you have not "lost hp" Staticlag - more likely variations in the dyno setup or atmospheric conditions .

 

Graph Overlay:



notice the longer "sweet spot" up top where the engine is holding it's power.

Also notice the much better AFR, going up to 13.914 at 5557 rpms.

Also notice how much HP is lost throughout the power band.

Yellow, Magenta, and Teal are previous results.

 

This sucks I was really hopeing your #'s would be better Even though loosing 9 HP could be atributed to variations in the dyno setup or atmospheric conditions, it still doesn't explain the CEL Once you find out what's the code please post

 

Well, the dyno shop moved locations to a new building, but it was still the same dyno as last time. I guess the argument could be made that something got messed up or the ventilation of the buildings were not the same, because last time the car had access to two open bay doors. one in front of it and one behind it, whereas this time the only bay door that was open in the shop was behind the car.

Fan configuration was the same, one fan at oil cooler, one fan pointing at the RB duct and the radiator.

ABS/DSC fuse was pulled from under the hood just like last time.

I was running 91 octane this time also and Royal Purple 5w20.

Temperature was the about the same each day 50-60s.

All I know is that before 6209 it looks the same then it takes a massive crap on its face up to about 9K, I have a security light that blinks and a CEL. I'm not happy with racing beat at this moment.

 

Perhasp some things to look into...

1) your original HP curve looks too smooth, no dips at the normal points. Your new one looks 'more normal'. Did they use a different smoothing the 2nd time?

2) Your CEL, could it actually be unrelated to the RB Flash, but a coil or CAT CEL? You really need to discover this. The Flash may have tipped the scale to cause the CEL of an impending code or it might be just fate. You really need......

3) Doesn't it seem wrong that a 'better' a/f ratio would cause loss of power? Something wrong there... a bad cat esp. can cause massive power loss or coils failing.

4) the change of dyno locations is worrying because they could have assembled/setup the thing differently too.

Keep working on it...I can't (yet) believe RB is cutting (!!!) power with their flash for $300!

Good luck.

 

ordered scanalyser, should be here on wednesday.

 

something aint right?! Where is the 2nd torque line. Also the rb flash is suppose to smooth out the intake dips but yours shows just the opposite?. The dyno reads rpm that accurately? 8739K? Damn
Olddragger

 

ur AFR looks much better, which should relate to more power, i dunno wat went wrong with the 9hp.. but dynos arent very consistent anyways, but AFR measurement should always be right!
________
PerfectJOYce

 

something isn't right with your dyno measurements. If the AFR readings are correct, you'd have gotten a nice gain.

 

The data is from a actual log of the dyno's values that I inputted into excel, I have the smoothed graph the dyno place gave me but it isn't very informative. So there is no smoothing, just raw data. I'll add the other torque line.

 

I dont have the other torque values, the dyno place cut off that part of the sheet.

 

Staticlag, I think the drop might be related to do doing the run with 91 Octane versus 87 on your first run. My car pulls harder with the 87 Octane.

 

I have pending code in my ECU now, I didnt pull it out because I get pending code everytime I pull my battery cable (and the code was system running rich)

Im just gonna wait a few days and see what happens.

 

Did that start w/the reflash? That's obviously not normal. And a 'rich' CEL when the flash is supposed to lean things out... your dyno show is DOES lean things out...yet....? Stranger still...

 

One thing you can be sure of Staticlag is that there will be no difference in power lower down the rpm range . Your chart shows a difference so that should tell you right there that something is amiss with the chart.

 

I don't intend to assume anything negative but I wonder if the necessary prep-work was done prior to dyno, such as; top off oil, clean air filter/MAF, clean spark plugs, proper air pressure in tires, etc. Small stuff that is overlooked can cause huge headaches and we all know how excited we get when we have new toys. No offense intended, Static.

 

Well it happened to every single time I pull my battery plug (for whatever reasons)

This time maybe I should bring my laptop out and check .... actually, let me do that right now.

 

None taken,

I'm just trying to get this damn thing to work. I would really like it to be something that I or the dyno shop did, at this point I would really love to just clean my MAF or replace my CAt and get back to great performance. As opposed to me paying 300 bucks just to f-up my engine.

The oil has less than 1000 miles on it, topped off.

tires had 33 psi across the board.

Air filter & MAF were cleaned before winter storage less than 500 miles previously.

Spark plugs have less than 3K on them new from the recall.

I can accept that the dyno place could have screwed up their dyno during the move, but what I can't accept are the CEL and the security light flashing. All three together: bad dyno, CEL and security problems spell nothing but trouble with the flash. That and before the dyno I notice spilled antifreeze inside the engine near the radiator overflow cap vent location. At this point I'm wondering at what temp the fans are really turnging on at.

believe me guys, i want this to work, it sounds like an easy idea to send in ECU for instant better performance. but thus far I am unimpressed.

 

Most everybody else that had this mod are happy with the results. I agree re: the CEL, security, etc. Is it possible, at all, that the dyno results files have been mis-labelled and are reversed? I hate to ask such stupid questions because I would be annoyed in the first place if I were in this position and such questions would just further annoy me. I also know how you feel in the sense of wishing something were wrong just to be able to figure out what it is. For me, I had a bunch of problems stacking up and the solutions were elusive but I am slowly ironing them out. Between my oil-soaked air filter and crummy coils, they were the largest part of my problem. Now, I just need to re-build my engine to bring it back to top performance before I can really get my nitrous project fully focused.

 

the dyno results are the correct files, I watched the computer from pull to printout. that and the characteristic renesis dips at ~6k and ~7.5K are there from the ports opening.

 

damn! there goes that idea

 

I am hip on why the torque dips at those rpm points, which was why I asked about the files. I figured if the re-flash did was it was supposed to do then that would make sense. Now I too wonder what the deal is with the security light, which might mean that the PCM is no longer recognizing your key(but the car wouldn't start then would it?), what your CEL is for, and any other problems you might have.

 

video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5QHnzxAIoY

cheap camera really doesnt do the sound justice, after 4 pulls my ears rang for a few hours.

 

Damn, scanalyser doesnt work with my Windows XP 64 laptop

Emailed hymee for update version.

What security light are you talking about ? My car acts normal.

 

I have the standard flash and have none of the problems you listed. No CEL. I am going to dyno on March 31 so will see what the numbers are though I do not have a pre flash dyno.\

Maybe the race flash is messing you up?