I seriously doubt the ground is at fault as 1) countless others are using the same ground without issues and 2) all 3 circuits show a voltage of 12V-13V.

At first I thought maybe I was using a wire I shouldn't be, like the HVAC constant power.

However, the problem seems to appear/disappear when I connect the white wire -- which is the cig lighter power wire. There should be no issues at all putting a load on this circuit. I am leaning towards a bad module but I would like more thoughts on this..

 

I'm pulling switched power from the cig lighter and constant power from the POS aftermarket security system that is in my RX8. I believe I'm using a chassis grounding point as well since my gauges are on the center dash.

Just be sure that all your power wires are fused. There's nothing fun about prosports going up in smoke!

 

Well the cig lighter is off its own 15A fuse. Which fuses sizes are recommended for which wires for prosport?

Also, had a really bad revelation: It seems there is only about 12"-13" between the exhaust port and the stock cat. Since the WBO2 needs to be at LEAST 18" from the exhaust port, this means I have to either remove the stock NBO2 and use the hole in the cat [which I think is probably not a good spot for the wbo2 OR get a midpipe to use this.

**** my day

 

As long as the wires are getting 12v your fine so any fuse putting that out will work.

As for the WB, dont remove the stocker... no need to.

You can place the WB sensor further downstream if need be.

 

You mean I can place it after the cat? Would that still give accurate readings?

 

I believe i spoke with you on the phone today... did you try hooking just the WB up to your battery. I believe this is a wiring issue. :/

 

Yes you did. I'm at work right now and I'll try it tonight. I hope you're right since I'd hate to send it back, although I find it quite strange to get that issue when most people who have installed gauges here use the same connections without issue. I'm also going to try grounding directly to the body, despite the good readings on the multimeter.


So sensor after the cat? I *somehow* believe that this will result in inaccurate readings...


Also -- which size fuses should be used for this gauge [and on which wires?]

 

I couldn't be more satisfied with my prosport gauges. Looks great and got alot of "oohs and ahhs" from my buddies

 

FYI, i used an add a fuse circuit for my constant power. i hooked it into the audio fuse position in the kick panel since i dont have the bose system there was no fuse there. i installed a 10A fuse for my gauges. they power up and down perfectly.

however, i noticed my oil temp gauge might be sticking low. how long should it take to start going up?

 

Alright so after a few days of screwing around, I finally got the gauge to work properly.

The gauge cluster buzzing was caused by tapping the orange HVAC wire for constant 12V. Tap the blue/red wire from the radio instead.

Not sure where the power issue came from. I redid all my connections with clean connectors and all is working.

Will call Prosport tomorrow for answers to these questions if they can't be answered in this thread

 

i used a 10A fuse on the constant power lead.

 

call me and ill help you over the phone

727-572-9011

Ryan

 

I am starting a new thread to discuss the issue of where to place the WBO2 sensor on the stock catted midpipe since I don't want to clutter this thread, but I do invite you guys to come discuss the issue further:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/wbo2-sensor-%5B-afr-gauge%5D-where-put-stock-mid-pipe-184143/

Thanks!

 

I don't normally cross-post but this time I will make an exception.

Since no one here could answer me, I called Bosch. They had a technician call me back and we had a nice discussion about this.

Mike at Bosch is adamant that the putting the sensor after the cat will produce inaccurate readings. The sensor must be placed before the cat.

Mike also said that since the sensor is already heated, it should not burn out due to high EGTs but cautioned to not make it worse for no reason. He recommended putting the sensor as close to the cat as possible.

I will be fitting the sensor in between the flange and the cat (tight spot!) and will report back.

In the mean time, to the guys at Prosport: please stop telling people to put this after the cat. I'm glad I didn't take you at your word for this and called the manufacturer myself.

 

I searched all over this thread and DO NOT see anywhere where we said to install the O2 sensor after the cat??
The correct location as you already mentioned is before the cat.

 

Right here.

Ryan also told me that when I called in.

