Slowly building mine! Pics soon to come.

 

Can't wait to see man!

 

Hows yours coming along?

 

i thought id let those who want to know, i dropped of my rx8 at my mechanic to fit the new ecu. We are going for a stand alone ecu, which will be a haltech 2000 series. I will also be converting the car to cable throttle set up and removing the flybywire. It should be completed early next month.

 

so..... bridgeported?

 

yes

 

Mine's running pretty good, but I've been WAY too busy to get anything done tuning wise. It's been one thing after another at home, and most of my free time has been taken up with rebuilding Rotary Recycle's website. So I'll make it back around to it as soon as I have a free minute, but I also brought my RX7 home, so I have to start tearing that down for the body work and prepping the chassis for the roll cage, and 20b swap.

lol... I have too many projects.

 

Thats funny. I just put in an offer for a FD... it would not need much work though.

 

Nice, mine's an FC though. I'm back and forth on what I want to do with the 20b... I cant decide on a big turbo 700HP monster or 300~400 HP NA... I can't make up my mind. The car will be for SCCA Hillclimb / TT racing.

 

Man how much fun would it be to have a Screaming NA 20b with a bridgeport and individual throttle body's.

 

It would, but the sheer amount of modifications to the car may make the NA un/less competitive going up against the other race modified cars (hard to say). I have a little more flexibility with power and log term reliability with the FI over NA. Also with NA, you have to be a lot more **** with intake and exhaust design to really take advantage of the setup. I'd also be a little hesitant to BP the thick center iron mainly due to it's cost alone to replace WHEN it does fail. With a true BP (not like our small renny BPs), it's just a matter of time. You probably have 10k miles on a GOOD build tops, and i'm sure that would be a lot of babying it.

It's going to be a tough decision cause I can only go one route... If only I could afford two 20b toys....

 

27 pages and still no dyno with an tuned bride renny?

How sad..

 

yes it is.

 

coming soon, sometime in july

 

Very cool! Ill be interested to see the results. Red and I had our BP's done by the same guy.

What is your plan of attack for tuning?

I hope to get my engine in over the course of the next few weeks and will be tuning in July.

 

Some of us have better things to do with our time and money. Wasting $100 on disputably correct numbers for bragging rights proves nothing about the effectiveness of a bridge port. You need a before and after comparison in the same car, with the same setup (outside the engine) and very similar weather conditions, other wise you're proving nothing. Dyno's are a tuning tool to compare a start to a finish. The number they spit out independent of that means nothing, and is easily disputable.

If you want some hard facts on a bridge port, accept the fact that on my mildly tuned bridge that I have over 14,000 miles, I get 260 Miles to a tank on the interstate cruising at around 75~80, I get 220 miles to a tank on average in my daily commute, and the power curve doesn't seem to drop off dramatically at 8.5k RPM like a stock port engine. In other words, it pushes out the power band to higher revs which is the predictable behavior of a bridge port.

I'll run a dyno log eventually, someday. But I'm in no hurry to blow $100 to maybe confirm that on that particular run / dyno that I'm pulling between 210~230HP. If I had to guess, it's probably around 215 HP or so.

You're not going to make a lot more power with a bridge port, and the overlap created isn't enough for the engine to "lope". So if you're fine with a LITTLE more power NA, and a LITTLE deeper exhaust note, then a bridge may be fore you, otherwise, go FI and move along.

 

It is my plan to produce some numbers.

I am excited to see how the BP affects my turbo. I hope for a bit faster spool and a hair more mid range power.

 

Just getting wheel horsepower equal to OEM flywheel HP is a nice bump. Well done.

 

You'll get that for sure. Probably more top end than mid, but you'll still get a gain in the mid range.

After the last 2 years of having this engine, I'm just tired of the comments like fastlaneracing posted, as if I'm so how obligated to run numbers and burn money to prove something to people not willing to drop the money themselves, knowing that my setup is reliable and running well. Obviously porting will increase power, and obviously the increase is negligible, otherwise the setup that Eric Mayer was testing would have been a bigger deal. To me the observational data is more important than a skewed dyno graph that proves nothing about a cars actual performance characteristics.

People just aren't willing to accept, that for an NA Renesis, there's NOTHING you can do to make a LOT more power. I would estimate that with an unlimited budget while maintaining the engines natural operation (side ports) that the max potential is probably around 240HP or so... but the bill on that engine wouldn't be worth the measly power gains.

 

Yep, I'm pleased with the car. It's my daily, so it's a battle everything I have money in my pocket to just leave the car alone... lol.

For what I've sunk into this RX8, could have had my 3rotor assembled for my FC already... That's life though. I'm starting on the 7 soon.

 

reddozen how much miles to a tank did you get before the bp? just to get an idea how it affects consumption..

 

Very similar actually. I think the best I got was around 265 or so, and I averaged 230~240 a tank. I lost more city miles than highway miles.

 

Thanks for the lession, how about that dyno?

JK!

There has been a few bridge ports going on here and it would be interesting to see what the differance would be.

 

Who does something like that to their engine, and then doesn dyno/tune it? That makes absolutely no sense to me. Spending thousands of dollars only to say 'yep, it's better' and not have any idea how much better, where it's better (torque/hp curve) and all that is baffling.

The argument 'some of us have better things to do' doesn't work when you spend thousands of dollars and hours and hours on something like rebuilding your engine. If you had better things to do, it's not likely that you'd be building an engine in the first place.

 

I needed a new engine, and I had been wanting BDC to do a BP for me a while, so I put in an order. $2,500 including short block, port work, and a rebuild kit is pretty normal. I have a Mazda reman sitting on the floor for a back up in case it did puke after 5,000 miles. $2,500 is pretty average in terms of a quality rebuild, so I'm not sure where you're "thousands of dollars and hours and hours" comes from. Considering it was a necessary rebuild, so I was going to have to spend at least $2,000 for a quality job to begin with. As far as time... MAYBE an hour to stack the motor, 6 hours (tops) to pull and replace a block if you're lazy. It's honestly a weekend beer drinking, cutting up with friends job.

So we're looking at 8 hours labor, and $2,500? If you think that's a lot of money / time to spend on necessary maintenance, or a basic rebuild, then you have the wrong hobby. To me, $500~$700 was worth the risk to invest in port work, but that's all the additional money I was out.

You don't need a dyno to tune a car. Again, a dyno sheet is useless without something to compare it to. What if I posted a sheet showing 250 WHP? People would scream foul. Now take into account that under similar conditions I posted my factory engine with 230 WHP. Now you can see that the bridge was good for a 20 HP gain because you have something to compare to.

I prefer my engine to last. I rather it be tuned for reliability as opposed to max power. An engine that only lasts 5,000 miles is useless to me. I'll gladly take a 10 HP gain with 20,000+ miles over a 20 HP gain and only 5,000 miles. This is basic tuning theory, and every tuner has a different stopping point between reliability and max power.

Do I need more tuning? Yes.
Is it going to add a LOT more power? No

I trust a dyno sheet to tell me how much power I'm making about as far as I can ball it up and throw it.


fastlaneracing,
I agree. I would like to see some before and after dynos, all conditions equal, and see what it really does for the overall power band and output. I think what we'd see though is a higher power band (more power at high RPMs) and small power gain. I honestly don't think you're going to see more than a 20 HP gain (NA) from these ports, and I think 20 HP is generous.

The question becomes, is 10~20 HP (NA) worth $500~$700 plus shipping to you?