Im surprised you didn't have domo-kun in your snapshots of the airbox


I saw those bastard-looking "fin-walls" in my air box when I recently cleaned my k&n... dammti, now I gotta go BACK in just to take those ****-blockers out

 

I removed both baffles, both screens, and added the k&n drop-in several months ago. Haven't had any idle issues and engine note seems louder

 

Quick question- where is the ecu and how does one reset it?

 

LOL!

Gimme a second, I'll search for the method right now.

 

I can't seem to find the exact post that states how to reset the ECU.

There are a couple of procedures and consists of two phases.
Step 1: Warm up your car
Step 2: Turn it off, take out the key.
Step 3: Put the key back in, turn it to the ON position but do not start the car.
Step 4: Step on the brake pedal 20 times or until you see your oil pressure gauge sweep up and back down.
Step 5: Take out the key.

PHASE ONE COMPLETE!

Step 1: Put the key back in.
Step 2: Hold down on the Trip Meter Reset button (DO NOT LET GO)
Step 3: Turn the ignition to on, do not start the car.
Now, the Trip Meter should read TEST.
Step 4: Turn off the car and take out the key.
Step 5: START THE CAR. Drive around for about 15 minutes so the ECU will relearn everything. CONGRATULATIONS!

 

ALL HEIL DAS DOMO-KUN!


Oh, and i appreaciate your timely and thorough reply

 

Thanks!

I should have my Custom Fab'ed Exhaust DIY done by either the end of this week and my HID Fog Retro done by the end of the month.

 

I just took out the walls and admittably cannot tell a difference... bad or good. My thinking is that using the whole filter instead of just 1/3 of it makes more sense so I am going to keep them out :D Ive also read about taking out the screens or one of them but Ive decided to keep them in, id rather protect my RENESIS than free up a horse or two...

 

those sceens do nothing to protect - thety are there to smooth out the airflow so the maf can get a stable reading . In fact mine almost broke off and went into the motor. It would have made quite a mess if it had done

 

just did this mod. works great! idle was rough at first then everything just smoothed out. drove around the block and on to a nice little straight and went heavy on the throttle from 2nd through 4th. it was a lot smoother and pulled nicely all the way to 9 grand. :-) I say do it just for smoothing out the idle and never having to replace the filter again... if anything was gained (which I doubt) the butt dyno seemed to feel it. sounds good too.

 

I dropped in the K&N panel filter when I first bought the car. I couldn't get the box out, could barely get it open- but did enough to swap filters.

This past weekend I installed the Revi Air Duct to my stock box with the K&N. I used the plumbquik adapter recommended in the DIY to connect to the stock box. My box isn't seated exactly right so the duct doesn't mate to it as well as I'd like. I think I can fix this but I need to take the stock box out, which seems to be a pain in the ****. Anyway, since I'm going to be working on the duct seal this weekend I figure I'll gut the box. Seems that removing the baffles and 1st screen is the way to go.

1)- K&N drop in
2)- Revi Duct with good seal to stock box
3)- Stock box with removed baffles and 1st screen

That's my plan of attack. I noticed a small difference with just the drop in K&N and a smoother idle and acceleration with the VFAD removed and Revi duct attached. I'm hoping that removing the baffles and 1 screen (and improving the duct seal) will be the ideal solution for a cost effective and (slightly) better performing intake.

I'll post my results after the mod this weekend.

PS: I reset my NVRAM and KAM after I removed the VFAD and installed the duct. Car idles better as I mentioned, but at one point during the first drive both passenger and driver side airbag indicators came on. The passenger side light went off eventually, but the the driver side stayed on until I turned off the car. It hasn't come on again...yet. Wierd.

 

I did this mod to my car... took both walls and screens out... drove it for 2 weeks like that before I put them all back in... I did notice the stumble at idle after taking everything out, after doing the mod I LOST throttle response, and I LOST some low end torque, my car felt a lot more lazy... I suspect this was because the maf can't get the quality of reading it needs without the screens... my car didn't sound any different (that was the whole reason I did the mod... wanted the sound). There is ONE cool thing I noticed... Normally when I wash my car I use a presoaped brillo pad (the ones for cleaning dishes) to clean all the carbon deposits off the outside and as far inside as you can see into my exhaust... the whole 2 weeks I had my airbox modified the exhaust stayed squeaky clean (even on the inside of the pipe!!!) the day after I put the screens and walls back in I once again have carbon deposits... I think I'll just put a K&N drop in filter in her and move on to a more time worthy part of the car... Mazda really did a fine job on the intake... I've heard you can actually get 10-15hp out of a high flow cat and a good catback exhaust... so that's where I'm heading...

 

check this out ....
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/racing-beat-duct-factory-airbox-97962/

 

Oh, why yes. That is a very good idea indeed!

