Wow pretty blinking lights. Sorry I can't help, I wired mine to the dimmer switch and room fuse.

 

Alright, I got it fixed since the last post. Flashwing was right, I pulled the panel off and checked the wires and even though I know I pushed in the blue connector to the temp gauges, they were loose and I had to press them in harder to lock in fully.

In other words, if your gauge is flashing after the ceremony on and off, it's because the connector is not pushed in all the way. I did not crimp my connectors on the ends that connect to the sensors (black & white) nor have to push them in harder. Check that the connectors are plugged in properly on the backside of the gauges far enough, that's where my problem was. If you're getting a red flashing aka warning, it's because you: 1) have the oil pressure warning setting too high and the pressure when the car is on is below your "minimum" or 2) you have the temperature gauges warning setting too low and the temperatures are going past your "maximum" or 3) You settings are what you want and you're going past them period.

The peak warning has nothing to do with the on & off flashing (not the red flashing). Only if your temperatures go past your peak setting or if the oil pressure is below your minimum setting will it flash red like your gauge on the far right. If you don't have peak settings, you won't get that red flashing at all unless you turn the key to "on" position without starting the car up and let them do the opening ceremony. After they do this the oil pressure will flash red since it's on 0 oil pressure (obviously since you haven't started the car up). Other than that, you don't have to have a peak or minimum setting applied to the gauges to get rid of the flashing. Nor do you need a constant 12v other than for just having the gauges remember your settings.

On another note, what wire did you use in the room fuse or the fuse box for constant power? There's a crap load of them in there and I don't have a volt meter on hand to check.

 

Yeah the room fuse is constant 12v.

 

give us a call so we can help you directly over the phone.

727-572-9011

 

Went outside just now to check the connections, well it was somewhat loose. I also set the peak for my oil pressure and its fine now. For my temp gauges however, the water temp stopped blinking, but its still not getting a signal " still sits at 0." and my oil temp still flashes and is sitting at max.

As for the room fuse, I soldered another wire onto the gauges red wire. The other end of that wire is connected to the drivers side fuse box, very bottom, should be a blue fuse labeled 15 " on the fuse cover it says room. "

I'll be calling the second I get home from school and work this evening.

 

For the water temp, did you warm the car up and try running it? Mine don't move at all until the temperature on the car's gauges is nearly 1/4 of the way up there or more then it starts to move. Likely because the car's gauges start near 0 while the water temperature is around 100 I believe so it takes a bit.

I'm confused by the oil temp, still flashes and is sitting at max? Max meaning....maxed out on the gauge or what? And by flashing, which kind? On & off flashing or the red warning flash?

 

Lol, you called it again Vlaze. Took the 8 out for a spirited drive to see if a little redline might cure anything.

But before that, I did rechecked the connections from the gauges and from the engine bay. Turns out the water temp gauges' sensor wires wasn't making full contact with the other . I was hoping it was the same problem with my oil temp gauge, but that was wishful thinking.

Oh, and by max I meant 300 degrees. If you noticed in the first video, after the opening ceramony, the needle just climbed its way up to 300 degrees. I'm pretty sure the flashing is because I set the peak to 220 degrees, and since its at 300, its well over. Heres a follow up video below. It'll show that both the water temp gauge, and the oil pressure gauge is functioning correctly. But the oil temp gauge continues to be a problem. Its bugging me because I'm pretty sure its an easy fix, but I can't figure it out lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mqi1q0NO40Q

I'm gonna call up Prosport tomorrow. Wasn't able to call today, caught em 5mins after they closed. I forgot about the whole diffrence in time zone thing heh .

 

Well for the maxed out gauge there I'm useless not having to troubleshoot it myself. But I can't think of anything installation wise that would cause it. The only thing that could possibly cause it is maybe you plugged the connection on the back of the gauge upside down? I doubt that though since you shouldn't even be able to plug it in period in that case. So I'm leaning towards the sensor you screw into the adapter being faulty or the gauge itself.

Definitely see what Prosport has to say about it.

 

did you call us?

 

Yes I did, was just the other day actually. To be honest, it wasn't too helpful, but it did give me some direction I suppose.

I was told that the reason my oil temp gauge was acting up because the gauge itself wasn't getting a signal from the sensor. But how to solve that was up to me. I ran out to check my connections and they were fine, nothing is loose, checked the lines for kinks, checked to make sure everything was fully connected. Gave you guys a call back, and was basically told to recheck it again.

