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Well people knock the K&N design, but it’s a known quantity for me that I’m comfortable with. I also have super-fine filter socks over them. Another reason to have 3x area.
Well people knock the K&N design, but it’s a known quantity for me that I’m comfortable with. I also have super-fine filter socks over them. Another reason to have 3x area.
The above is an" AFE Power" filter...or are you referring to it's "design". If so, ...interesting...what's the knock on the design?
I don't need anything to sustain drives through the desert ...just increased filter surface area, ...reduced velocity and therefore oil draw.
People believe that oiled-cotton style as compared a paper/film filter allows fine particles to get through. There are a bunch of threads on here arguing about a K&N vs OE filter in the OE airbox and so on. I don’t know that brand. That’s about equivalent to what I have except mine’s a cylinder rather than a cone and the other is the same just 1/2 as long. So the sock just adds additional outer filtering to keep larger grit and particles like sand, leaves, bugs etc. from getting to the main filter pleats without impacting overall flow.
People believe that oiled-cotton style as compared a paper/film filter allows fine particles to get through. There are a bunch of threads on here arguing about a K&N vs OE filter in the OE airbox and so on. I don’t know that brand. That’s about equivalent to what I have except mine’s a cylinder rather than a cone and the other is the same just 1/2 as long. So the sock just adds additional outer filtering to keep larger grit and particles like sand, leaves, bugs etc. from getting to the main filter pleats without impacting overall flow.
Ok, ...admittedly...didn't search. I do like the sock covering idea. And I do agree w/ your characterization - "overkill". Man, it's nice, but alot of filter for an N/A
It’s been posted for a long time, thought you’d seen it Brett. Eliminated the oil fill section under the UIM, relocated the solenoid vacuum tank to the RH engine bay, straightened the UIM, mounted IGN-1A coils above each rotor housing. Bunch of people grumbling about it, lol
It’s been posted for a long time, thought you’d seen it Brett. Eliminated the oil fill section under the UIM, relocated the solenoid vacuum tank to the RH engine bay, straightened the UIM, mounted IGN-1A coils above each rotor housing. Bunch of people grumbling about it, lol
This is the most recent with the ignition, but I originally posted the CAI up about a year ago
Team - Nice work! You gonna make me read that entire thread...or spill the beans of your objective of the mods... aside from creating mounts for new coils?
It mostly just cleans things up from a racing perspective. I get a kick out of making stuff too. I’d like to think there’s some high rpm power potential on the intake, but maybe not. Otherwise most of that is fluff to trigger snowflake competitors. Seemed to work pretty good ....
I don't track or race......yet, but I'm a avid road cyclist so very familiar w/ the notion of power to mass ratio: off-season... increase power, riding season...cut weight. Sounds like you're putting in the work...leaving no stone unturned. So, if you can tell me w/out killing me, what is your curb weight now?
So, I've experienced a misfire or two under WOT >6k rpm here lately. AFRs are solid, and coils are new. So, I suspect my plugs, 4x NGK 6725 105s, w/~6k miles
I've read thru what appeared to be the salient portions of the "The End All Turbo Spark Plug Thread" and gleaned good information , and am trying to decide which plugs I'll run moving forward. My objectives for a new plug:
Run "9"s: SME's who's experience I trust have recommended this temp range for street driving at my power level
Iridium: for greater longevity ...as compared to platinum & nickel
Simplicity: a single plug vs different L&T.....presuming this makes sense. Open to discussion on this point.
Cost value
Did some research and compiled the below chart and information for comparison. I'm leaning toward running the NGK 6701 RE9BT all round... as it appears the best candidate given my system, driving context, and objectives.
Thoughts / opinions... pro or con? What might I be missing?
I'd keep the 10.5 plugs you have in Trailing and go 6725 9s in leading . That's what I have now and they work great.
Have you removed and inspected the old plugs yet? ...post some pics .
So you do believe its important to maintain the L vs T heat stagger: L: 9s, T: 10-10.5.
No, I've not pulled the existing yet. Want to secure replacements ....before pulling and replacing the old. I'll post pics when I do.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The NGK R7440 plugs are Renesis specific racing iridium and the best imo, they’re very pricy ($40ish each) unless you luck into a deal. At your power level 9s are probably ok and just using OE trailing with a better leading is probably fine for your street car. I wouldn’t run 10.5 except for track, but if Brettus recommends 9/10 that’s probably fine.....
Thanks for the helpful NGK info.
I looked at the R7420/R7440/R6725s..., but they are pricey. I'm undecided between selecting one of these high $$ plugs, and running it until the first misfire..., or selecting a less expensive iridium plug, e.g. RE9BT,; and planning to replace it on a more frequent interval, ~ every year / ~10k miles.
So you do believe its important to maintain the L vs T heat stagger: L: 9s, T: 10-10.5.
No, I've not pulled the existing yet. Want to secure replacements ....before pulling and replacing the old. I'll post pics when I do.
.
That's why you should pull them before you purchase new ones ..... see how they look.
If they are not fouled ...my bet it's not the plugs that are the problem.
That's why you should pull them before you purchase new ones ..... see how they look.
If they are not fouled ...my bet it's not the plugs that are the problem.
I'm running 10.5s all round. So, minimally the 10.5s in leading s/b swapped out d/t heat range, and perhaps all of them, if fouled. So, selecting and having replacements on hand will allow me to do whatever needs to be done. Otherwise, I'll store the replacements for future use.
Well ....you don't know they are too cold yet, because you haven't pulled them . ....................... Going by your logic ....you will need to buy 4 of every heat range available !
Well ....you don't know they are too cold yet, because you haven't pulled them . ....................... Going by your logic ....you will need to buy 4 of every heat range available !
I was actually going by your and a few others experience that 10.5s were too cold for leading. But if there's some question...then I'll pull and inspect them first.
On another note...just returned from a spirited drive ...wringing her out. She pulled strong w/ zero misfires. So, I'll continue to monitor and still check plugs.
It depends on ,boost,fuel and how you drive it etc. 10.5s will probably be fine if you are doing long trips and are in boost a lot ..... if you are tooling around town ....they'll be too cold. Only way to know for sure ...is to look at them.
Front & rear rotor leading plugs. They look pretty fouled around the perimeter. I'm thinking the fouling is the combined result of the plug being too cold a heat range in an excessively rich A/F mixture environment caused by my dirty MAF a few days ago.
Unbelievably relieved to be rid of this eyesore. I replaced the shift cover a few months ago as well...so the cabin looks as good today as the day I drove her off the lot.
I did the same thing a few years ago and my new cover is now beginning to crack. I'm so over it....
Yeah, I did some research into products that may prohibit or slow the cracking. I found support for using a UV protectant, e.g. 303 or suntan lotion. What have you tried? Did you find anything that seemed to even help?
Edit: I read on here where someone reupholstered the cover on the cheap. I'm going to look into doing the same w/ the spare cover.
11-08-2019, 11:18 AM
...just increased filter surface area, ...reduced velocity and therefore oil draw.
You gonna make me read that entire thread...or spill the beans of your objective of the mods... aside from creating mounts for new coils?
