Racing Beat Race Flash
02-21-2007, 12:12 PM
#52
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man i wish they would let me drive my car in....(ther not licensed to work on cars, only parts)
i have to get tri-point to pull out the ecu, my friend is going to drive me over to racing beat and back (hour long trip one way), and tri-point reinstalls the ecu and dyno the results.. tri-point doesnt beleive the gains, they want to see for themselves.
-im not mechanically inclined.. my brother got that gene.
i have to get tri-point to pull out the ecu, my friend is going to drive me over to racing beat and back (hour long trip one way), and tri-point reinstalls the ecu and dyno the results.. tri-point doesnt beleive the gains, they want to see for themselves.
-im not mechanically inclined.. my brother got that gene.
02-21-2007, 12:28 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by zoom44
Jorge i can tbelieve you havent done this yet- dont make me come down there and drive your car over there for you
I'm trying to set up a day to dyno my car and then I'll most likely be going this route. Soon my young Padawan learner, soon...
02-21-2007, 02:57 PM
#54
Always lurking
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I have a very high end aftermarket cat from overseas, nothing you've ever heard of
I received a beta race flash for '05 RX-8s last Sept., they may have changed it since then, it's in the archives
I received a beta race flash for '05 RX-8s last Sept., they may have changed it since then, it's in the archives
02-21-2007, 03:31 PM
#55
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So.. if I have intake, exhaust, and high flow cat (RP), Racing Beat still recommends the street flash? I do track my car a few times a year. Should I stick with the street flash to be safe I don't burn my cat out? Anyone know the power difference between the 2 flashes? If it's only 5hp or less, then I don't think the race version is worth the risk. But I would probably opt for it if the improvement were more than that.
02-21-2007, 04:02 PM
#56
Back in the day...
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Ya know, RB does have a return policy... Get it and if you don't see any difference, return the ecu, they'll reflash back to stock and continue on. I have the flash, and its worth the money. No problems, no CEL, I drove up the 101 from Long Beach to SF two days after the I got the flash.
If we are willing to spend $500 on an exhaust that gives 5hp and $350 for and intake that gives another 5hp. $300 for a flash that curves the rpms to pull and not level off and adds maybe 10hp doesn't seem to crazy now does it? If anyones in the SF area and wants too feel how the car feels with the flash feel free to PM me.
If we are willing to spend $500 on an exhaust that gives 5hp and $350 for and intake that gives another 5hp. $300 for a flash that curves the rpms to pull and not level off and adds maybe 10hp doesn't seem to crazy now does it? If anyones in the SF area and wants too feel how the car feels with the flash feel free to PM me.
02-21-2007, 06:16 PM
#57
Originally Posted by Jedi54
(keeping a close eye on this thread)
RB is only 15 minutes away from my office. SOOOO.....TEMPTING......
RB is only 15 minutes away from my office. SOOOO.....TEMPTING......
Paul.
02-21-2007, 06:21 PM
#58
Administrator
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Originally Posted by Mazmart
You won't regret it. Hurry up already
Paul.
Paul.
02-23-2007, 04:20 PM
#61
Chick, the turn-around time at RB is much quicker than that. Call/e-mail them and ask. Once they get the PCM in their hands it only takes a few minutes to upload the new flash and then they ship it right out the door.
02-23-2007, 07:38 PM
#63
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I'm sure if you overnight it, you are looking at a few days downtime at most. One day there, even one day to flash (like Charles said it's actually a 10 min job), and one day back.
02-23-2007, 07:59 PM
#64
The Professor
Thread Starter
Update: 2/23/2007
Installed EMU. When reinstalled and the car was started the security light was flashing constantly for about ten minutes then started flashing every 2 seconds. I went for a ten mile drive and it didn't stop flashing. This had me a little worried because I looked in the manual and when the security light flashes every two seconds while the car is running it indicates a security system malfunction. This was a bit of a pain but I didn't notice anything else wrong with the car. I checked the trunk and the hood and closed each numerous times in order to see if that was the problem. But nothing worked and even with the engine on the "security" light was still flashing. Car started and ran seemingly fine but that infernal light kept flashing. I was just getting ready to accept that this new light would flash forever when I decided to try something else.
So I got my other set of keys and my valet key and put them in my pocket while I put another fifteen miles on it. So I had a total of 3 keys on my person. About 5 miles into the second test run the light went off and stayed off. Sweet.
That was the first problem.
The second problem was that twice (2) I tried to start the car and right after cranking the RPMs dropped to zero and the engine stalled. The third time it started and kept running. Idle RPMs on my car are about 800 on the stock tach. Other than these hard starts the idle was nice and smooth at lights and while just idling in the driveway.
Third problem is that I can not do the 20 brake pedal pump any more. I refilled with a fresh tank of 91 octane premium and tried to do the pedal pump to reset my presets but the oil pressure gauge wouldn't sweep. The hold ODO switch while turning the car to on reset worked just fine though.
So enough of the problems.
First of all, I haven't driven my car in about 3 months because of the bad weather here.
But besides that, here is my review:
When I was driving around the very first five or so miles I maybe noticed a bit extra pump in the midrange.but I was in traffic so my revs were at max about 6K.
After driving about 25 more miles at a variety of speeds. I have concluded that this mod really did add some good stuff at about 5700K and above.
