Bridgeport RX8
04-22-2011, 08:59 AM
#551
Apparently my friend helping me with everything didn't make sure the line "snapped" in... So the fuel issue is resolved. now I just have to deal with it running like ***. seems to be fine above idle, so I just have to tune the idle before i really drive it. It's pretty throaty with the HKS Hi-Power. I'll post some more info tonight if I get time. I have to work on some things for DGRR.
It took me about 100 miles before my engine was doing ok at idle. I would raise the idle up a bit, to be honest my idle didn't get cleaned up until it got raised to 900 with the AP.
even then it was choppy, that's when I found the apv gear set to start at fully open.
Last edited by shadycrew31; 04-22-2011 at 09:03 AM.
04-22-2011, 04:22 PM
#552
It took me about 100 miles before my engine was doing ok at idle. I would raise the idle up a bit, to be honest my idle didn't get cleaned up until it got raised to 900 with the AP.
even then it was choppy, that's when I found the apv gear set to start at fully open.
even then it was choppy, that's when I found the apv gear set to start at fully open.
Question... if i plug my lappy into the car, "connect to the ecu" and edit things in race tuner, does that automatically save it to the ecu, or is there something else i need to do? also, I don't remember how to lean out the air on idle... is that just in the closed loop table for the RPM range? I noticed something for idle, but I cant lower the value below 0.75, so I duno.
Also, do you have problems with kinda slow cranking? Do I need to upgrade the starter to make it more efficient, or is there a way to tune that too?
04-22-2011, 04:31 PM
#553
04-22-2011, 05:09 PM
#554
I think I have it set at 1100 right now. How hard / how did you set your APV to stay open, or did you set it in the access port?
Question... if i plug my lappy into the car, "connect to the ecu" and edit things in race tuner, does that automatically save it to the ecu, or is there something else i need to do? also, I don't remember how to lean out the air on idle... is that just in the closed loop table for the RPM range? I noticed something for idle, but I cant lower the value below 0.75, so I duno.
Also, do you have problems with kinda slow cranking? Do I need to upgrade the starter to make it more efficient, or is there a way to tune that too?
Question... if i plug my lappy into the car, "connect to the ecu" and edit things in race tuner, does that automatically save it to the ecu, or is there something else i need to do? also, I don't remember how to lean out the air on idle... is that just in the closed loop table for the RPM range? I noticed something for idle, but I cant lower the value below 0.75, so I duno.
Also, do you have problems with kinda slow cranking? Do I need to upgrade the starter to make it more efficient, or is there a way to tune that too?
Idling on any ported renesis is going to be a bit rough its just the nature of it. It shouldn't be shaking violently or anything to dramatic. But then again you have a Bridgeport, that's essentially uncharted territory, so who knows what its going to do.
All I know about tuning is if my afrs go above a certain level I send my maps to Jeff. I've always wanted to get into tuning but I never really got into it.
After the rebuild it would take a long time to start up until about 400-500 miles that seems to be about the time everything starts functioning better with rebuilds.
04-27-2011, 02:22 PM
#564
yea, once I get the idle stable, and as low as I can possibly get it without it choking, then yea, I'll make a couple videos. It doesn't really lope at all at 1500 RPMs, so we'll see what it does at 1200 when I get home. I'm still last minute tuning and adjusting things before deals gap. My SSV valve has developed the clicking noise though, so I have to figure out how to fix that too... and my tensioner pulley is squeaking at me.
04-27-2011, 06:37 PM
#566
Who knows! In any event I'm excited to hear some sound clips from this thing and see what kind of power its making, assuming it lasts long enough to get on the dyno.
04-27-2011, 11:40 PM
#567
BDC Motorsports
hmm he might have been, he just said my idle was good for a ported engine, most ported rotary's are a little more choppy.
Who knows! In any event I'm excited to hear some sound clips from this thing and see what kind of power its making, assuming it lasts long enough to get on the dyno.
Who knows! In any event I'm excited to hear some sound clips from this thing and see what kind of power its making, assuming it lasts long enough to get on the dyno.
The bridgeport however in all instances of every rotary motor I've ever looked at is a different approach and result altogether. It induces mega overlap. On the Renesis alone, the 1.1" tall bridgeport that I cut w/ notched rotor housings (to match) induces about 30* of intake/exhaust overlap. That alone is going to produce a rhythmic bump albeit to a lesser degree compared to the bridgeports of older 13B's. There's no way around it and it is always the case. It will have a moderately negative effect on engine performance at lower RPM's (usually below 2k-2500rpm) but will have a substantially positive effect at higher RPM's. Anyways, I'm getting off subject. Sorry.
