Yep, on on the bottom goes to the nipple on the rad, the -6 routes to the tstat housing (small hose on the top of the stock reservoir) and then the -10 goes to the block. I will post proper pics tomorrow of it all finished, I just finished

 

I still need to replace the catch can with a new black fitting and get the turbine inlet pipe coated (will do that when the turbo gets a rebuild) and clean everything but it came out well. Sorry for the cell shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10769765853/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10757259823/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10769496005/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10769593084/
My driveway on a typical Saturday morning,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10769535866/

 

Looks pretty good, I still think louvers would be best on the rad fan cover.

this may be a dumb question, but did you notice road noise increase when you removed the insulation stuff around the wheel wells?

 

Nah you want the air from behind the rad to be forced underneath. Without a tray my intake temps were insane in traffic or at idle, now they 5-6F above ambient regardless. The Tray is Jet Hot coated.

No, I have not had the insulation in forever. But I drive a rotary so I doubt I would notice anyway,

 

that makes sense,

lol, it was a long shot, I am thinking about removing mine.

 

It doesnt really help tbh, when hot air goes to the top area it will have no where to go, heat soak is nasty, i was in the same shoes with all the trays off to fit the SC Kit, then i fabbed up a new tray and saw much lower IAT

 

So you used AN fittings to the tanks and then hose clamp the other end to a modified hose ...

 

Yeah, eventually I will have AN fittings welded on to the T stat housing. I also made the switch to Evans when I did this. Small steps man, small steps.

 

I like the last shot the best.... just saying.

 

dude in the picture must be posting to rx8club.com....

 

Love the build theres alot of good information in here I have alot to read.

 

Thanks man, it is coming along. next up is to get the turbo rebuilt and to do some heat shielding down below.

I finally got my strut bar powder coated and installed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/10979660605/

 

The pic clearly demonstrates your dedication and effort put into to the project. This can't be denied regardless if anyone agrees with the details or choices. Knowing firsthand myself what it takes to see a project like this through, my hat's off to you for this alone

 

when you get a compliment from team, you know you're doing something right

 

Thank you sir, I appreciate it. You have been great help and without the great deal on the kit from you she would not be where she is today.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

I have been having issues with the nuts and lock washers at the Turbo to manifold working loose every 6 months or so. I called the guys at Stage 8.

These should work nicely.

#3950 8MM-1.25 LOCKING TURBO NUTS | Stage 8

 

Never had that issue in 5 years

 

Yeah I dunno man, lock washers were/are on and everything. I used all new heat treated 10.9 grade studs and hardware when I initially installed it. It happened to another local Greddy owner once too.

 

I used stainless steel bolts and nuts ... maybe that helped ....

 

Well the guy at Stage 8 said stainless is a must.

 

I'm going ot get these studs and nuts.

M8 X 1.25 30mm Studs- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

and for the down-pipe

M8 x 1.25

Hex Crimplock Nuts- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

 

Actually the studs for the downpipe are M8 a 30mm 1.25TP as well according to the Greddy instructions.

 

If you use the nickel-based high temp anti-seize it will help too. Its fairly dense, but will make unthreading regular nuts by hand more difficult once broken loose.


.

 

Is that different from normal Permatex anti seize?

 

The nickel-based a-s is rated for 2400F temperature