Should have let me make you one ;) Glad you got it fixed.

Plans tend to change as dates move forward.

I was only seeming confirmation since two recent posts were not in agreement with each other :dunno:

Unfortunately weather changed, I was not able to get a closed trailer and no dyno spots where available before my flight this Wednesday so it will have to wait until I return in the spring.

In July of last year I was reached out to by Charles (BHR) in regards to his then prototype designed long tube header. After some brief conversations about my car, setup and his views on the market and desired outputs it was agreed upon that I would be given the chance to get my hands on one of his products before it went to market. Ultimately 3 people including myself where chosen to field test a pre-market edition of this header, I have been in direct contact with the other two field testers (who at this time I will not divulge names, but if they feel to comment below that is their choice). So far to my knowledge this is the second header to be fit onto a S1 chassis, the first being the one Charles dyno tested some months back. Ultimately as my schedule shifts wildly depending on m business requirements I was only able to be home for a quick 4 weeks this December and have been avidly working on this since the start of the month.

Black Halo Long Tube Header, whats in the box?

• BHR Long Tube Header
• BHR Midpipe
• Engine-Header OR Gasket
• Engine-Header Nuts
• Header-Midpipe 2ply gasket
• Header-Midpipe Bolts
• Midpipe-Catback Donut Gasket
• Midpipe-Catback Spring Bolts

Install

My initial perception of the install was like most headers we have, drop the passenger motor mount remove the old install the new. Unfortunately this was not the case. In order to install the header I had to remove both motor mounts and push the engine to the drive side of the engine bay and it was a very tight fit, I did notice that if you remove the header stud from the bottom of the rear iron exhaust port that it frees up a lot of room on the install. Just be sure you install the stud again and sink it into the iron before you try to bolt the header to thee engine. Depending on individual skill level I would give this header a 2-4 hour install time depending if you have a lift or jackstands

Fitment

The header was originally designed on the chassis of a stock S1, then (and I may be wrong) transferred over to a jig to make the 3 pre-market products. As my car is no where near a stock S1 I did run into 2 installation fitment issues which did require some modifications in order to overcome.

The first fitment issue was the downstream O2 sensor would hit the tail of the S2 trans, as this was never tested with the bigger S2 trans, which has much more reinforced ribbing at the tail then the S1 trans this issue is due to this. A simple 15 degree rotation of the bung location can correct this issue, but as I did not have that option I decided to notch the trans ribbing enough to clear the end of the sensor loom.

Posting here for internal discussion that I do not want publicized in the official review but a place to put my own observations and discussion points.

Regarding the subframe fitment, I got pictures from the first prototype that was built on a chassis and have confirmed that my pre-market header and the other two released to the testers have a dimensional difference on the rear runner.

Prototype, runners are even in height.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...538/SLMlFF.jpg

Pre-market, the rear runner is stagger lower than the inner runner.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...673/dzYNDQ.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...537/QWqzyK.jpg

I have communicated to Charles and he is investigating and I have no doubt will have the issue rectified shortly. Until then we wait for the other two pre-market headers to be installed and confirm this finding.

On an unrelated side note, fire extinguisher and bracket are my next priority. It has been in my mind for some time now with all the additions to this car and added wiring etc. that is it ever caught on fire I would never get it back.

I have purchased an H3R Halotron extinguisher with their quick release mount and will be fabrication a passenger seat floor mount.

H3R Performance | HG250B - Halotron Fire Extinguisher - Black
NB300 Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Bracket | H3R Performance

That should be clean, that bracket is nice too. It should be fine, as Halotron I is rated A,B,C.

I wanted a no mess solution, I will also pick up one of their 5lbs for the trunk once I get around to doing that later this year.

Couple of recent progressions have come to light, through communication with BC I was arranged a new set of coilovers complete with testing, I also recieved my UAO from last oil change (slacking on that one)

Coilover Dyno Plot Top Front, Bottom Rear(2/10/15)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...673/yfYkE0.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...910/IYeWm5.jpg

UOA
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...540/Uqucrj.jpg

Lastly I have received my extinguisher and bracket, will be fabricating a passenger seat mount this weekend
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...673/0vgTXH.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...901/W1j8Py.jpg

And what everyone has been waiting for, my Dyno is scheduled for 3/19/15, had the car out running around today and the exhaust is much quieter and smoother throughout the rev range, AFR are right on my tune. Will have data and video's to be posted by the weekend.

Good luck, looking forward to you having some good results

Hey Carbon, nice to see progress in your build, looking forward to the Dyno numbers

Just finished compiling everything from today's session. Firstly some impressions and recap.