 

Im not sure when i spoke with you If so i believe you said you had fitment issues with there not being enough room before the cat. And i would never say after the cat if there is a possible chance of putting it before. :/

 

Really? So you don't recall the entire discussion where you said that it was completely fine after the cat because "dyno tuners use tailpipe sniffers anyways so it won't be a problem" and I said "in my experience they add an additional bung before the cat or tune catless"?

And then the follow up question when I mentioned that the cat would alter the AFR due to how it works, and your answer was that a cat "is to remove black smoke from the exhaust and won't affect AFR"? That's the point where I pretty much facepalm'ed and decide to figure it out on my own.

No disrespect intended, but I was not impressed at all by that call, and I kinda figured that the reason you wouldn't answer me on the forum where everyone could see what you were saying is that you really just didn't know the answer. There's no shame in saying "I don't know". It's better than guessing.

 

The wulf, Our techs talk to customers on a daily basis. its hard to remember every single person

On any turbo charged car, you want to get the o2 sensor as close to the turbo as possible. this is were the A/F is most accurate. same concept for N/A.

Regardless, the person you spoke to at bosch is correct. placeing the o2 sensor at the midpipe vs the tailpipe will affect the reading but its so minimum. were talking .1-.2 ish.

talked to a local reputable shop that does work for our local customers and our Prosport STI. He said the change before and after the cat is unnoticable. He even said Stock 350z come with wideband sensors stock before the cat, Putting a sniffer on the tail pipe to tune, the number matched up exactly.

I also contacted Bosch, Mike said that you may be refering to stock narrow band sensors. Those are placed before, in the cat or after. it depends on the car manufacture.

From my experience ive seen many tuners tune with sniffers on the tailpipe and there wideband reads identical to the stock ECU A/F.

 

I gave Mike the Bosch Part number (17025) before discussing it and when we spoke he told me that it would be significantly inaccurate to the point where I shouldn't bother. Looks like we're getting conflicting information.

So I guess there's really only 1 thing left to do: Install the sensor after the cat and compare the gauge to the CAN bus reading from the stock WB. Not sure if I can do this before the weekend but if I can I'll video the results and post them here.

 

ok cool, waiting for results.

 

Bringing back an old thread, I hope the rep from Prosport still visits the forum. I'm thinking about getting the new Halo series gauges, but I'd like a little more info on the touch pad. I know it's detachable from the bezel, but can you set it and then detach it and keep it somewhere else? Or does it have to stay wired up and in the car somewhere? Any other info on them would be great. They look really cool from some of the pics I've seen. The colors look like a closer match to the RX-8 gauges and I love the fact that you can dim them.

Also, 9krmprx8, I just want to verify that hooking them up through the dimmer switch allows you to have the gauges white when the stock gauges are white even when the headlights are on, and then turn to red when you click the dimmer switch down. I drive with my lights on in the day a lot and want to make sure I can hook them up this way. I may pick your brain a bit more when I get the actual gauges.

If you haven't seen the Halo gauges, here are a couple pics:

 

we are still here

The touch pad can be placed behind the gauge for a more stealthy look after all your presets and color have been set. in order to change the color the touch pad needs to be used.
Because this gauge offers three colors it does not change with a flip of the headlight switch unfortunatly.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

No, I don't think adjusting the dimmer switch affects the gauges. But I will check and get back to you. My car is on stand right now awaiting a part from the dealer so it will be a day or two.

 

Your website mentions day and night mode, so you have to use the same color but you can set it brighter for day and dimmer for night? That's too bad as both the white and red look like they match the white and red of the RX-8 gauges so well. Still interested though


Cool, I'm not asking if it will actually dim the lights, but when you roll the dimmer switch to the top and it clicks, will this switch the gauges between day and night mode (like it does for the main gauge cluster). That's really what I'm looking for.

Most aftermarket gauges I've seen (in person or pics) are very bright even in night mode, outshining the OEM gauge cluster by quite a bit. The fact that you can dim the Halo gauges (with the touchpad included with the gauges, not with the dimmer ****) is a big selling point to me. But, like the OEM gauges, night mode may be too dim to read during the day, so the ability to switch to "day mode" when the lights are on is important too.