Ordered the plate for the exhaust but it hasn't come in yet so I put the pump in for now.

Also seems my turn signal circuit is giving me problems. Ill have to dig down deeper. Hopefully it's just a plug.

All headlights function fine.

 

Any S2 owners agree that the trans fill point seem low. Only 1.4 qts yet you can fill it from the shifter too. I know that's the amount, just want to put more in

 

Diagnostics Time

Symptoms:

Car cranks but wont fire, if the ignition is left on to long my interior starts going nuts. I see door and dome lights flashing and here relays clicking in all corners of the car.

Key out of the ignition I have two dash lights on, headlights and door adjar lights

No codes are read, all grounds and connections seem good. Car is getting fuel, no doubt by now its flooded I will have to pull the plugs and see. I do not think it is getting spark. Brand New BHR kit, good ground right to the battery and still nothing.

I am kinda stumped here, never seen this one before, its always my luck to have electrical problems which I hate more than anything.

 

What's your battery voltage?

 

It was fully charged, but them I was messing around and cranking for a bit so it may be depleted, charger is back on it with a 2A charge so giving it a bit and then I will do more, initially it just didn't start. After a while I started getting the clicking noise.

Also no fuses are blown

 

Low voltage can cause the strange relay light flashing....make sure the harness is connected at the fuse box..and the battery is charged...and check the voltage. If the battery is weak with the LS coils at stock dwell it can make the starting spark weak

 

How do I verify spark?

 

You can get a spark tester...ideal...

Or do the old dangle the grounded plug thing

I would check the B+ voltage first.....

 

13.2 volts

Same problems, interior clicking.

I dont understand why my door ajar light and headlights dash lights are on.

 

Also might be worth noting that if I

Turn the headlights on
or
Open the rear door.

The clicking stops

 

Might be something in the immobilizer...is the "key" light flashing?

I had a problem with mine...try unlocking it with the key fob and see if that resets it

 

If it was the immobilizer it would not crank nor get fuel, and the light goes out once I turn the key.

 

One light down!

Turns out the break pedal switch is faulty (there is a note in the FSM that it can become damaged if removed..............I removed it) So after disconnecting that switch the headlight switch is off.

Now this damn door ajar light.

I noticed that when I open the doors it gets brighter when the doors are closed it is on but it is dimmed slightly.

I would also like to note that I have my OBD plug on a switch as I have a WIFI dongle and it would constantly drain my battery, so I just cut the 12v supply and but a switch on it, well I realized that when I went to reattach it I did not connect the right wires and gave it a 9V wire instead.

This is when I started getting the door ajar light but I don't understand how giving it 9V instead of 12V could have damaged something. Its on the Room fuse circuit so I will research into that.

I really hope I don't need a new BCM or gauge cluster

 

Not an easy internet fix I would recheck the wire-around...and then I guess you have a date with a multimeter and the wiring diagram

 

Yup, why couldn't it be mechanical.

Electrical problems I am more concerned over than figuring out the spark issue. I can fix that once I know all the electrical systems are working fine.

 

Brand new engines are hard to turn over period, your battery needs to be damn near 14 volts with all the cranking amps you can get.

even with a full battery I hooked up a battery jump box because of the excessive cranking so I would not loose all the charge.

I also have the old starter too.
don't be afraid to crank on it for a while either.

 

Brand new S2 starter, spins beautifully. Its just not sparking trust me I was cranking

Im almost positive this last dash light is a control unit, had a similar problem with my speed 6 years ago, long story short they replaced both my cluster and BCM.
This is going to suck.

 

Pulled the plugs, checked for spark...Nothing.

Put OE coils on....Same problem

 

Is your eccentric shaft sensor plugged in?
Did you do the twenty break stomps?

 

Sensors plugged in. I attempted the brake stomps. But since whenever I plug the brake pedal switch in I get a dash light and my brake lights stay on constantly I think it's not registering.

Would this prevent the coils from firing if the position sensor is not reset properly?

Also I'm going to test the signals going to the coils. Anyone have any idea what I should be seeing?

 

After some much need R&R this weekend I have come up with the ESS as the culprit, I have verified no coils OE or BHR are firing and that no signal is being sent to them. I also have a hunch that even though the fuel system is pressurizing the injectors are not firing either, as none of the plugs smell of fuel.

It boils down to clearing the NVRAM which would be easy, if my brake light switch was not broken from removing it , ordered a new switch and will have it later this week will try to bypass the switch and do it manually later today.

As far as the door ajar light, I have heard rumors of a TSB for diode replacement in the instrument cluster to solve this problem but can not find the TSB anywhere, has anyone else heard of this?

 

As far as this light goes, any chance you connected the switch to a poor ground? Also remember that switches have a very short period of jitter (can be see with an o-scope) which could cause some noise on the OBD data lines which could be causing the (false positive..) of the door being ajar. Again, it may not actually be the issue you are facing, but it is something to consider. Ideally, i would at least have a filter, or a switch with a built in filter to ensure that this isn't an issue in the future.

When I was doing some OBD2 development with some hardware, even the slightest ground noise would cause random dash lights to turn on.

 

I don't see a switch as being the culprit, my speed6 gave me the same problem and they ended up replacing the cluster. All the door switches work fine, when they open the light gets a full 12v but when all the doors are closed the light is still getting 4v back feed from a short somewhere, the light just dims when the doors close instead of turning off.

Everything works fine, doors lock, interior lights turn off, alarm arms and disarms. Just the light is annoying

 

Ah gotcha, yea figured it was a long shot but hey, you never know.

 

Trust me, I wish it was that easy