... both w/out machining, if possible. Jonathan at Goopy was very informative, responsive, and helpful; but I'd already purchased the Turblown stud kit which met my objective. I installed Pineapples' full length dowels (1x solid, 1x drilled) to address the flex issue. Btw Rob at Pineapple was also extremely helpful, informative, and easy to work with as well.

Regarding stud kits and machining generally.... some do, some don't. Thicker diameter kits require machining the housings and irons. IMO only a professional shop can machine them "to the tolerances required" to be effective. The kits sold with a drill bit are a joke IMO lol. If pro machine drilled and stud kitted... lateral / flex rigidity w/b increased also; so doweling wouldn't be required.
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:52 PM
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Seems like the compression is fine from the video.
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Old 12-28-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt View Post
Seems like the compression is fine from the video.
SC95GT - Thanks. How's your re-build coming along? Are you still prepping the engine for installation ...or have you re-installed it?
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Old 12-28-2018, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jcbrx8 View Post
SC95GT - Thanks. How's your re-build coming along? Are you still prepping the engine for installation ...or have you re-installed it?
Car has been back up and running for a few weeks now. It was only down like 2 weeks. Was only a clutch change and and few other goodies.

Going to be turning it up to 25+ psi at the track tomorrow night. If I make it home in one piece it will be a miracle...
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Old 12-28-2018, 05:35 PM
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Good luck stroker!
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:11 PM
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SXGT95,
25 psi Good work and good luck!
Post a link or some vids. Would love to see what an 8 pushing 25 psi can do.
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jcbrx8 View Post
SXGT95,
25 psi Good work and good luck!
Post a link or some vids. Would love to see what an 8 pushing 25 psi can do.
Iím more excited to see what this renesis will do over the rew. We know the rew will blow minds but seeing a well sorted renesis will be even better. Maybe the voodoo magic tune will show us how well a built renny will do
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:56 PM
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In the video where you are checking the "end-play or end float", you should have the flywheel nut and stack test fitted first. End play should be like 0.020-0.035" (if I remember correctly) and in the video it seems like your moving the e-shaft like 0.25-0.50". You should only be able to grab the flywheel and make a slight tick as you move it inward and outward. It should be almost impossible to see and only be able to hear the slight tick as its moved in an out...

I'm sure you already know this, just making sure its not an oversight....
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:08 PM
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Yes, you're right. I'm working thru that now. With flywheel, nut and front stack installed the e-shaft float appears tight. When I remove the front bolt the end float appears correct. I think the tightness m/h to do with the front pin not fully seating. Will continue with it tomorrow...
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Rkesh88 View Post
Iím more excited to see what this renesis will do over the rew. We know the rew will blow minds but seeing a well sorted renesis will be even better. Maybe the voodoo magic tune will show us how well a built renny will do
RK88, Appreciate it, but if you're interested in a high output Renesis, ...follow Brettus who's doing a great job with that objective. My objectives are 325-350 wHP reliable DD. My hardening the block is primarily aimed at the reliability component.
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:09 PM
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Progress update:
  • Flywheel nut torqued,
  • front stack assembled
  • End play / float tolerance measured
Note: Acceptable tolerance 0.0016-0.0028", 0.04-0.07 mm


Little help from my son :-)



Front stack assembly...



Front stack assembly...



End float (engine rear up) 7.38mm



End float (engine rear down) 7.43mm

Resulting end float measurment is 0.05 mm ...(w/in acceptable range of 0.04-0.07)

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Brettus (12-29-2018)
Old 12-29-2018, 02:11 PM
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Knock, knock...

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Old 12-29-2018, 02:42 PM
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Yup that looks/sounds correct. I used to check it with a dial gauge, but after a few rebuilds you can just "feel" it (not recommended).
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Old 12-30-2018, 07:35 PM
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Progress update: Finally fully sealed e-mani. to the block...
- Purchased a replacement e-mani gasket, and pleasantly found it was significantly thicker, i.e .more metal accordion folds, than the OEM gasket, which worked to my benefit.
- Further modified custom nuts
- Re-tapped problem stud positions on irons... and nuts
- Torqued all nuts (I could get a torque wrench on) to spec., 25 ft lbs, and others w/ equal force.

*** Soooo much easier with engine out of the car.



E-mani installed



- Used hemostats to fit washers onto difficult stud positions (to avoid cylindrical portion of nut seating into the manifold back-plate stud holes)
- Then installed custom fabricated nuts ...backwards

***Btw...Properly/ fully sealing the RX8Perf exhaust manifold to the block m/h been the most difficult challenge of the entire build.