So I'm going to assume its either the oil temp sensor, or its the sensor wires. I actually just sent payment for a new sensor body and wires yesterday. Well, two sensor wires lol. I thought maybe it was the gauge itself that was broken. So I thought hey, why not swap the water temp gauge lines to the oil temp one. This way we'll know if its the gauge or the lines that are screwy. Well, turns out that the connections are different " the blue capped end " but during the process, my pliers slipped from the blue cap, and re-set itself on the wires " black/white " and guess what I pulled loose? The water temp gauge line, that was just fixed the other day lol. I'm back to square one.

So hopefully, $30.00 later, it should be fixed.

 

Let us know how this goes please

 

Alright, so after I got all the parts in the mail, I started pulling things apart. 2 days later, I finally got my dang oil filter off. I had those autozone/kragen oil filter wrenches, worked fine last oil change, but for some reason it decided to quit working this week "If you guys wanna see pics let me know lol"

Anyways, I think I found the culprit. It wasn't easily spotted until after everything was removed and back out in front of me. The white wire connected to the butt of the sensor was barely hanging on by 2 strands. After replacing the adapter and filter back to where they belong, I connected the wires together. I did a quick look to see if it solved the problem, and it seems like the oil temp gauge is still climbing up to 300 degrees after the opening ceremony. Didn't turn the ignition all the way though.

So is there a reset or something I should try? I was thinking of pulling the battery's negative cable to reset everything in the car, and then take her out for a spin?

 

Their is no reset button, but by disconnecting power it will clear the gauge. If you like we can check the gauge and sender for you, just send it in with your full contact info & description of the problem.

 

usually resetting everything by pulling the fuse helps. Sometimes my Oil pressure gauge gets stuck or is lit but not operating so i just pull the fuse and it resets.

 

Oh how I wish I read your post before I started cutting wires lol. Okay heres the thing..

But first off, Prosport, your off the hook. I decided to swap out the oil temp line for that new one that I just ordered. Works fine now. Looked at the wire that came with my gauges and there was nothing obviously wrong with it. No kinks, no cuts, no signs of any damages. So I'm not even gonna wonder whats wrong with it. But yea, everything is working perfectly now.

Or so I thought lol. After a quick run out to Quickles with a few friends to test out my work. All 3 gagues worked fine. 2-3 hours later when I started up the 8, the oil pressure gauge died. " Stayed at zero psi. "

It seems like these gauges don't like me very much lol. I'm going to order a oil pressure line for my premium press gauge this coming monday. And hopefully it'll be fine again.

 

Question for the AFR gauge: where is the best place to place the bung? Closer to the cat or closer to the header?

 

Actually about right in between the two..

 

Thanks. Putting the bung/sensor in tonight and the gauge on Saturday. Can't wait to try it out

 

As we all know the power wire with the yellow, black, orange, and white wires is notoriously short do you think it would be a problem to solder 14guage wire to the smaller wires to lengthen them? I have seen people use 12 but not 14.

 

no problem, EXCEPT for the any wideband kit.

 

^ Thanks...I'll keep that in mind ill be getting the wideband soon.

I developed another question toda while driving to work with my center console missing pretty much. I have the lotek pod and lengthened the power wires so that I can tap into the cig lighters power source however im looking at how i would route the wires down to the cig lighter and im a bit lost can anyone shed some light on this for me? Im including a picture of the open console if anyone wants to make a paintshop work of art. Any help is apprciated thanks again.

 

Just run it straight down the back of the console, behind the radio and all. I did the same thing with the auxmod wire for my stereo and it works out well.

 

^thanks got all the wires routed and wired...started up saw an opening ceremony and flashing lights and since its 9pm and im working in the dark i called it quits. I have a feeling tomorrow will have its issues.

I didnt tap a constant power source. I taped the the red and the white wire from the gauge harness to the yellow cigarette lighter wire. So i believe since i have the peak this wont work so tomorrow I will take the red off and try and find a constant power source.

I found a picture of the constant power in the fuse panel so figures i would share.

 

Help Please!

I am hooking up my AFR Wideband and running into some wiring problems.

Here's what I have:

Constant 12V - PS red -> Orange wire from HVAC controls
12V Ignition - PS white -> yellow from cig lighter
Ground - PS black -> black/red from cig lighter
Headlight Switch - PS orange -> red/orange from cig lighter

I measured the voltages with a multimeter at the other end of the wire that goes to Prosport's controller and everything is good for all scenarios (constant, ignition, headlights) however as soon as I plug that wire into the controller a shrieking/buzzing noise comes from the gauge cluster and the two turn signals light up. It stops when I unplug it. The noise is quieter if I turn on the headlights as if I am drawing some current away from it.

The gauge itself does not light up at all in any condition.

Help?

 

try grounding directly to the chassis instead of the wiring harness for the cig lighter.