Bridgeport RX8
#629
i thought id let those who want to know, i dropped of my rx8 at my mechanic to fit the new ecu. We are going for a stand alone ecu, which will be a haltech 2000 series. I will also be converting the car to cable throttle set up and removing the flybywire. It should be completed early next month.
#630
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
i thought id let those who want to know, i dropped of my rx8 at my mechanic to fit the new ecu. We are going for a stand alone ecu, which will be a haltech 2000 series. I will also be converting the car to cable throttle set up and removing the flybywire. It should be completed early next month.
so..... bridgeported?
#631
I have a rx8 bridgeport. It was built late Dec and ive just finished running it in. I am currently waiting for Haltech to release there plugin ecu that works with the factory flybywire. The car is still using the factor ecu. I have a racing beat intake, 2inch headers merging into a 2.75 collector, from there its a single 3inch exh with a custom hand made muffler behind the rear bar with a 3.5inch inside exiting with dual 3.5in tips.
The car has alot more pick up every where. I also believe its a secondary bridgeport. the exhaust ports have been ported extensively too. Ben Hunt from Rotary motorsport built my motor. Very happy with it so far. Has done 2000kms (i basically replaced all parts in the motor). Starts first go and sounds very nice. I will update once its tuned.
h.
The car has alot more pick up every where. I also believe its a secondary bridgeport. the exhaust ports have been ported extensively too. Ben Hunt from Rotary motorsport built my motor. Very happy with it so far. Has done 2000kms (i basically replaced all parts in the motor). Starts first go and sounds very nice. I will update once its tuned.
h.
#632
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Mine's running pretty good, but I've been WAY too busy to get anything done tuning wise. It's been one thing after another at home, and most of my free time has been taken up with rebuilding Rotary Recycle's website. So I'll make it back around to it as soon as I have a free minute, but I also brought my RX7 home, so I have to start tearing that down for the body work and prepping the chassis for the roll cage, and 20b swap.
lol... I have too many projects.
lol... I have too many projects.
#633
Lucky #33
iTrader: (4)
Mine's running pretty good, but I've been WAY too busy to get anything done tuning wise. It's been one thing after another at home, and most of my free time has been taken up with rebuilding Rotary Recycle's website. So I'll make it back around to it as soon as I have a free minute, but I also brought my RX7 home, so I have to start tearing that down for the body work and prepping the chassis for the roll cage, and 20b swap.
lol... I have too many projects.
lol... I have too many projects.
Thats funny. I just put in an offer for a FD... it would not need much work though.
#636
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
It's going to be a tough decision cause I can only go one route... If only I could afford two 20b toys....
#641
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Some of us have better things to do with our time and money. Wasting $100 on disputably correct numbers for bragging rights proves nothing about the effectiveness of a bridge port. You need a before and after comparison in the same car, with the same setup (outside the engine) and very similar weather conditions, other wise you're proving nothing. Dyno's are a tuning tool to compare a start to a finish. The number they spit out independent of that means nothing, and is easily disputable.
If you want some hard facts on a bridge port, accept the fact that on my mildly tuned bridge that I have over 14,000 miles, I get 260 Miles to a tank on the interstate cruising at around 75~80, I get 220 miles to a tank on average in my daily commute, and the power curve doesn't seem to drop off dramatically at 8.5k RPM like a stock port engine. In other words, it pushes out the power band to higher revs which is the predictable behavior of a bridge port.
I'll run a dyno log eventually, someday. But I'm in no hurry to blow $100 to maybe confirm that on that particular run / dyno that I'm pulling between 210~230HP. If I had to guess, it's probably around 215 HP or so.
You're not going to make a lot more power with a bridge port, and the overlap created isn't enough for the engine to "lope". So if you're fine with a LITTLE more power NA, and a LITTLE deeper exhaust note, then a bridge may be fore you, otherwise, go FI and move along.
If you want some hard facts on a bridge port, accept the fact that on my mildly tuned bridge that I have over 14,000 miles, I get 260 Miles to a tank on the interstate cruising at around 75~80, I get 220 miles to a tank on average in my daily commute, and the power curve doesn't seem to drop off dramatically at 8.5k RPM like a stock port engine. In other words, it pushes out the power band to higher revs which is the predictable behavior of a bridge port.
I'll run a dyno log eventually, someday. But I'm in no hurry to blow $100 to maybe confirm that on that particular run / dyno that I'm pulling between 210~230HP. If I had to guess, it's probably around 215 HP or so.
You're not going to make a lot more power with a bridge port, and the overlap created isn't enough for the engine to "lope". So if you're fine with a LITTLE more power NA, and a LITTLE deeper exhaust note, then a bridge may be fore you, otherwise, go FI and move along.
#643
RX8 and a Truk....
#644
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
After the last 2 years of having this engine, I'm just tired of the comments like fastlaneracing posted, as if I'm so how obligated to run numbers and burn money to prove something to people not willing to drop the money themselves, knowing that my setup is reliable and running well. Obviously porting will increase power, and obviously the increase is negligible, otherwise the setup that Eric Mayer was testing would have been a bigger deal. To me the observational data is more important than a skewed dyno graph that proves nothing about a cars actual performance characteristics.