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Old 12-30-2018, 11:52 PM
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sweet!

beers
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Old 01-03-2019, 05:50 PM
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She's back in the stable. My rebuilt engine is ready for reinstall...just awaiting delivery of a new turbine thermal cover, and the time / opportunity for reinstall...



Back in the stable...



...front view



...passenger-side view ...w/ mani & turbo installed



...rear view



...driver-side view

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Old 01-03-2019, 11:57 PM
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NZ

Can I ask what the advantage was of using the stud kit instead of the factory bolts when rebuilding your engine?
I could see an advantage if the studs went right through the front plate as well, but they don't seem to do that.
Also why did you choose the Pineapple waterseals over the Atkins ones in the end, was there much difference between the two types?
Thanks, looks like you are going well.
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Old 01-04-2019, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Rotaman View Post
Can I ask what the advantage was of using the stud kit instead of the factory bolts when rebuilding your engine?
I could see an advantage if the studs went right through the front plate as well, but they don't seem to do that.
Also why did you choose the Pineapple waterseals over the Atkins ones in the end, was there much difference between the two types?
Thanks, looks like you are going well.
The studs thread into the front plate.

The studs are stronger and a greater diameter than the factory bolts. It helps keep the motor from twisting/bulging under heavy loads. Some say the are not needed until after you pass the 600 rwhp mark, but it never hurts to have the added strength.

I have used both Pineapple and Atkins water seals. Pineapple call theirs "Heavy Duty" and are a brown color. Atkins are black and don't have any specific designation. Honestly, other than the color, they look and feel identical. I can't vouch for the actual materials that make up each seal. My guess is no matter how "heavy duty" the seal is that enough heat will blow either.

Other people may have a different take on this, or have more knowledge on these questions.

Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 01-04-2019 at 06:55 AM.
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jcbrx8 (01-04-2019)
Old 01-04-2019, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Rotaman View Post
Can I ask what the advantage was of using the stud kit instead of the factory bolts when rebuilding your engine?
I could see an advantage if the studs went right through the front plate as well, but they don't seem to do that.
Also why did you choose the Pineapple waterseals over the Atkins ones in the end, was there much difference between the two types?
Thanks, looks like you are going well.
R-man, Sure I'll reference some previous posts w/ similar related subject matter.

Originally Posted by jcbrx8 View Post
RK88 - No reason for the Turblown stud kit over Goopy per se. My objective was 1) to increase tensile strength, & 2) to increase lateral/ dynamic rigidity against engine flexing ... both w/out machining, if possible.... I installed Pineapples' full length dowels (1x solid, 1x drilled) to address the flex issue. ...
Regarding stud kits and machining generally.... some do, some don't. Thicker diameter kits require machining the housings and irons. IMO only a professional shop can machine them "to the tolerances required" to be effective. The kits sold with a drill bit are a joke IMO lol. If pro machine drilled and stud kitted... lateral / flex rigidity w/b increased also; so doweling wouldn't be required.

See also Stroker's comment above.

My engine blew a water seal the beginning of a WOT run when I'd been meticulous about cooling, monitoring temps, and "know" that it had not seen elevated temps...certainly since being boosted. But it was a reman'd engine w/ ~70k mi. So, I believe it failed d/t age / miles & dynamic twist / flex. They say not to boost a high mileage engine. They're right.

So, I installed the studs for the reasons indicated above: ~0.7mm thicker (but w/out requiring machining), stronger, and provide elevated & more precise torquing for increased tensile strength. Since I did not install a stud kit requiring iron & housing machining...I also installed Pineapple's 1-piece dowels to increase lateral rigidity against the dynamic flex. I firmly believe, implemented together, these will yield a stronger engine. By how much? ...but worth doing w/ engine already apart.

Lol...I completely concur w/ Stroker regarding the choice of the Pineapple seals over the Atkins. End of the day...couldn't tell much difference & stopped short of investigating materials, etc. So, basically installed the Pineapples based on other forum member's experience / recommendation, and the fact that they "market" to HD seals & other components.

As my tuner, Brettus, says,"Any bad detonation will kill your engine regardless of what you do ... So the key is ...not to detonate." So, we're talking "margins" here...none of this will sustain abuse, i.e. severe over heating or detonation. However, w/ thoughtful tuning, cooling, & monitoring I'm hopeful will fair better against any light "incidents" and provide increased longevity.

Time will tell.

Last edited by jcbrx8; 01-07-2019 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:38 PM
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When I rebuilt I also went with billet studs and extra dowels to reduce flex. I will be installing the supercharger soon and plan to run around 12 psi.
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by skc View Post
When I rebuilt I also went with billet studs and extra dowels to reduce flex. I will be installing the supercharger soon and plan to run around 12 psi.
SKC, All the best w/ your install.
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