Not all port jobs will produce choppy or notchy idle. It just really depends on what exact kind of "porting" is being done. The BP however is the exception to this rule simply by design of the port.
B
04-27-2011, 11:41 PM
#568
BDC Motorsports
yea, once I get the idle stable, and as low as I can possibly get it without it choking, then yea, I'll make a couple videos. It doesn't really lope at all at 1500 RPMs, so we'll see what it does at 1200 when I get home. I'm still last minute tuning and adjusting things before deals gap. My SSV valve has developed the clicking noise though, so I have to figure out how to fix that too... and my tensioner pulley is squeaking at me.
B
04-28-2011, 12:21 AM
#569
I think the chop or no-chop thing ultimately boils down to whether or not there's been an increase in overlap. There's a science and a method behind porting in that the goal is usually about increasing VE but not all folks who pick up a die grinder really understand that. What I tell people fairly regularly is something I've learned and seen by experience: For those that try out engine porting (mostly for what's called a 'street port'), that's how many differing opinions you've got on what the right way is. It's a very ambiguous thing so it's not surprising to run into a motor that's been 'street ported' to has some sort of idle chop now because it may've been cut too big or too wide or something else in a fashion that isn't necessarily conducive to the best power output. So, it really depends on what's been done.
The bridgeport however in all instances of every rotary motor I've ever looked at is a different approach and result altogether. It induces mega overlap. On the Renesis alone, the 1.1" tall bridgeport that I cut w/ notched rotor housings (to match) induces about 30* of intake/exhaust overlap. That alone is going to produce a rhythmic bump albeit to a lesser degree compared to the bridgeports of older 13B's. There's no way around it and it is always the case. It will have a moderately negative effect on engine performance at lower RPM's (usually below 2k-2500rpm) but will have a substantially positive effect at higher RPM's. Anyways, I'm getting off subject. Sorry.
Not all port jobs will produce choppy or notchy idle. It just really depends on what exact kind of "porting" is being done. The BP however is the exception to this rule simply by design of the port.
B
The bridgeport however in all instances of every rotary motor I've ever looked at is a different approach and result altogether. It induces mega overlap. On the Renesis alone, the 1.1" tall bridgeport that I cut w/ notched rotor housings (to match) induces about 30* of intake/exhaust overlap. That alone is going to produce a rhythmic bump albeit to a lesser degree compared to the bridgeports of older 13B's. There's no way around it and it is always the case. It will have a moderately negative effect on engine performance at lower RPM's (usually below 2k-2500rpm) but will have a substantially positive effect at higher RPM's. Anyways, I'm getting off subject. Sorry.
Not all port jobs will produce choppy or notchy idle. It just really depends on what exact kind of "porting" is being done. The BP however is the exception to this rule simply by design of the port.
B
04-28-2011, 07:56 AM
#570
You asked, and here it is...
You Tube Vid
I'm not sure if the neutral position switch is acting up or not, but I'm having problems with it keeping idle after / while driving. If I let it sit a few min and restart, it'll idle file. At 1500 RPM it was surging to 2200 or so and falling back to 1500 continuously. Now at 1200 RPM, it just chokes itself and dies.
Maybe it's an issue of not getting enough fuel. It's highly possible that the closed loop tables are choking the engine cause they're not setup for the increased air flow. We'll get it worked out regardless.
It's running about 14 AFR while driving (open loop) and 20 AFR at idle (closed loop). So overall I say it runs fine, just need a lot closed loop tuning, and fine tuning in open loop.
You Tube Vid
I'm not sure if the neutral position switch is acting up or not, but I'm having problems with it keeping idle after / while driving. If I let it sit a few min and restart, it'll idle file. At 1500 RPM it was surging to 2200 or so and falling back to 1500 continuously. Now at 1200 RPM, it just chokes itself and dies.
Maybe it's an issue of not getting enough fuel. It's highly possible that the closed loop tables are choking the engine cause they're not setup for the increased air flow. We'll get it worked out regardless.
It's running about 14 AFR while driving (open loop) and 20 AFR at idle (closed loop). So overall I say it runs fine, just need a lot closed loop tuning, and fine tuning in open loop.
