ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

One word....WOW!

Quick Update!

I finally got my two Bosch -044's replaced with real ones (someone had sold me two knockoffs and one of them was not working). I drove it around a bit for the last few days....and tuesday decided to get off the wastegate spring pressure and actually tune the boost controller... I set it at 15-16psi (it will reach just under 16 and settle/hold 15psi the rest of the way)....and OHHH MAN!

I am at a loss for words. At this level of boost with the new intake manifold and the new porting...it pulls like it did at 19-20psi before. I can put it in 4th at like 55-60mph....floor it and count to three fast(not seconds) and be going well over 100mph...In 4th the car squats from the power :O....

The new 19X10 Rojas with the larger, meatier, taller 275-35-19 Toyo T1R's are an amazing improvement over my previous 275-30-19 dunlop combo....

It still smokes them from a roll in 2nd at anything above 15psi...but now there is absolutely no wheel spin in 3rd and 4th which was a problem before...I can still get third to break loose with the clutch or with more psi but as of 15psi there is no wheel spin from a roll...the car just squats and goes....its really amazing..

I hate speculating but I would not be surprised if I am in the 470-480whp range right now at this level...I can't wait to get it to the planned 19-20psi....god knows what I will have then

Best regards,

Chris

p.s.oh..I almost forgot...right now my APV is closed...I am running on four ports with the Half-bridge....I have a new APV controller that I will installing to make them open with the rpm aux signal from the Interceptor-X that is normally used for the SSV...I will set this at 6500rpm...but right now...power isn't flattening until at least 7900rpm which is unsually high for having the APV closed....this is probably due to the bridge..I cannot wait until I get that installed and take it to a dyno...whootwhoooot!

...also...this was at 9.9-10.2AFR on very conservative timing and on E-85...its not even close to being maxed out at this psi... :D

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Dang Chris---do it dude---E 85 seems to be something else. All this power and keeping it cool too!
Driveline changes now ? Chassis mods? I know you are not running the stock motor mounts?
Insane--just insane over 450hp to the wheels out of a renasis and street driven. The renny has arrived and Chris is driving it!.

I dont know what I did but after I installed my little intake in which i removed the jet air stuff and sealed the top area(where the vdi used to be) and smoothed it out--now my usual dips when the ssv and apv's open are almost totally gone.
olddragger

alz0rz

iTrader: (41)

All I've ever wanted is 300 to the wheels.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Actually I do have stock motor mounts....I did add a Ingalls torque stiffy brace which helps alot in keeping the engine from twisting too much... As for the chassis....just Tein S-Tecks so far...and lots of good sticky rubber are my mods... As for driveline...I have an OS-Giken Twin disk clutch that is normally meant for the FC3S Turbo II...capable of holding up to at least 600whp.

I will get the apv controller installed and tune it a bit and then take it to a dyno...we will see what the reni can do...

For those that don't know, the engine is a renesis with massaged exhaust ports and a half-bridge intake port setup...it has our propietary Esmeril Racing Apex seals and I also added two dowel pins to the assembly to keep it from breaking the front plate top dowel land from the torque....

The driveshaft and tranny should be able to handle up to mid 500whp...easily...since it can take that from a 20b which generates way more tq than me...I get my hp from revving...they get it from more tq...

We'll see where this one goes..

Chris

Benjamz

Sounds awsome, I remeber kinda getting bashed when I said the intake mani can be improved for turbo use, nice to see you proved me right.

reddozen

iTrader: (1)

god that makes me wish i could find some side irons at a reasonable price >_<
I'm seriously going to do this once I get the parts and money together.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know...too many computer/internet experts around these parts....I try stuff and then determine whether the results were positive or not...I do the proper math before hand to increase the possibility of good results, its not all trial and error, but in the end you don't know anything until you try it.

For example, runner length, cross sectional area/profile and plenum volume etc were just a few of the consideration I took into account before fabricating the intake but in then end...you can't just leave it at the numbers or speculations.

I would like to add that at levels at around 400whp it would not be a huge improvement as the original manifold offers enough cfm capacity to fill the engine up...but as the mass flow increases, the ports get worked on to flow more along with etc...you need a bigger "feed hole" or your power up top (past 8000rpm) will suffer. Things are optimal for what they were designed to operate at. The stock mani is made for a N/A engine of mid 200hp. in turbo you obviously squeeze more power out of it but the small 3" OEM intake manifold with no effective plenum volume starts to pose a restriction after a certain point. I'd say that if sticking to less than 430whp to keep the OEM mani because the work/expense and time invested in a fabricated unit will not yield its weight in performance improvement. If shooting for more...you know the answer to that .

