Prosport Guages Disscussion!!
You have a series I so your oil pressure should be 80PSI max (give or take) unless you have the Mazmart mod (I do). I am willing to bet it's a bad ground but PS would have more input.
As for fuel pressure, the ideal way is to use the Aeromotive fuel line adapter like I did. I use it for the fuel feed for my nitrous setup and for fuel pressure (it has two ports)
http://blackhaloracing.com/?page_id=...product_id=174
Cool, I'm not asking if it will actually dim the lights, but when you roll the dimmer switch to the top and it clicks, will this switch the gauges between day and night mode (like it does for the main gauge cluster). That's really what I'm looking for.
Most aftermarket gauges I've seen (in person or pics) are very bright even in night mode, outshining the OEM gauge cluster by quite a bit. The fact that you can dim the Halo gauges (with the touchpad included with the gauges, not with the dimmer ****) is a big selling point to me. But, like the OEM gauges, night mode may be too dim to read during the day, so the ability to switch to "day mode" when the lights are on is important too.
Most aftermarket gauges I've seen (in person or pics) are very bright even in night mode, outshining the OEM gauge cluster by quite a bit. The fact that you can dim the Halo gauges (with the touchpad included with the gauges, not with the dimmer ****) is a big selling point to me. But, like the OEM gauges, night mode may be too dim to read during the day, so the ability to switch to "day mode" when the lights are on is important too.
Anyone ever find a good source for this. I just pinned out all the connectors doing voltage drops. The only one I can find is on the actual dimmer switch - with headlights on, flicking the dimmer switch to white/day mode the pin I've found only steps it to a 5v reference.
Perhaps the only way to get your gauges to switch to day mode with the cluster is to use that pin on the dimmer switch and a relay.
The only wire I found that does so - only steps it up to 5v when I apply my cluster into bright mode and I'm fairly confident it will not trigger the gauges to change colors. While it could be quite possible using a relay.
I do appreciate your on the forum though for that matter.
Something other companies tend to lack.
On a side note I had Brice get on the horn for a new O-ring for the oil filter sandwhich plate adaptor. I was thoroughly displeased on how "chinsey"/ cheap the double O-ring gasket was for this.
Like I told Brice:
Hey Brice. I got everything Friday and got it all installed but the sandwhich plate leaks no matter what I try.
I tried using different O-rings.
Tried putting a very thin layer of RTV on the o-rings. (Toyota FIPG - the stuff rocks, it takes absence of a lot of "would-be" gaskets)
Tried the gasket it came with both with and without RTV.
I tried tightening the nut more and still no luck.
Can you get your hands on a new gasket for me?
I tried using different O-rings.
Tried putting a very thin layer of RTV on the o-rings. (Toyota FIPG - the stuff rocks, it takes absence of a lot of "would-be" gaskets)
Tried the gasket it came with both with and without RTV.
I tried tightening the nut more and still no luck.
Can you get your hands on a new gasket for me?
I almost used your product as a door stopper with the time I've invested getting it to work.(still leaks waiting on replacement O-ring from you guys and my own source) If I can't get this thing to seal I'm going with greddy or racing beat. Two companies - who I hope will provide some kind of guarantee or stand behind their product. Not saying you aren't - I'm just venting my frustration on a product oversight.
I tonight even tried running the outermost O-ring, but after some inspection with a mirror, the outermost O-ring is too large for the RX8 oil filter housing and slightly rolls the seal.
It is my speculation that running a single O-ring on the innermost grove would provide the best results....Hopefully.
I can understand. Maybe I got a poopy O-ring. So my fingers are crossed that the O-ring you guys send me is satisfactory.
It should not be necessary to use RTV, teflon, or FIPG to seal an O-ring. All of those components can clog oil galleys and cause catastrophic failure in ANY engine. Simply gobbing on more RTV or gasketmaker to remove an imperfect seal is unacceptable IMHO.
Enough ranting about a damn O-ring but I hate oil leaks.
Last edited by viprez586; Jun 20, 2011 at 09:08 PM.
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Wow, sorry to hear your having so much difficulty with it... we sell many thousands of them all with no problems/leaks, maybe you overtightened it and completely squished the gasket, either way the good news is we do offer replacements and it will not leak, as always come right to the source if you ever need help.
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Pro-sport Vacuum gauge and Fuel Pressure gauge connections?
I'm interested in ordering these gauges but does anyone know the best place for the Pro-Sport vacuum tube connection on the RX-8? Also for the Pro-Sport fuel pressure sender location as well? 
Thx
Thx
Not sure about the vacuum connection. The fuel sender will go in the fuel line with the red collar. See post 201 at the top of this page for info on the Aeromotive connector offered by BHR. I am about to put a fuel pressure gauge in too...
Ok, I finally had a chance to really look at this; turns out the wire harness was not seated completely. Strange that it would do that but it is completely fine now!
You'd be amazed how much PCMs, readings, etc. freak out when something is partially connected/plugged in.
I had mass air flow codes today after I did a 90k service on a car today. I was like WTF? I connected the MAF! Unplugged it, looked at the pins in both ends and reconnected it, then the codes cleared out.
A tiny bit of resistance is all it takes!
Good to hear you got it figured out! I really like my prosport gauges, gotten a couple compliments and jealous stares from them too lol.
I had mass air flow codes today after I did a 90k service on a car today. I was like WTF? I connected the MAF! Unplugged it, looked at the pins in both ends and reconnected it, then the codes cleared out.
