When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks,Jesse. Hopefully will help others new to the Greddy PB2.
On another note...What's the tentative schedule for your new build...over winter?
Correct, engine is being built right now then install will happen over the winter. I'll post some updates to my swap thread once I have more exciting things to post lol.
Correct, engine is being built right now then install will happen over the winter. I'll post some updates to my swap thread once I have more exciting things to post lol.
Update:
Installed 4x Titan 20mm spacers all round. Though the OEM wheels have cavities on the inner side...they are shallow, ~ 2-3mm. Therefore, the OEM wheel studs had to be trimmed ~4mm d/t spacer width.
Unfortunately, the spacer studs were also too long to seat into the OEM lug nuts. So, the spacer studs had to be trimmed ~4mm as well to ensure everything flushed up and torqued properly.
Current setup:
- OEM wheels
- 245/40 - R18 tires
Initial driving impressions: Positive. Actually surprised at the noticeable handling improvement from widening the track 1.6" (40 mm). She feels more "planted" and firm, and provides more feedback & grip in twists & turns. No noticeable vibration or rubbing.
Pre, post, and install pics...
. PRE . .
INSTALL: . OEM wheel w/ inner cavities . spacer install - init. OEM studs are too long to mount 20mm spacers. Cutting / grinding of OEM stud is required. . spacer install - fnl (post stud cutting) . spacer install complete .
Had been experiencing some "rich" afrs ...low 10's. Got w/ Brett and he sorted my tune right out...put me in upper 10's..., and whew...rollin'. The below dyno is a short blast from 4500 rpm up a hwy entrance ramp
EDIT:
Revisited this v-dyno b/c 237 ftlbs seemed a bit unrealistic given I'd been seeing a max of ~225 ftlbs on full pulls. Interestingly, I was not able to reproduce the 237 ftlb v-dyno in M/E. I'd love if she were generating near 240 lbs. , but reality is she's nonetheless a blast to drive and this result is more consistent w/ the power level I've been seeing at my current boost level.
My original defined objective was to build a quality, "reasonably reliable" DD 8 generating ~ 325 hp / 230 ftlbs, i.e. a 70% HP increase above N/A at the wheels. I've exceeded that..., and reap reward of enjoying it daily.
But I appreciate your wealth of knowledge...and as you've indicated multiple times that the boost s/b increased, & here that I'm "strangling" the engine...so let's have the discussion.
Please explain...
Why should I increase the boost on a vehicle I thoroughly enjoy at it's current power level?
What indication is there of being "strangled"?
How much boost do you believe it can handle? (Please substantiate w/ facts, data, metrics, etc.)
Truly, w/ your knowledge & experience,..I look forward to your build thread to show us how it's done.
well it’s your car and you can do it any way you want. Just pointing out that’s why it’s heeling over at 5.5k just after it was finally ramping up strong. If that was your goal then perhaps a more responsive turbo might have been selected. I appreciate the snarkiness just the same.
Well I had doubts..., but pulled this v-dyno of a partial pull from M/E data log to Tactrix from a stint of spirited driving today. 243 ftlbs in full tilt.
Plan to do some full on WOT runs.... after tidying some loose ends ......and transitioning to E30 by spring.
Spent about 2 hours reading this. I understand now. So this is the most cost effective option for major horsepower upgrade as long as you’re not seeking too much over 320whp out of the Renesis...Its all starting to fall into place with the help of others trial and error.
Seeing as I would have to do this myself and not pay a shop this will help greatly. I will utilize this effectively.
Also considering I live in non car-friendly state this build also makes more sense going forward. I would love to sink money into this superb handling machine, versus buying something else and starting over. I wouldn’t daily drive it either..as I don’t currently daily it now.
I love to turn wrenches for fun, and I appreciate all the documentation. The further into history we go from the last production of a rotary engine, the more I need to be as self sufficient as possible. But in the end, like my friend Joseph says “I prefer driving the car more than I do fixing it.” It’s all relative.
...Lately, I've started thinking about how the cooler fall weather is going to affect the set-up. Generally, I expect ... my system m/h difficulty getting temps up to ideal operating range. ... I see two options:
- Opt 1: Install obstructions or covers over the oil coolers.
- Opt 2: Since I have low temp oil cooler thermostats (~175F)...Simply reinstall and run my OEM thermos (194F) during colder months.
