Thanks again for the pics. That shot looks great. Sorry we had to rush out so fast.... you know how it is when your girl is ready to go...

We'll have to hang out more next year. I can't wait to finish tuning this thing... I want to see what it'll do.

 

We'll definitely have to hang more next year. Maybe I can sneak down to your neck of the woods if there's a gathering down there sometime.

Here's the results of our quickie shoot. They're all downloadable. If you want the raw files, just shoot me a pm.

http://gallery.me.com/martinkt#10037...or=black&sel=0

 

Thats freaking clean man

 

Thanks!
I like the stock base model look.

I may get a chin spoiler or make one, and maybe a rear bumper to get rid of the ugly plastic crap back there, but It'll most likely stay pretty stock looking.

 

I added all the pics to an album.

 

excellent.

Did I mention that I think the gold lip looks killer?

They look even better in person

 

July 16th and 17th. Import Alliance Summer meet. There was like 1000+ cars there last year. Look them up on facebook. It's the biggest import show in our area every year.

 

SSV valve is sticking when it's cold, and VDI seems to be stuck too.
I have a catch can in the mail, so I'll clean out the intake and the valves, and then I have to figure out my idle issues.

Currently the idle is set at 1500. I want it set at 1200, but at 1200 once the car gets warm, it dies. At 1500 when it gets warm the idle surges to 2000 so you get this constant *** hole pop rev going on... Any suggestions besides cleaning the valves?

I figure after I clean the intake and valves, I'll do a full vacuum check, then check the AC lines (I read some post that low AC coolant can cause surging). I'm trying to eliminate everything but the neutral switch. Mazda wants $350 for that bastard...

 

negative on the AC freon (not coolant)

neutral switch MSRP is only $65 (part# Y611-17-640), what area are you in?

 

I'm in Nashville TN our local dealer can kinda be a douche. Would it for sure be the neutral switch? It seems to stop surging when the temp drops, or while it's still warming up, but it doesn't stop when I engage the clutch peddle. If you're sure that's the problem though, I'll pick the switch up through a friend and bypass the inflated dealer.

 

I'm not saying anything other than it doesn't cost anywhere near $350, whether or not you need it is beyond my capability to determine over teh intrawebz, particualrly given your internal BP mod

 

fair enough. I probably just misread your post at 5am...

 

Pardon me for jumping in. I have not followed all of these threads prior to this. If you are talking about breaking a motor in and have 900 miles on it you are PERFECTLY fine to beat the **** out of that sucker. The primary reason for break-in procedure is for bearings and seals. If you reused both of them they are already seated and after an hour of initial warm up and some revs you are perfectly fine to freakin beat on it. I say this with much, much, much experience. 30+ Renesis motors worth. I am confident that there is no additional value to a longer break-in period with a rotary engine. I welcome technical input on this matter so I may learn something. We've been short and sweet for the past few years and things have been fine.

 

Oh yea, I would agree... problem is that I think my SSV and VDI valves are sticking / stuck. So I can't quite get above 6000 RPM. Between that and idle issues, I've been trying to figure it all out.

 

Scientific method: take one of the valve hoses off (not from teh actual valve itself---the other end) and blow or suck on it. The valve will actuate or not. It is rather easy to hook up the vac lines on the bottom of the black upper intake backwards. I'm sure you already know that but check those as well. We have labeled all these crazy things to avoid that jazz (because we have accidently switched them before). Another thing you may want to do (assuming you haven't already) is pull off the black upper intake, peek down into the LIM intake air path and make sure they cylindrical valves are clocked properly. This is hard to mess up but if you rebuilt these/took them apart it can be put together incorrectly rather easily.

zoom zoom

e

 

That has been our same experience.

 

I've been putting off working on it, but as soon as my catch can is delivered (today or tomorrow) I'll start on it again. There's oil in my intake, so there's a good chance that it's plugged my valves. We'll find out this week.

I have to call Exody too, my clutch engages right on the floor.

 

Eric is correct.

B

 

During parts of warmup, idle is actually in open loop. I believe this is because that under normal conditions, the air pump would throw off closed loop by making the exhaust gas look lean while it is running.

I think the problem is that once you start idling in closed loop, the targets are too lean. Stock is mostly leaner than lambda in closed loop up to 1500rpm.

Try these settings, and see if you can reduce your idle. It should lower the AFR to around 14:1 at idle.



Edit: Alternatively, if you pull the air pump relay, and ground the control wire that goes to the ECU, it will always stay in open loop under 2000rpm. Just pick the right wire or you'll blow a fuse, and no I don't remember which one it is. I don't think you will want to do this, just an alternative.

 

My mistake, didn't read that you already had CL/idle tuned. You should post some data logs, it might help someone see an issue.

 

I'll work on something like that once i get the SSV / VDI problems resolved. I'm tired of working on it tonight, it's all cleaned, and seafoamed, so all i have to do is start it in the morning and see what happens.

 

SSV and VDI fixed and working... It pulls harder than I imagined it would. Butt dyno says it's similar to my friends 260HP MR2...

Now to figure out the surging idle, finish tuning and dyno.

 

Congrats! Looking forward to your future posts.

 

No dyno yet? What's the general drivability like? what is the fuel consumption like? I know that's not the primary reason for this but I'd be interested nonetheless.

 

Going to be a little while on dyno. Fiancee would kill me. We're getting married in Sept, so most of our money is going to that, but there is a chance that it will get done before then.

Drivability is fine. I guess I'm not really sure what your asking, but tuning is a must.

Fuel consumption... hard to say with it not all that tuned yet. I'm still getting 200+ miles per tank so it's not terrible.