They are just a push on connector, they seal on the o-ring, so long as you don't loose the plastic clip out of the connector you can re-use them until you wear the o-ring out, mine's been on and off about 50-60 times...

 

I reused mine I'm at 134k, if they were rubber lines with worm clamps I'd say replace them, your call though.

 

ok here is what has happened to folks concerning this fuel line.
The one I spoke of connects the two fuel rails. They have quick release connectors. Under the quick release connector there is a little red half moon spacer that fits into the end of the fuel line. That spacer is critical for a complete seal.
What CAN happen is the quick connector ( the blue ring thing) can streach out of shape with repeated removal. This allows the little red moon spacer to have room to wiggle. Fuel lines move with varing fuel pressures. If the blue ring is steached enough and it allows the red spacer to wiggle too much you will loose the seal. My incidence happened at Road Atlanta when that connector decided to let go and I lost fuel pressure which leaned the engine out, popping a apex seal. The gas that was on top on the engine was steaming when I pitted. It could have easily caught fire.
Another members car did catch fire and totally burned.
The line can be reused--i never said it couldnt. BUT, if you do secure those quick release rings with a zip tie or worm clap. Once installed the fuel rails etc are all installed you cant see it--dont take a chance with it--just secure the thing. If you want to buy a new one they are not expensive--i think $25 or so.
Yall know if it can happen--it is going to happen to me.

 

you're cursed in the back stretch at RA lol

 

It depends on how much you open the ring when you take it off as to whether you permanently stretch it open or not . If the ring is sitting snug into the pipe then it is fine . If it has opened up and is a bit sloppy then there will be a problem . Mine did end up loose so i zip tied them when I heard of your issue .

 

So is this thing done yet? Thought the build was supposed to happen over the weekend

At this rate RWD+LSD=Zoom just might beat you to it, we're doing his install next week

 

Broken bolt in my new engine. I don't wanna talk about it, Word to the wise, if you have a mileage car and you are going to do this, get new bolts for everything.

 

Ouch that really sucks! Which bolt? How are you going about removing it?

 

One of the lower intake manifold bolts. I was even using a 3/8" torque wrench. My guess is that the bolts are fatigued from being 8 years old. I have an employee who husband is a ASE master mechanic and he said coming from Michigan that he is the master at removing broken and rust seized bolts so he said since this was just put in it should come out easily. But I had a bad experience with and easy out that broke in the broken bolt already so this time I'll let someone else do it.

 

Hammer and a flat edge punch.

 

I hate easy outs, they break all the time. Did the bolt shear off flush with the iron? or is there some left sticking out? If it's the latter I would cut a slot in it and use a handheld impact driver that you hit with a hammer, it will take the bolt right out.

Do you know what type of steel those bolts are made out of? Could be that the heat cycles over time hardened the steel and made it more brittle.

 

Yeah it's sticking out a bit, His idea is actually to slot it and remove it. We shall see how it goes. I think you are right and the factory bolts get brittle over time.

 

if you have a good chisel or a flat ended punch. you can beat the hell out of it in the direction it needs to turn to come out. if you can catch the edge of the chisel in the same place every time, it will start to groove and spin the broken bolt out. It's time consuming, frustrating and a pain in the ***. If you have someone else willing to do, let them

 

Slot it and use one of these it will come out no problem....
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...p-00947641000P

Good Luck, Hope it works out good.

 

I've got one of those, I'll try it, thanks. If I **** it up I'll go postal.

 

^^+1 that will save you time if you can get a slot cut in it


edit:

putting it in the mail ain't gonna do **** dood.

 

This is the build that never ends... it goes on and on my friends...

 

For the record... Not my fault if you do

But... it really should come out no problem.

 

I know your pain my friend
There will always be something that happens.
Thats a low Tq bolt so removeal shouldnt be hard. This is all part of the "learning experience".
Now maybe you can understand that old saying" every tool I have has at some point has turned into a hammer"!
But, like folks are saying if you can slot it ( that can be done with a dremel too) then use the hand or a electric impact wrench to just loosen it after wd 40 the hell out of it and it will come out ok.
Now remember bolting this lim on you have a tightening patten--just like a wheel.
This is probably NOT the last aggravation you will be faced with. Welcome to the DIY world
You can do this man--dont be reluctant to handle these things.You can do this--just take your time.

 

you just gotta crack into a beer and enjoy every sip. If your biggest problem is a broken bolt then consider yourself a lucky man.

everyone that is a DIY'er will come to one of these broken bolt scenarios, its how they deal with it that makes them stronger or weaker.

I become super weak and then drink a lot, then try it again. Its not till I am done that I realize I have overcome hell.

GL my friend.

 

Well even though it's a low torque bolt it is being a ****. Slotting it and using the impact screwdriver didn't do much. So then we drilled a hole, got a larger torx bit in there super tight and tried loosening it very slow with a 1/4" ratchet and then the torx bit broke. I have horrible luck with broken bolts. My mechanic friend said he has used the torx bit method on rusted bolts and it has worked. before I **** it up beyond repair I am going to just load the engine up and take it to a machine shop. It's very frustrating.

 

lame set back, sorry to hear man.

 

Yeah it always seems to be some little bullshit. I just talked to an engine shop and it seems it's $100.00 minimum for them to give it a shot. Oh well, that's life

 

Check local machine shops, or even some parts stores. Smyth up here has a couple of machine shops in store.

Did you try to spinn it out with a chisel and hammer?

 

I snapped one of those once, came out with an easy-out type tool - just had to keep giving the head of the tool a smack with a hammer to shock it loose.