Update: With ambient temps in the low 50s F lately I've been able to determine system temps running as shown below. Seeing oil temp running lower than ideal, last night I fitted covers (vinyl covered cardboard) over both coolers and oil temps came right in line.
- IAT: mid 60s F
- ECT: 178 +/- 2F
- Oil T.: 165 +/- 2 F ...(initially) / 180 +/- 2 F ...(w/ cooler covers fitted)
Of course, I'll monitor for some time until confident that oil temps remain in that range under all driving conditions.
EDIT: (w/ both coolers covered). - 11/2: At 57F ambient: IAT =~ 69F, ECT = ~180F, & Oil T = ~188F
- 11/8: At 46F ambient: IAT =~ 59F, ECT = ~176F, & Oil T = ~184F - 11/13: At 27F ambient: IAT =~ 45F, ECT = ~176F, & Oil T = ~176F
Interesting. I didn't expect oil temps to come down that low. Comparing apples to oranges, my stock oil cooling system stays at that 180F - 190F range at these same "low" ambient temps.
Spent about 2 hours reading this. I think I understand now. So this is the most cost effective option for major horsepower upgrade as long as you’re not seeking too much over 320whp out of the Renesis. Its all starting to fall into place.
Seeing as I would have to do this myself for the costs not to exceed $20k. I will utilize this like no tomorrow .
Also considering I live in non car-friendly state this build also makes more sense going forward. I would love to sink money into this superb handling machine, versus buying something else and starting over. I wouldn’t daily drive it either..as I don’t currently daily it now.
I love to turn wrenches for fun, and I appreciate all the documentation. The further into history we go from the last production of a rotary engine, the more I realize I need to be as self sufficient as possible. But in the end, like my friend Joseph says “I prefer driving the car more than I do fixing it.” It’s relative I suppose.
Thanks a million!
Regards, Jake
Jake,
Glad that you're finding my thread helpful. I found this kit a good fit for my objectives: reasonably reliable, well-mannered, DD, capable of ~325-350 wHP.
Edit: ThoughI believe this kit is capable of higher HP & torque...I intend to target the 325-350 wHP range as a measure to achieve reasonable reliability.
IMO the kit is well designed, low mount, w/ good flow and headroom to grow. I've not investigated other kits, TC and SC, sufficiently to characterize it as the "most cost effective" ...though it appears to be the most complete, and I believe only available low mount, which was important to me to achieve faster spool ...all things equal, as well as reduced heat & clutter in the engine bay.
I believe low/mid 300s is about the HP limit for a reasonably reliable Renesis, regardless of FI kit, i.e. resulting in gradual compression degradation vs. catastrophic incident. And that requiring adequate support systems: ignition, fuel, cooling (IAT, ECT, oil T), and tuning. That said...one simply has to accept the reality that our engines are a consumable commodity. So, enjoy it while it lasts.
In terms of cost I reasoned...I could spend $10k to enhance my 8, or spend 2-3x that to buy another vehicle of comparable performance that I'd enjoy. So, the odyssey began.
Should you pull the trigger on this kit...don't hesitate to reach out. I've many more pics of my install not posted and will help however I can.
Interesting. I didn't expect oil temps to come down that low. Comparing apples to oranges, my stock oil cooling system stays at that 180F - 190F range at these same "low" ambient temps.
Yeah, envisioning my gauge...initial oil temp was likely closer to ~165F (editted above), ...nonetheless too cold. I thought about swapping in my OEM oil cooler t-stats..., but ultimately hit the "easy button" and just fitted covers.
Interesting. I didn't expect oil temps to come down that low. Comparing apples to oranges, my stock oil cooling system stays at that 180F - 190F range at these same "low" ambient temps.
My new N/A 8 with twin oil coolers was running at 149f oil on 50f ambient days . I'm thinking someone messed with the thermostats if that is what you are getting by comparison. I fitted cover to one side only and oil temps are now pretty much in line with water.
My new N/A 8 with twin oil coolers was running at 149f oil on 50f ambient days . I'm thinking someone messed with the thermostats if that is what you are getting by comparison. I fitted cover to one side only and oil temps are now pretty much in line with water.