A tiny bit of resistance is all it takes!
Good to hear you got it figured out! I really like my prosport gauges, gotten a couple compliments and jealous stares from them too lol.
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From: Afghanistan
I love my prosports, but the actual gauges keep crapping out on me. my AFR is fine but this is the second boost and second EGT that have crapped out.
My symptoms start as a sticking EGT gauge, useually ether maxed out or dead zero reading. However after revving the engine to heat up the sensor it goes away. same with boost, just throw the car into boost for a bit and it goes away. however it will get to the point where the needles are buried in the red so to speak. I bought new gauges about 14 months later (I wanted a different color anyway) and thought the sensors had just gone bad so after swapping the sensors I realized it was the actual gauge that was malfunctioning, since switching the gauge and keeping the old sensor worked. Now it is happening again another 13 months (1 month after the warranty!)
I love how the gauges work, and look. But 2 broken gauges in 26 months without warranty sucks. No other company's gauges look as nice or give me the same options. How can I fix these? or I will be forced to move to a different company
My symptoms start as a sticking EGT gauge, useually ether maxed out or dead zero reading. However after revving the engine to heat up the sensor it goes away. same with boost, just throw the car into boost for a bit and it goes away. however it will get to the point where the needles are buried in the red so to speak. I bought new gauges about 14 months later (I wanted a different color anyway) and thought the sensors had just gone bad so after swapping the sensors I realized it was the actual gauge that was malfunctioning, since switching the gauge and keeping the old sensor worked. Now it is happening again another 13 months (1 month after the warranty!)
I love how the gauges work, and look. But 2 broken gauges in 26 months without warranty sucks. No other company's gauges look as nice or give me the same options. How can I fix these? or I will be forced to move to a different company
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I love my prosports, but the actual gauges keep crapping out on me. my AFR is fine but this is the second boost and second EGT that have crapped out.
My symptoms start as a sticking EGT gauge, useually ether maxed out or dead zero reading. However after revving the engine to heat up the sensor it goes away. same with boost, just throw the car into boost for a bit and it goes away. however it will get to the point where the needles are buried in the red so to speak. I bought new gauges about 14 months later (I wanted a different color anyway) and thought the sensors had just gone bad so after swapping the sensors I realized it was the actual gauge that was malfunctioning, since switching the gauge and keeping the old sensor worked. Now it is happening again another 13 months (1 month after the warranty!)
I love how the gauges work, and look. But 2 broken gauges in 26 months without warranty sucks. No other company's gauges look as nice or give me the same options. How can I fix these? or I will be forced to move to a different company
My symptoms start as a sticking EGT gauge, useually ether maxed out or dead zero reading. However after revving the engine to heat up the sensor it goes away. same with boost, just throw the car into boost for a bit and it goes away. however it will get to the point where the needles are buried in the red so to speak. I bought new gauges about 14 months later (I wanted a different color anyway) and thought the sensors had just gone bad so after swapping the sensors I realized it was the actual gauge that was malfunctioning, since switching the gauge and keeping the old sensor worked. Now it is happening again another 13 months (1 month after the warranty!)
I love how the gauges work, and look. But 2 broken gauges in 26 months without warranty sucks. No other company's gauges look as nice or give me the same options. How can I fix these? or I will be forced to move to a different company
The boost sensor has electronics inside it and mounting it in the engine compartment under hot conditions over 14 months could cetainly affect it. Same with rain or washing your engine. water + electronics = dead sensor.
We do suggest mounting them in the cab under the dash to keep them climate controlled. The good news is we do sell sensors, well all components by themselves at very reasonable prices. A new boost sensor is $20 shipped for example. Anyway as stated earlier give us a call if your having any problems we are always here to help and will not turn you away because your are 30 days out of warranty. we cannot help you if you do not contact us. that is why we are here..for you.
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Frank? Is that you buddy?
I have a question about your fuel/oil pressure sender. I've read this about mixing and matching senders from the PLX forum...
"Regarding using our current fluid pressure sensor for fuel pressure, we have not done any testing ourselves as the sensor states specifically to not be used for fuel. Fuel pressure typically requires an active sensor instead of a passive sensor like our oil pressure sensor. We have had customers using the SM-Oil Pressure for over a year without any issues apart from replacing the sensor."
What kind of sensor are you guys using?
I have a question about your fuel/oil pressure sender. I've read this about mixing and matching senders from the PLX forum...
"Regarding using our current fluid pressure sensor for fuel pressure, we have not done any testing ourselves as the sensor states specifically to not be used for fuel. Fuel pressure typically requires an active sensor instead of a passive sensor like our oil pressure sensor. We have had customers using the SM-Oil Pressure for over a year without any issues apart from replacing the sensor."
What kind of sensor are you guys using?
Might want to look into adding a secondary IAT sensor tapping into the existing MAF Wiring and placing it post turbo. Check out this thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=iat+sensor
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^ Will you have that in the 52mm premium series?
Also, while you are here, how many premium series gauges can I daisy chain? I have two in the dual pod, and now I'm adding three over in the center in the lotek pod. Will extending the link cable to reach from the dual pod to the lotek cause any issues?
Also, while you are here, how many premium series gauges can I daisy chain? I have two in the dual pod, and now I'm adding three over in the center in the lotek pod. Will extending the link cable to reach from the dual pod to the lotek cause any issues?