People just aren't willing to accept, that for an NA Renesis, there's NOTHING you can do to make a LOT more power. I would estimate that with an unlimited budget while maintaining the engines natural operation (side ports) that the max potential is probably around 240HP or so... but the bill on that engine wouldn't be worth the measly power gains.
#645
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
For what I've sunk into this RX8, could have had my 3rotor assembled for my FC already... That's life though. I'm starting on the 7 soon.
#648
Some of us have better things to do with our time and money. Wasting $100 on disputably correct numbers for bragging rights proves nothing about the effectiveness of a bridge port. You need a before and after comparison in the same car, with the same setup (outside the engine) and very similar weather conditions, other wise you're proving nothing. Dyno's are a tuning tool to compare a start to a finish. The number they spit out independent of that means nothing, and is easily disputable.
If you want some hard facts on a bridge port, accept the fact that on my mildly tuned bridge that I have over 14,000 miles, I get 260 Miles to a tank on the interstate cruising at around 75~80, I get 220 miles to a tank on average in my daily commute, and the power curve doesn't seem to drop off dramatically at 8.5k RPM like a stock port engine. In other words, it pushes out the power band to higher revs which is the predictable behavior of a bridge port.
I'll run a dyno log eventually, someday. But I'm in no hurry to blow $100 to maybe confirm that on that particular run / dyno that I'm pulling between 210~230HP. If I had to guess, it's probably around 215 HP or so.
You're not going to make a lot more power with a bridge port, and the overlap created isn't enough for the engine to "lope". So if you're fine with a LITTLE more power NA, and a LITTLE deeper exhaust note, then a bridge may be fore you, otherwise, go FI and move along.
If you want some hard facts on a bridge port, accept the fact that on my mildly tuned bridge that I have over 14,000 miles, I get 260 Miles to a tank on the interstate cruising at around 75~80, I get 220 miles to a tank on average in my daily commute, and the power curve doesn't seem to drop off dramatically at 8.5k RPM like a stock port engine. In other words, it pushes out the power band to higher revs which is the predictable behavior of a bridge port.
I'll run a dyno log eventually, someday. But I'm in no hurry to blow $100 to maybe confirm that on that particular run / dyno that I'm pulling between 210~230HP. If I had to guess, it's probably around 215 HP or so.
You're not going to make a lot more power with a bridge port, and the overlap created isn't enough for the engine to "lope". So if you're fine with a LITTLE more power NA, and a LITTLE deeper exhaust note, then a bridge may be fore you, otherwise, go FI and move along.
JK!
There has been a few bridge ports going on here and it would be interesting to see what the differance would be.
#649
EveryonesFavouritePenguin
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Who does something like that to their engine, and then doesn dyno/tune it? That makes absolutely no sense to me. Spending thousands of dollars only to say 'yep, it's better' and not have any idea how much better, where it's better (torque/hp curve) and all that is baffling.
The argument 'some of us have better things to do' doesn't work when you spend thousands of dollars and hours and hours on something like rebuilding your engine. If you had better things to do, it's not likely that you'd be building an engine in the first place.
The argument 'some of us have better things to do' doesn't work when you spend thousands of dollars and hours and hours on something like rebuilding your engine. If you had better things to do, it's not likely that you'd be building an engine in the first place.
#650
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Who does something like that to their engine, and then doesn dyno/tune it? That makes absolutely no sense to me. Spending thousands of dollars only to say 'yep, it's better' and not have any idea how much better, where it's better (torque/hp curve) and all that is baffling.
The argument 'some of us have better things to do' doesn't work when you spend thousands of dollars and hours and hours on something like rebuilding your engine. If you had better things to do, it's not likely that you'd be building an engine in the first place.
The argument 'some of us have better things to do' doesn't work when you spend thousands of dollars and hours and hours on something like rebuilding your engine. If you had better things to do, it's not likely that you'd be building an engine in the first place.
So we're looking at 8 hours labor, and $2,500? If you think that's a lot of money / time to spend on necessary maintenance, or a basic rebuild, then you have the wrong hobby. To me, $500~$700 was worth the risk to invest in port work, but that's all the additional money I was out.
You don't need a dyno to tune a car. Again, a dyno sheet is useless without something to compare it to. What if I posted a sheet showing 250 WHP? People would scream foul. Now take into account that under similar conditions I posted my factory engine with 230 WHP. Now you can see that the bridge was good for a 20 HP gain because you have something to compare to.
I prefer my engine to last. I rather it be tuned for reliability as opposed to max power. An engine that only lasts 5,000 miles is useless to me. I'll gladly take a 10 HP gain with 20,000+ miles over a 20 HP gain and only 5,000 miles. This is basic tuning theory, and every tuner has a different stopping point between reliability and max power.
Do I need more tuning? Yes.
Is it going to add a LOT more power? No
I trust a dyno sheet to tell me how much power I'm making about as far as I can ball it up and throw it.
fastlaneracing,
I agree. I would like to see some before and after dynos, all conditions equal, and see what it really does for the overall power band and output. I think what we'd see though is a higher power band (more power at high RPMs) and small power gain. I honestly don't think you're going to see more than a 20 HP gain (NA) from these ports, and I think 20 HP is generous.
The question becomes, is 10~20 HP (NA) worth $500~$700 plus shipping to you?