I definitely concur now. Put my stock filter back on when I was recharging my K&N drop-in, and I had to give the 8 a lil more throttle effort to get the car to respond the same way with the K&N on.

 

Okay... so what is Version II?

 

I meant making a new DIY by saying Version II but nevermind...

 

I just removed the 2 walls but not the screens and I have a question which might sound stupid but still I would like to hear opinions.

What about removing the horn itself instead of just 1 screen? I imagine that this will allow better air flow within the enclosure which is now bigger without the walls. What do you think?

 

That does sound stupid for 2 reasons. -just poking fun at you not flaming.

1)That has been asked and answered a few times already.

2)The horn is there for a reason. It's a velocity stack that helps improve and accelerate the flow into the intake. Take a look at most modern and classic race cars. They have horn shaped velocity stacks on top of each throttle body for each piston.

This thread drives me nuts because it is all speculation and is not based on any science or measured improvements.

 

Gains from removing the screens are well documented by Racing Beat (1 hp per screen) .
From removing the baffles - who knows . No gains at all IMO .

 

Agreed. I'm probably putting my baffles back in since nothing backs up any power claims. I think removing the screen(s) is the reason my idle and acceleration is smoother. That plus the direct connect of the Revi duct. I figure both mods are good for 3HP (1-2 per screen, maybe 1 for the free flowing K&N, and 0 for the Revi according to Racing Beat ). Not much, but every little bit counts in this car. And if what I've done helps idle and smoothes out the acceleration, it was worth the $$. Especially over the RB intake cost. Add the RB exhaust (3.5HP) and the flash (8HP) and you're at 246.5HP- with better throttle response, better idle in some cases, smoother acceleration and a better exhaust note. If you really want to hit the magic 250, get the Revi intake box. HP cost a lot of money in this car, that's all there is to it. The gutted OEM box with a few mods seems like the best value.

 

Yeah, I felt the same thing.

 

Agreed removing the screens does help as long as you can get smooth flow over your MAF sensor. The rest is all speculation with no data or measurements to back it up and people are taking it as fact.

 

I took out my baffles.

I think Ill remove the 1st screen as well. in a few.

if only I had lots of money and could get a revi

 

just did this mod myself, I removed the baffles only, left the screens in. wow that stock air filter is something ugly! I'll definately be replacing that with something different when the time comes.

I did this mod to gain a bit more sound out of the engine only, I'm not insterested in getting more horses, and in that respect I'm not sure if it's done anything for me at all. I'll leave them off for a while to see if I notice a difference putting them back on later. I reset the ECU thru the press the odometer mode till it says test as well.

Edit for update:

I notice a bit more sound from the engine, it has a deeper tone and it starts make real noise at 3500 instead of 4000 rpm, this all might be a placebo...

BUT, something I noticed right away was a reduction in the tendency of the car to jerk when at very low speed in 1st gear. It used to start jerking back and forth if I got close to the engine dragging at idle speed in 1st. Taking out the baffles has gotten rid of about 90% of that jerking, it still happens but is very subtle compared to the embarrasing and annoying swaying I used to have. This same change also makes the car transition more smoothly from engine deceleration to acceleration.

I'm leaving the baffles out now, altho who knows if this improvement has everything to do with resetting the ECU

 

Question. Just finished this mod with baffles and both screens removed. Nice exhaust note and engine sound. Getting a bit of rough idle. Would reset the ECU but dont know if it will effect the reflash done by the dealer. HAve a feeling this may be a noob question, with an obvious answer.

 

^ Won't affect the re-flash. You can't get it erased unless it's flashed by something else.

If you still have rough idle, you might want to put one screen back in.

 

guess I'll reset the ECU and see what happens. I'll post my results

 

run with one screen here, since my front screen torn apart by stupid guy who change my intake anyway,i'm still with the baffles on and reset the ecu,so far no prob with idle issue

 

Really intrested in doing this mod, will it damage engine?

How do you reset the ECU after making these changes to the air box?

 

No engine damage at all.

 

renesis, update that reset procedure to ur 1st post, i had to dig like hell to find it, i just removed the "wall" and am happy with the sound. screen will wait another day XD.

 

Done.

 

cheers for that infomation, I will be trying this over the weekend.

 

Well, it took half an hour and one can of beer to remove the baffles and "drop-in" a K&N filter. I let the screens untouched, as here in Romania there is more dust than air. So far I've noticed a rather signifiant sound increase, at 6000+ RPM you can't understand what the passanger is saying, and that's the good part. You don't need to have a conversation while driving any more. So it keeps you focused on the road. Great mod !

 

yeah i just did mine in 20 mins today, but i must say one word of advice

at first i had a little trouble taking out the box (just got my 8) so i ran the car for a few mins to warm up the engine compartment and it sliped out easily, the heat loosens up the rubber gromlets and it comes out no problem

just a tip for anyone pulling away at their box!

 

sorry for my ignorance but what screens are you guys talking about. i recently removed the two walls and it sounds great but wats up with the screen mods?

 

Personally, I would just remove the baffles/walls/resonance filter/whatever you guys want to call it and leave the mesh screens in there. The screens that everyone's talking about are the two in the pipe. They're designed to straighten out airflow so that the MAF can read it easier.

 

Great Mod! Worth your 15mins!

I played around with this mod a lot. I tried the entire bottom half of the intake off. Taking the walls out. Taking the bell out. Screens out. All combos therein. Then when i just shut up and listened to how Renesis did it, everything was great.

I took both walls and both screens out while leaving the intake in tact and "dropping in" a K&N air filter. After doing this I reset the ECU (using the odo trick) drove around the block then reset the ECU (using the brake method) and tried to see the difference. It hasn't been long, and maybe its the placebo effect, but seemed to feel way better.

Nice call renesis.

Finally, I'm poor from buying my 8! Anything else that works this well and costs nothing? Keep me posted!

-8 noob