Bridgeport RX8
#577
Phone Booth'd
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Cincinnasty
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We'll definitely have to hang more next year. Maybe I can sneak down to your neck of the woods if there's a gathering down there sometime.
Here's the results of our quickie shoot. They're all downloadable. If you want the raw files, just shoot me a pm.
http://gallery.me.com/martinkt#10037...or=black&sel=0
Here's the results of our quickie shoot. They're all downloadable. If you want the raw files, just shoot me a pm.
http://gallery.me.com/martinkt#10037...or=black&sel=0
#583
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
SSV valve is sticking when it's cold, and VDI seems to be stuck too.
I have a catch can in the mail, so I'll clean out the intake and the valves, and then I have to figure out my idle issues.
Currently the idle is set at 1500. I want it set at 1200, but at 1200 once the car gets warm, it dies. At 1500 when it gets warm the idle surges to 2000 so you get this constant *** hole pop rev going on... Any suggestions besides cleaning the valves?
I figure after I clean the intake and valves, I'll do a full vacuum check, then check the AC lines (I read some post that low AC coolant can cause surging). I'm trying to eliminate everything but the neutral switch. Mazda wants $350 for that bastard...
I have a catch can in the mail, so I'll clean out the intake and the valves, and then I have to figure out my idle issues.
Currently the idle is set at 1500. I want it set at 1200, but at 1200 once the car gets warm, it dies. At 1500 when it gets warm the idle surges to 2000 so you get this constant *** hole pop rev going on... Any suggestions besides cleaning the valves?
I figure after I clean the intake and valves, I'll do a full vacuum check, then check the AC lines (I read some post that low AC coolant can cause surging). I'm trying to eliminate everything but the neutral switch. Mazda wants $350 for that bastard...
#585
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
I'm in Nashville TN our local dealer can kinda be a douche. Would it for sure be the neutral switch? It seems to stop surging when the temp drops, or while it's still warming up, but it doesn't stop when I engage the clutch peddle. If you're sure that's the problem though, I'll pick the switch up through a friend and bypass the inflated dealer.
#588
Registered
Pardon me for jumping in. I have not followed all of these threads prior to this. If you are talking about breaking a motor in and have 900 miles on it you are PERFECTLY fine to beat the **** out of that sucker. The primary reason for break-in procedure is for bearings and seals. If you reused both of them they are already seated and after an hour of initial warm up and some revs you are perfectly fine to freakin beat on it. I say this with much, much, much experience. 30+ Renesis motors worth. I am confident that there is no additional value to a longer break-in period with a rotary engine. I welcome technical input on this matter so I may learn something. We've been short and sweet for the past few years and things have been fine.
#589
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Pardon me for jumping in. I have not followed all of these threads prior to this. If you are talking about breaking a motor in and have 900 miles on it you are PERFECTLY fine to beat the **** out of that sucker. The primary reason for break-in procedure is for bearings and seals. If you reused both of them they are already seated and after an hour of initial warm up and some revs you are perfectly fine to freakin beat on it. I say this with much, much, much experience. 30+ Renesis motors worth. I am confident that there is no additional value to a longer break-in period with a rotary engine. I welcome technical input on this matter so I may learn something. We've been short and sweet for the past few years and things have been fine.
#590
Registered
zoom zoom
e
#591
Boostin'
Pardon me for jumping in. I have not followed all of these threads prior to this. If you are talking about breaking a motor in and have 900 miles on it you are PERFECTLY fine to beat the **** out of that sucker. The primary reason for break-in procedure is for bearings and seals. If you reused both of them they are already seated and after an hour of initial warm up and some revs you are perfectly fine to freakin beat on it. I say this with much, much, much experience. 30+ Renesis motors worth. I am confident that there is no additional value to a longer break-in period with a rotary engine. I welcome technical input on this matter so I may learn something. We've been short and sweet for the past few years and things have been fine.
#592
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Scientific method: take one of the valve hoses off (not from teh actual valve itself---the other end) and blow or suck on it. The valve will actuate or not. It is rather easy to hook up the vac lines on the bottom of the black upper intake backwards. I'm sure you already know that but check those as well. We have labeled all these crazy things to avoid that jazz (because we have accidently switched them before). Another thing you may want to do (assuming you haven't already) is pull off the black upper intake, peek down into the LIM intake air path and make sure they cylindrical valves are clocked properly. This is hard to mess up but if you rebuilt these/took them apart it can be put together incorrectly rather easily.
zoom zoom
e
zoom zoom
e
I have to call Exody too, my clutch engages right on the floor.
#594
I think the problem is that once you start idling in closed loop, the targets are too lean. Stock is mostly leaner than lambda in closed loop up to 1500rpm.
Try these settings, and see if you can reduce your idle. It should lower the AFR to around 14:1 at idle.
Edit: Alternatively, if you pull the air pump relay, and ground the control wire that goes to the ECU, it will always stay in open loop under 2000rpm. Just pick the right wire or you'll blow a fuse, and no I don't remember which one it is. I don't think you will want to do this, just an alternative.
Last edited by oltmann; 05-20-2011 at 07:10 PM. Reason: also...
#599
No dyno yet? What's the general drivability like? what is the fuel consumption like? I know that's not the primary reason for this but I'd be interested nonetheless.
#600
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Going to be a little while on dyno. Fiancee would kill me. We're getting married in Sept, so most of our money is going to that, but there is a chance that it will get done before then.
Drivability is fine. I guess I'm not really sure what your asking, but tuning is a must.
Fuel consumption... hard to say with it not all that tuned yet. I'm still getting 200+ miles per tank so it's not terrible.
Drivability is fine. I guess I'm not really sure what your asking, but tuning is a must.
Fuel consumption... hard to say with it not all that tuned yet. I'm still getting 200+ miles per tank so it's not terrible.