I have driven about 200 miles this week with the header install, with not adverse signs. AFR, LTFT, STFT, and everything else is dead on as well my heat shielding is holding up great and the notch for the downstream censor is working perfectly. As far as audio, this exhaust is much quieter than my previous straight pipe system (as expected) no drone, less rasp and all around sounds like a more mature system and have gotten many compliments on it.

As per the power output, a little back story. I am no longer doing my dyno's in 5th as the gear is to tall and deemed both to stressful on the motor and unsafe speeds on a dyno. So I have 4th gear Dyno's to compare. Now my car stock back in 2012 put down 214WHP and 141WTQ in 4th, last year after my rebuild and extensive NA build it managed 221WHP and 148WTQ (this is the Dyno I compare to) not only did my build yield some top end gains but was more impressive was the mid-range yield of about 8% from 3500 and up.

The below dyno is on a Mustang Dyno which made 223WHP and 154WTQ on the top end, and also yielded an additional 5% from 3800 and up. So on a heavily modified NA engine this product still manages to extract a noticeable increase in untapped potential.

My log graph, the AFR dips a little lower than my target (12.2) but nothing to drastic I may jump this up a bit at a later date but this was taken on the same tune I established last year. MAF readings in excess of 260G/sec

Here is the video as well.

On a side note, car has been coming together exceptionally nice lately, everything has been running dead on suspension is all fixed...........you know one of those its going to well things. So my check engine light decided to be a prick late tonight on my way home for an EVAP code :yelrotflm

Also looks like today marks the 3 year mark and 10,000 miles over ownership since I have purchased this car which is the longest I have ever owned a car, but at the same time I think my Bumper to Bumper expires soon. Might need to trade it in :lol:

Nice work man, not bad at all. Good to see it all come together.

good solid results, nothing to be ashamed of there :)

kind of thinking that you were expecting more, no?

I never expect much, to be honest I feel my Dyno's have always run high I mean 214WHP stock? I am waiting for the day when I go in and struggle to make 180 :lol:

But I will say everything has been very consistent. I will be venturing out in the area more this summer to get some other Dyno's to compare maybe find a Dynojet.

I am disappointing that I was not able to get a 5th gear pull but it was not a good time last year, any dyno pull over 1 min and temps in excess of 220 is not something I want to do again.

Another small project I have been working on as well is a fire extinguisher solution (surprised someone else hasn't come up with a bracket by now to be honest). I wanted something that was easily accessible and if ever needed would not be a hassle post use. So I picked up one of H3R Performance haltron units in a 2.5lb package, and one of their quick release bracket systems

H3R Performance | HG250B - Halotron Fire Extinguisher - Black
NB300 Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Bracket | H3R Performance

Found the time this weekend to mock up and fabricate a pretty basic passenger seat mount and fit it. Unfortunately with the extinguisher mounted on the bracket the seat will not be able to be adjusted from its utmost back position but a simple pull of the pin and taking off the extinguisher will render the seats normal function again. Figured in the 3 years of ownership I have never had a back seat passenger so "who cares" :dunno". All in all turned out great, and is now sitting waiting to go the PC once I get a couple more pieces I am waiting for.

*If you are interested in such a seat bracket please PM me, if I get enough interest I may be able to do a production run of these (Leave an email address to be contacted at).*

Is this on my last tune?

I think we can get some more, with all of your changes. Good gas, at 12.4 ish with some more timing and less split, might be worth a try.

Yes and no, you got busy last year so I took what I learned from you and did my own AF blending and timing. As we never got my misfire issue resolved before the season ended and then last year you got out of the tuning so I figured I would just kinda do it on my own :lol:

I can send you the map if you want to take a look.

Can't hurt.

DIY is the way to go long term. As you know, when tuning around and finding bad MAF's, O2 sensors etc, it is much cheaper to retune yourself.

Sent.

The leg work has been done, this 3 year build was started with an end goal. The end goal is now officially started with the recent purchase and acquisition of an FI kit.

Looking forward to another very busy, but hopefully smooth and last big build over the winter

A big thanks to Moon for providing a very detailed and top notch kit.

oh yeah congrats and much luck on your build

I have always had the understanding that 13.3 -13.5 had the highest power? Do you have some more info around this?

And would you be so kind and post a picture if the timing and split? I have WAY to little knowledge around this(Close to zero actually:scratchhe), and would really appreciate it.