149F. Agreed... b/c the lowest temp oil cooler t-stat I found begins to crack at ~165F.
My 14 gal fuel container delivered toward my next step ...transitioning to E30.
The nearest E85 station is ~ 30 min. drive. So, rather than make that drive every fill-up, this container will allow me to make the drive about every 5th fill-up., i.e. 4.67 fills per container + 1 mixed tank per trip. Hoping it works out well, i.e. no leaking, etc.. to transport in trunk, and mount on a stand in the garage corner... high enough to gravity fill into the fuel tank just like at a gas station. Then E30 mixing w/b as simple as adding 3 gal E85, then WOT driving to the gas station to fill-up. jk'ing.
If uncomfortable transporting in the trunk...I'll use our Expedition.
Flo 'N Go 14 Gallon Fuel Container . Trunk w/ battery and pre-mix set-up . Flo 'N Go fits perfectly .
Not sure about TN, but here in TX they outlawed filling portable containers over 5 gallon capacity
Team, Interesting... thanks for the heads-up. I searched and didn't find any restriction in TN regarding container size. So, if true...they're keeping the regulation well hidden.
Yeah, they used to sell that 15 Gallon rig at Costco here. Now the Costco pumps have signs stating the ban. I almost bought one a few years back. I’d have been upset if I couldn’t use it any more.
fir me the 5 Gal race fuel jugs are better any way with E85 since you want to minimize air/moisture contact, such as only having 5 gallons sitting around for a while in a 15 gallon container.
Yeah, if not usable I'll return the 14 gal and go w/ plan B: multiple 5 gal containers. But I do want to optimize my trips out of the way to the E85 station.
I did some research and found that if properly stored, no moisture, E85 should last on the order of months. And I should burn thru 4-5 tanks in ~6-8 weeks time. So, hoping this container is sound.
My new N/A 8 with twin oil coolers was running at 149f oil on 50f ambient days . I'm thinking someone messed with the thermostats if that is what you are getting by comparison. I fitted cover to one side only and oil temps are now pretty much in line with water.
This makes me paranoid
Suppose I’ll have to ride around with my laptop to monitor my temps.. because too low is definitely not good. But with a stock thermostat this shouldn’t be an issue right?
This makes me paranoid
Suppose I’ll have to ride around with my laptop to monitor my temps.. because too low is definitely not good. But with a stock thermostat this shouldn’t be an issue right?
If you read RotarymachineRXs post above mine .... it would seem the stock thermostats are fine . I think someone foolisly removed mine thinking it would help cooling .....
If you read RotarymachineRXs post above mine .... it would seem the stock thermostats are fine . I think someone foolisly removed mine thinking it would help cooling .....
Gotcha. Well hopefully no more Easter eggs to find on your N/A 8. My
phone is a bit jumpy on the forums in mobile or standard...
need to utilize my laptop for the forums also.
hopefully the covers hold up. Sometimes simple is best!
My new N/A 8 with twin oil coolers was running at 149f oil on 50f ambient days . I'm thinking someone messed with the thermostats if that is what you are getting by comparison. I fitted cover to one side only and oil temps are now pretty much in line with water.
Will you be starting a build thread for your NA car?
If you read RotarymachineRXs post above mine .... it would seem the stock thermostats are fine . I think someone foolisly removed mine thinking it would help cooling .....
Hmmm, looking back I may have been having a big ole brain cramp. If memory serves me correctly there is not a stock oil temp sensor in these cars? I recently bought an OBD2 reader and oil temp was one of the parameters it was displaying; it has been sitting typically about 5-10F less than my coolant temps so I didn't think much about it since coolant temps are generally what I'm paying more attention to anyways. So I may need to retract what I said above; I'm not sure where the OBD2 is getting this oil temp data from but obviously this isn't the correct value as I don't have an aftermarket oil temp gauge.....
I just didn't second guess the display after plugging it in and seeing the oil temp available and trending how I would expect it to.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-04-2019 at 11:10 AM.
09-30-2019, 12:27 PM
She feels more "planted" and firm, and provides more feedback & grip in twists & turns. No noticeable vibration or rubbing.
I'd love if she were generating near 240 lbs. 
, but reality is she's nonetheless a blast to drive and this result is more consistent w/ the power level I've been seeing at my current boost level.
Team,
So, the odyssey began.