Chris

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Yes I agree. A vacuum gauge is good...I did it a little bit differently. I measured boost in two spots at the same time while running. Right behind the throttle body...and right at the entrance to the intake port of the iron. You can see both gauges do the same exact thing up to a certain point and as the revs/boost goes up the one right at the intake port starts lagging behind the one behind the throttle body...what this yields is a power band has is really nice in the mid to mid/high range but when you get to the high rpm area it falls on its face. This always happens but is normally normal/minimal. It could also be fixed by having the boost controller read right at the port which will make it force the turbo to spin faster as the rpm goes up to compensate for the loss but you are still not dealing with the root issue.

When you port the housings....and add more than 15-16psi it starts becoming an issue because the intake mani starts chocking the engine...I agree that if you are staying at less than 430whp there is no point...you might pick up a few hp here and there but you might loose some down low and it will not worth the effort.


Chris

Benjamz

Nice to see that 500+ whp is around the corner, keep up to good work. No, keep up the fantastic work.

ChrisRX8PR, Throw a HKS T51R Kai on that thing will ya!!!

Any updates on the N/A bridgeport project?

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

A t51R, why? I have a PT71GTQ...better matched...quicker spooling and still capable of 890hp on a piston motor.

A T51R wouldn't be necessary...plus its only slightly larger...

Chris

Benjamz

LOL, I was joking, I only metioned the HKS turbo because it is one of my favorites. My buddy had it on his automatic rx7, sounded so damn cool. The turbo was very loud like a diesel truck's turbo when it spooled.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Oh I see...funny though...mine sounds just like you describe... :D

Benjamz

NICE, Now I have 2 favorite turbos...lol

So when will you be selling this 500whp turbo set-up. You can easily do it like hison supercars when the customer drives to you, drops off their car and picks it back up when your done.

Motor mod, turbo and everything else, sound like a quick way to drop 10k.

But you'll have a 500hp renny!!

IXC-RX8

very nice sound!

freaklinkmusic

i have a rear housing for the renesis for sale.. i have 1 potential buyer though.. check on the sales thread

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that would be nice....but it would be alot more than 10k....the work alone to do everything is at least 3-4k....just for the work...
it would require our kit plus some larger components like a bigger turbo...and the fuel system...etc...clutch...all kinds of extra stuff...it would end up being closer to between 15-20k....it appears as though 500whp costs the same regardless of engine...you can go 20b and spend at least 25k....or you can go renesis and spend about 15k...either way its a lot.

Chris

Benjamz

yeah, thats some serious cash. I guess my 10k comment was discounts and parts only and doing all the work yourself...lol.

But its worth it. 4 seater 4 door awsome handling car.



But for me, an all motor 3 rotor is great. Great motor for a track car. Since the FC was originally designed for a 3 rotor thats the car a would throw it in.

So... Are you guys working on a track kit now that time attack is very popular here in the states.

reddozen

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, but I found a whole short block for $1000

AdRoCK3217

FC?

Designed?

For 3 rotor?

What

The FC was designed from the beginning as a convertible 2-rotor turbo

Benjamz

adrock3217,

My bad let me rephrase that, I ment to say that the FC was going to recieve a prototype N/A 3 rotor for the 10th anniversary FC for the U.S.

Being said, I'd like to throw a 3 rotor in the FC because that was the car chosen by a mazda designer named Tohda.

So, I believe you when you say the convertble was designed for the turbo 2 rotor.

But according to what I read, the 10th anny and GTu's were going to get the N/A 3 rotor. But it cost to much money for tooling so the idea was scrapped.

source:
Page 77, In the RX-8 book that came with pre-orderd RX8's.

Hope that clears some things up, I'll try to make it more clear next time...lol

Sorry to clutter the thread ChrisRX8PR, by the way any word on the N/A bridgeport RX8

ASH8

MMmm, I would like to know where the FC RX-7 was "originally" supposed to have the 3 rotor 20B motor...that is news to me..

The 20B was only used in the JDM Cosmo 2 door..1992-2 for memory?

mperformance

I would like to congratulate Phillip SA for being the first one to bridge port the renesis at least in this forum.

Chris also great job...

I want to see a 4 port turbo renesis being bridged and ported as one big extended port with a custom 4 port intake without the extra restrictive ports originally designed for NA intake port tuning.

Sounds stupid (4 ports being restrictive and all) but heck it would actually be interesting to see if 4 port old school porting on a Renesis yields similar results porting old rx-7 plates compared to the sucky 6 port ones in rx-7. If it works, 4 port low power (AT) plates would become popular in the renesis turbo community. I would guess?

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

I actually considered that. A nicely ported 4 port engine with a custom intake manifold should work great, just like a RE or REW engine. I was really close to making my car a 4 port but had too many 6 port parts laying around....I will see what the future will bring .

Chris

bhop

If PFS can do a 3 rotor 4 port AT with 450+ then I'm sure a a 4 port bridgeport will be the next big task.

AdRoCK3217

Ohhh, my mistake. See, I might know this bit of information had I bought my RX8 brand new Thanks for the insight.