Asmoran

This particular mod is for the dividers, but since people are already in there for the dividers and the screens are so controversial, there's lots of debate about them.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

yes it could well be .

akhan48

Well I did the air box modification today, managed to get the air box out at last, never managed this before! I managed it this time by trying to get each lower gromlet out one by one. I dropped in a K+N panel filter and also took out the dividers. Reset the ECU as well.

Result?

Wow! It has completely changed the sound of the engine! In 3rd gear after 5,000rpms, the sound is fantastic! And when your accelerating and you take your foot off the gas, it makes a "new" noise which sounds great! Bit hard to explain these sounds, but it's definitely unlike anything I've ever heard!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Well - I put my dividers back in yesterday and my idle is better for it . No longer almost dies on me like it did while dividers were out.
I'm going to say best combination (for me) is :

remove both screens
fit K&N drop in
Fit RB duct
Seal connection RB duct to factory airbox

akhan48

That's interesting Brettus, I have no idling problems at all, same as before the mod. Did you reset the ECU?

eviltwinkie

I would say you should add 1 screen and remove the baffles...

The baffles are far more restrictive from a flow standpoint than the screen, and that restriction is what you are feeling as "better"...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

how do you figure that ? Surely a screen that the air has to go through is more restrictive than a baffle that just directs the air through the filter .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

but , you still have the mesh screens in - right ?
It seems to be a combination of the two that affects idle .

akhan48

Yes I only took out the dividers shown at the start of the thread, the big plastic things which you need a philips screw driver to remove.

Dominicano

Im sorry if i sound like 2 much of a noob or a bother but would someone mind posting a youtube on how 2 do this whole procedure...or maybe point me to a thread that might have a video or pictures thanks.

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

getting out the airbox is the tricky part. do you see where it there is a big rubber hose going from the intake to the throttle body? (i think thats what it is ) you need to disconnect that, then you can pull the intake box out. once its out, undo the clips on the front.

i have a k&n drop in, and i did this today. as well as removing the second screen. i left the one in the bell housing as the bell was being a bitch. the sound is a lot nicer and i have 0 idling issues.

edit: searching really does wonders: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw6Gk0Z8IrA

Tigerfootball

well, I took the walls out and one screen out, drove for a long time. Had very rough idle. I reset the ECU, still no good. So, tonight I kept one screen out and replaced the walls, and wouldn't you know, idle was smooth once again while out for a drive. guess each car acts differently to this mod.

eviltwinkie

Heh...sorry for the delay...I'z been busy....

The screen while "restrictive" helps to even out the flow over the sensor...

The "baffles" prevent the entire filter from being used, forcing instead just the little part near the air horn to do all the work.

When you remove the "baffles" the entire filter surface can be used and flow is not restricted to a small area.

The quality of your filter might also have something to do with the problem. Perhaps its clogged or cannot flow enough air.

chetrickerman

its the screens, not the walls. put both of the screens back in.

Spinning Sushi

iTrader: (21)

I noticed that people are having alot of problems after removing the mesh screen that sits right behind the horn and right before the MAF. I, myself, did not remove this. I understand how those mesh screen are there to straighten airflow to the MAF so in removing them, the MAF won't be able to read the air correctly. I simply removed the two resonance walls so that there's a larger air intake surface. So, basically, I highly recommend not remove the screens, only remove the walls.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

not quite correct twinkie my old mate . heh
The baffles are a good 25mm (1 inch in olden day terms) away from the screen - they do not prevent flow through any part of the filter .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I highly recomend to remove both screens but not the baffles but that's what makes the world go round eh

From what I can gather you can do one or the other but not both . But removing the screens will give you more hp - the baffles not .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

take the other screen out and leave the walls in - if it still runs fine that will be two of us to prove this .

Spinning Sushi

iTrader: (21)

Interesting. I understand how it might restrict airflow with the screens there but isn't it's designed to straighten the airflow? Personally, I like to keep the screen there just in case. Well, not that it matters to me, I don't have my OEM Intake box anymore. Maybe I should re-do the entire DIY or make a "Version II" of it.

eviltwinkie

Heh...unfortunately I will still have to disagree with you...instead of reviewing the principles of fluid dynamics...I have a very simple "proof"...

I run a "Green" washable panel filter...prior to performing the mod and upon doing post-track day maintenance...it was clear the baffles were restricting air flow...

Visual inspection of the filter revealed what appeared to be slightly < than 45% of the filter's surface (the part directly between the baffles) was dirty. The area was dark and filtered particles were clearly visible. Upon shining a light thru the filter the areas around the baffles were clean and free of embedded particulates.

Removing the baffles, during another post-track maintenance day...the filter's surface was pretty uniform at ~80% dirty. Instead of a dark black "hot spot" of filth...the whole filter was pretty much a uniform color.

The baffles are used to create noise pockets to reduce the intake noise. Those "pockets" are basically pools of air...some of the air from those areas "leaks" from the baffle side to the middle chamber...but not much...air takes the path of least resistance so the LEAST amount of pressure will be directly in front of the air horn.

If you are running a stock filter, I would imagine its not going to help much as the whole filter is pretty restrictive...but if you are running a nice hi-flow filter...the difference is DEFINITELY noticeable...both in amount of air available, as well as filter utilization.

The screens also provide a restriction...but on purpose to help even out the air flow...the baffles on the other hand were put in there specifically ONLY for noise purposes...they provide no other function than noise suppression...which it accomplishes with the side effect of additional restriction.

=)

eviltwinkie

Removing the screens is worth maybe under ~1hp...

Removing the baffles simply increases the amount of available air, and increases its ability to flow...

eviltwinkie

Is he running a high flow filter or the stock?

I would recommend he test by...removing the air horn screen...and adding the MAF screen back...

You want the air even when it hits the MAF...

wireaddict

I've said it before, but the VFAD is not just a noise muffler from Mazda...
When the rotary engine is below 5500rpm, the air is slightly restricted and the fuel mixture is richer to promote higher torque. Modifying the Sequential Dynamic Air Induction system may add horsepower at higher rpms, but it hurts your practical power to the wheels at lower revs. The reason aftermarket intakes have so little affect on power??? Because the engineers at Mazda Japan are damn good at what they are doing! These aftermarket "performance" houses are just trying to make a buck off of us. I mean seriously, Mazda has a complex 5 way dynamic induction system and we think we can improve that by sticking an anodized aluminum pipe on the front end??? Buy a good quality OEM fitting filter and go spend your money on an exhaust!
If anything, the VFAD forward of the filter box is there to help gas mileage.
Search SDAIS for more info.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

good info evil (good how you can be either of two names depending on mood )
However the point I made is that air can still flow through the rest of the filter . I suspect that when the filter in front of the horn starts to block that the rest of the filter starts doing its job . I just clean my filter frequently - you have to with the RB duct as it sucks in lots of bugs .

stuartm

I've been running with no baffles & the first screen removed(k&n panel filter) for over 18 months without any side effects .
It's never stalled or had idling issuses.