 

Based on other reports it sounds like you can't take out both screens and the walls. You either have to leave the walls and remove the screens or leave one screen and take out the walls. Did you try it like this at all? And were you running with a high flow air filter or the stock filter?

 

Not trying to post ***** here, but I've been very active with this and I wanted to post my results (I couldn't wait until the weekend).

So I removed my airbox based on Expo's video and the DIY. WOW. A few little tricks made that PITA job a LOT easier. I had it out in under 2 minutes. Something the frightened me was the thought of the bottom grommets falling through down into the fan. I heard this happened to Stealth and a few other members. I don't know if Mazda changed the design or if I'm missing something (I hope not), but the way the grommets are on my car I don't see ANY WAY they could fall through. The diameter of the upper, rubber retaining ring is so large it simply can't "fall through". I don't think it could even be forced through the hole- it seems like you'd have to cut it apart. Anyway, I'm assuming I'm not missing anything and these are what fall through the holes. Mine seemed to stay in place and I used my fingers to check for rubber when I replaced the box- still there. So I guess I'm in good shape.

Once the box was out I was able to reach in and reseat the plumbquick pipe that I used to connect my Revi duct to the airbox. It was off center before, now it completely envelopes the opening to the airbox. Sweet. A little bit of weather stripping and there will be a perfect seal.

I took the fin walls out, no sweat.

I took the horn out, no sweat.

I tried to remove the front of the horn, uh oh. Sweat. I couldn't get that damn thing off no matter what I tried. I ended up pulling really, really, really hard while pushing down one of the plastic catches and it eventually FLUNG off- skinning my knuckle in the process. The plastic around the bottom of the top piece of the horn ended up breaking in spots. Fortunately it still clips on securely, but the plastic is weakened with hairline fractures. I'm going to use some superglue just to ensure it doesn't fracture further, but I doubt it will be a problem. I got lucky I guess.

I removed that screen and kept the one closest to the MAF in place. Everything I've read on the forum leads me to believe this is the best solution.

So I have a K&N filter in place, 1 screen removed and no fin walls. Plus the Revi duct is directly connected to the airbox with no gap. As far as I can tell this is the best intake solution.

I reset both the KAM and NVRAM and let the car idle for 5 minutes. The car has been driven twice now for a total of 25 miles through all gears. It has been sunny and 55 degrees here in MD. Results:

1) My idle is actually SMOOTHER than it was before. With each intake mod I do the idle seems to get smoother. There is no stumbling what-so-ever.

2) Without a doubt the acceleration is smoother across the entire power band.

3) The car sounds like it's running smoother. Silk. I didn't notice much of a change in the overall sound, but at WOT at 7k and above there is a slightly more aggressive tone.

4) Throttle response may be slightly better, maybe not. Could be placebo.

5) No noticeable increase in power.

6) No noticeable negative effects (as of yet anyway).

Overall: Car just seems to run "smoother" in all aspects with a very small (pleasant) increase in sound. I'm very happy with this mod at this point. All in the cost was $150 (Revi duct plus K&N) and I think it was worth the money and time. I don't believe there is a better option for the intake aside from adding the Racing Beat box, but I don't feel the insignificant gain over what I have already accomplished is worth the money.

Next up- Racing Beat exhaust and flash.

 

It's going to be impossible to notice a 1-2whp gain btw.

 

You have a loose airbag connection. It seems to be a common thing with our cars. Just disconnect then reconnect all of them if the airbag light won't turn off, it worked for me and many others.

 

Of course. I know. It's all about unleashing every pony there is, even if it's 1 or 2. And hey, it was free!

The idle is smoother now and the car runs smoother. No doubt about that at all.

 

ALL HAIL DOMO-KUN HAAHAH...hes a life saver ; )

 

No problem.

 

1. I removed the plastic baffles, but kept both screens.

My theory is the air flow would increase, but be more turbulent, so I kept the screens.

2. I have a less restrictive air filter. R-Magic air filter (which claims 5HP by itself). I have the Odula air intake duct and catch can w/ breather (no dirty air/fumes from crankcase). So the combination of these might add to the slight increase of performance that I felt. This did not feel like a 1-2 HP effect. More like 5HP or so. Positive effect showed up on 0-60 and HP rating of my G-Timer GT2.

Opinion- Mod is worth it.

Pro- I noticed a definite increase in throttle response and better acceleration. Noticeable effect on low end. I think this is definitely giving you more air/air flow.

Con- My idle became crappy though, but after ECU reset and some time, returned to near normal. Slight increase in sound at higher speeds.

 

Anybody figure out a replacement for the air horn bell mouth in the intake box? I want to see what a round one would do.

 

I also use the RMagic air filter with an air duct. One thing I have to say is that I agree with your statements about the overall feel of the car after installation. The midrange feels slightly more responsive, and up high the revs seem a bit more willing. I would not assume a +5 whp increase, rather a more smooth power band.

 

what screen r u guys talking about?

is it the horn shape thing?

any picture???