RX8 hand held Flash tuner?
A MAF is a MAF, for the most part. They aren't interchangable, but they all do the same thing.
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
It would take some dyno time, but it wouldn't be too difficult if you have access to the OEM PCM airflow tables.
Better than a monkey!
Here it is:
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
It would take some dyno time, but it wouldn't be too difficult if you have access to the OEM PCM airflow tables.
Originally Posted by zoom44
probab;y take me longer than MM sinc ehe doesnt have a 1 yr old tryign to climb onto his back
Here it is:
Last edited by MazdaManiac; Jan 5, 2006 at 11:12 AM.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
A MAF is a MAF, for the most part. They aren't interchangable, but they all do the same thing.
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
use the one from the ford GT - it has more room i thinkl- i read an article just 2 days ago about someone switching to the GT maf for a mustang SC project
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the lightning has a 90 mm MAF unit calibrated for 42# or 440 cc, it is a very popular meter to put on any ford motor. You can find them new or used from $50-$100.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; Jan 5, 2006 at 11:58 AM.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
A MAF is a MAF, for the most part. They aren't interchangable, but they all do the same thing.
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
It would take some dyno time, but it wouldn't be too difficult if you have access to the OEM PCM airflow tables.
Better than a monkey!
Here it is:
The idea would be to use one of the other MAFs for a Ford product like the Cobra and re-write the translation table into the PCM.
It would take some dyno time, but it wouldn't be too difficult if you have access to the OEM PCM airflow tables.
Better than a monkey!
Here it is:
You're right, this isn't something difficult to do. This is something that we're doing with the Ford's already. We've even designed our own 95mm meter with our own custom transfer function so we can support vehicles up to 925 hp (far after the stock meter has "pegged"). I was just wondering if there was another brand meter already out (with their own custom transfer function). If so, I probably need to check it out. I have all the factory Ford meters covered already.
Edit: oops, didn't mean to attach the picture
Last edited by fastsvtss; Jan 5, 2006 at 01:10 PM.
No, there aren't as yet any aftermarket AFMs calibrated for our purpose. Most people are handling boost with the addition of a MAP sensor.
The OEM MAF will handle about 50% over maximum possible N/A flow.
The OEM MAF will handle about 50% over maximum possible N/A flow.
RX8 and a Truk....
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From: OKC
Originally Posted by cleoent
If this isn't too good to be true, and you can keep it affordable (definitely not over 1k, hopefully around the 600 and under range), you could sign me up today.
As a guideline for pricing - my Wife just got an SCT tuner for her F150....$450 loaded with Three custom tunes by troyerperformance.com. EXCELLENT and easy device to use.
:D
RX8 and a Truk....
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From: OKC
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
ABS controls/affects Speed info
thoughts?
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by zoom44
use the one from the ford GT - it has more room i thinkl- i read an article just 2 days ago about someone switching to the GT maf for a mustang SC project
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by dmp
Any idea how a new TB would work with our Electronic Throttle? Seems we'd need a cable-throttle conversion, no?
Last edited by Japan8; Jan 5, 2006 at 08:12 PM.
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From: Europe
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
OK. Fair enough.
The most important things would be direct fuel and timing control in full 3-D and the time/load overlays. This would mean all six injectors, all four coils and the split table.
Also, in connection with this, would be control over A/F targets and the WBO2S with control over the open/closed-loop entry points. Without that, any of the timing and fuel changes would just throw CELs.
Speed limiting and FAN control would be at the bottom of the list.
Next, I would go for control of the NBO2S, DBW throttle and S-DAIS followed by CAN priorities (AUX devices like TPMS, EPS and ABS/TCS) and then PCM aux stuff like fans, A/C, etc.
It is important that the fuel/timing control be on four axis - RPM, airflow, throttle position and time.
The most important things would be direct fuel and timing control in full 3-D and the time/load overlays. This would mean all six injectors, all four coils and the split table.
Also, in connection with this, would be control over A/F targets and the WBO2S with control over the open/closed-loop entry points. Without that, any of the timing and fuel changes would just throw CELs.
Speed limiting and FAN control would be at the bottom of the list.
Next, I would go for control of the NBO2S, DBW throttle and S-DAIS followed by CAN priorities (AUX devices like TPMS, EPS and ABS/TCS) and then PCM aux stuff like fans, A/C, etc.
It is important that the fuel/timing control be on four axis - RPM, airflow, throttle position and time.
Fabrice
Originally Posted by Rasputin
And I would just add "target idle speed" table.
Fabrice
Fabrice
All kinds of throttle response, fuel consumption and vibration issues would be fixed for a lot of people just by raising the idle speed to 950 RPM.
Maurice mentioned to me at some point a few month ago that the idle fuel consumption went down by something like 40% or 50% just by raising the idle to 1k.
I know that there is a significantly "rougher" feeling to the idle when mine settles to a stop and drops that last 100 RPM from the 950 coast setting to the 850 stationary setting.
The A/Fs don't look any richer (mine idles at 14:9 to 15:1), but it sure feels that way.
I know that there is a significantly "rougher" feeling to the idle when mine settles to a stop and drops that last 100 RPM from the 950 coast setting to the 850 stationary setting.
The A/Fs don't look any richer (mine idles at 14:9 to 15:1), but it sure feels that way.
Split.....