Would be better answered in the tuning sub forum

AFR Values
6.0 AFR - Rich Burn Limit (engine fully warm)
9.0 AFR - Black Smoke / Low Power
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle
13.3 AFR - Lean Best Torque
14.6 AFR - Stoichiometric AFR (Stoich)
15.5 AFR - Lean Cruise
16.5 AFR - Usual Best Economy
18.0 AFR - Carbureted Lean Burn Limit
22.0+ AFR - EEC / EFI Lean Burn Limit

Thanks, I was a bit inaccurate regarding what I was totally lost at; I was wondering about how AFR inflicts on timing advance and split timing. I got the understanding that by having a richer mixture than ±13:1, you could do some things with these two to improve performance slightly..?

By the way, optimal AFR looks to be slightly different from engine to engine, therefore many numbers are flying around on the interwebz. Attached are a paper from Toyota.

Again I would direct this towards the tuning section.

Series I Engine Tuning Forum - RX8Club.com

More specifically

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...urther-253444/

How do you like the Megan Racing suspension parts? I was looking at them, but wanted to find out what other companies had parts available for it. Any pointers?

In hind sight I would stick with OE, and if I do anything in the future I will go back to those (Probably the Mazdatrix modified OE bars). Megan has never been a company known for their quality but for what they charge for these bars I would expect more. The hardware corrodes fast, they do not provide flange nuts with their hub connectors so I almost lost a wheel because of the sleeve backing out over only 300 miles of driving so you need to re-use your OE hub nuts.

Their is more than enough adjustment available on OE bars to render these useless unless your slammed in which case you do not care about function anyways.

Mazdatrix doesn't modify those. They are coming from Mazda Motorsports and made by SpeedSource I believe ...

An NA Renesis makes the best power running leaner than the AFRs noted above.

Looking for some help, been struggling to get an inspection done before I start my SC build and have had problem after problem.

Swapped, currently getting a P2270 and -12% LTFT (at idle) but AFR is fine and STFT are 0 to -2%. I am thinking I have an exhaust leak on my EGR tube causing this issue.

Recently the only systems I have touched is swap back my OE header and CAT, which included taking my intake off (but I only touched two clamps on that so doubt I hav a vacuum leak as I still pull dead 5.5g/sec)

On other side notes, my rear disc has cracked (after 5K miles) and a oil cooler core has ruptured. So I am having a good time :lol:

P2270 is showing for the rear 02 sensor. You might not have it plugged in correct or maybe pulled a wire loose. Why don't you just block the code? That is one of the recommended MM codes to block. Team has posted it a few times here and there also.

Its not about blocking codes, its about getting monitors ready, if I block the code but internally the code is supposed to trigger or something in the system is not working correctly the monitor will not become active.

Plus this is not a code that I would block and ignore when my LTFT have a problem.

The rear sensor has no known connection to fuel trims. Supposedly with all the MM codes blocked your car will reach readynes. Even without the rear 02 sensor and air pump. I am running with all those codes blocked and no rear 02 or air pump currently. I'll see if I can pass or not in july.

Silly Qs, have you cleaned and checked mounting of MAF sensor, vac tubes connections and AEM mesh screen positions (they can dislodge on install causing crazy trims)?

You need to clear the fuel trims, then monitor/log them as it starts to correct to see what's going on with AFR, stft, etc. Also need to keep an eye on coolant level to make sure your not losing any internally in the engine.

I think the LTFT are going to turn out to be a tune, I forgot I was on the OE tune when I pulled those, going to my tune with a cleared table the where at -3%, but I also think I have a leak in my air tube of the header.

Now just waiting on parts..........................

You went to all that trouble just to put it up for sale instead? Wow ...

Logically it makes sense to me at this time in my life......I doubt it will sell and will continue to stay in my garage under the cover for the next couple of years before I care about it.

In a different place in my life, if it sells it sells. If it doesn't I'm fine leaving it covered for a couple years.

It's a good price, should sell for that ....

Sad to hear you are selling it, great car for the price.

That alternator is a thing of beauty. *As well as the rest but that just sticks out.

Just finished reading this thread from start to end. Amazing amount of sweat, blood and tears into this project.

I've never seen so much passion for a car, i feel the same way but the only difference is that i don't have that much money to invest in the car for now. I love my 8 and even though it gives me a lot of issues i will not let my car down as my first i will tune it and keep it for fun.

End of a chapter, Car was picked up on 11/9/16. Was an awesome project and a pleasure to own. On to other things, hoping for another rotary in my not to distant future.

Ill still be around every once in a while, feel free to PM me with anything.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...905/wks4Hs.jpg

Hopefully the next owner is on here to give us some updates on it.