It seems like the best power on my car occurs in third gear at 7K and above. The car really does feel like a whole new car. It really feels great.
Is it worth $300?
I don't know if I would recommend this yet, let me log a few more miles and see if anything else pops up. Remember that I am running the RACE flash with a CAT. So time will tell.
I have only put about 30 miles on the car since this mod, and will give further review on powerband inprovements when I post my next dyno. But tomorrow it is forcasted to snow 6+ inches here. If I can get the dyno done tomorrow I will have results tomorrow, but if the weather turns bad tonight then it looks like 1 week or more to get dyno results on this.
Just from driving it tonight, my butt dyno says 213 to the wheels.
Installed EMU. When reinstalled and the car was started the security light was flashing constantly for about ten minutes then started flashing every 2 seconds. I went for a ten mile drive and it didn't stop flashing. This had me a little worried because I looked in the manual and when the security light flashes every two seconds while the car is running it indicates a security system malfunction. This was a bit of a pain but I didn't notice anything else wrong with the car. I checked the trunk and the hood and closed each numerous times in order to see if that was the problem. But nothing worked and even with the engine on the "security" light was still flashing. Car started and ran seemingly fine but that infernal light kept flashing. I was just getting ready to accept that this new light would flash forever when I decided to try something else.
So I got my other set of keys and my valet key and put them in my pocket while I put another fifteen miles on it. So I had a total of 3 keys on my person. About 5 miles into the second test run the light went off and stayed off. Sweet.
That was the first problem.
The second problem was that twice (2) I tried to start the car and right after cranking the RPMs dropped to zero and the engine stalled. The third time it started and kept running. Idle RPMs on my car are about 800 on the stock tach. Other than these hard starts the idle was nice and smooth at lights and while just idling in the driveway.
Third problem is that I can not do the 20 brake pedal pump any more. I refilled with a fresh tank of 91 octane premium and tried to do the pedal pump to reset my presets but the oil pressure gauge wouldn't sweep. The hold ODO switch while turning the car to on reset worked just fine though.
So enough of the problems.
First of all, I haven't driven my car in about 3 months because of the bad weather here.
But besides that, here is my review:
When I was driving around the very first five or so miles I maybe noticed a bit extra pump in the midrange.but I was in traffic so my revs were at max about 6K.
After driving about 25 more miles at a variety of speeds. I have concluded that this mod really did add some good stuff at about 5700K and above.
It seems like the best power on my car occurs in third gear at 7K and above. The car really does feel like a whole new car. It really feels great.
Is it worth $300?
I don't know if I would recommend this yet, let me log a few more miles and see if anything else pops up. Remember that I am running the RACE flash with a CAT. So time will tell.
I have only put about 30 miles on the car since this mod, and will give further review on powerband inprovements when I post my next dyno. But tomorrow it is forcasted to snow 6+ inches here. If I can get the dyno done tomorrow I will have results tomorrow, but if the weather turns bad tonight then it looks like 1 week or more to get dyno results on this.
Just from driving it tonight, my butt dyno says 213 to the wheels.
02-24-2007, 12:04 AM
#67
always filling [the c]up
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sounds awesome. i'll probably be scoring the street flash, dunno if i want a race flash - still debating. if i do get a race flash, i'll prolly get the replacement pipe and get rid of the SR 'high flow' and get the headers if/when RB starts to sell them.
can't wait to see the dryno reults though.
-Cody
can't wait to see the dryno reults though.
-Cody
02-24-2007, 12:30 PM
#70
Originally Posted by staticlag
The second problem was that twice (2) I tried to start the car and right after cranking the RPMs dropped to zero and the engine stalled.
02-24-2007, 01:53 PM
#71
I have had issues like that with other cars after replacing the ECU after chip/reprogram work. I know with many cars there was a first start procedure after re-installing the ECU that involved turning the key to on without starting for a period of several minutes to allow the newly installed ECU to make its logic and initial calibration connection to all of the cars sensors and ECU controlled devices. This baseline then allowed the car to start and run with no problems and it was able to then go through its adaptive process learning your cars driving environment(altitude, humidity, fuel, driving style, etc...). Failure to do this resulted in erratic starting, and poor running conditions until the ECU finally normalized. Does Racing Beat recommend anything like that? Perhaps the Mazda'z ECU's don't require it, but its just a thought.
JR
BTw- Thanks for the great info!! I for one am very interested in your longer-term observations on the RB racing re-flash. Other than the risk of having a Mazda dealership overwrite the flash during maintenance, a well developed ECU flash is an excellent baseline for adding a little performance and a lot more driveability especially when combined with other NA mods.
Jeff
JR
BTw- Thanks for the great info!! I for one am very interested in your longer-term observations on the RB racing re-flash. Other than the risk of having a Mazda dealership overwrite the flash during maintenance, a well developed ECU flash is an excellent baseline for adding a little performance and a lot more driveability especially when combined with other NA mods.
Jeff
Last edited by N10S; 02-24-2007 at 01:59 PM.
02-24-2007, 07:48 PM
#74
bingo
and I have found on my car whenever I unhook the battery etc , i have to crank the car for the 1st time NOT TOUCHING the throttle--let the engine search for its idle(mine will shut down a time or two) then let it idle for a little while. takes a day or 2 for my car to learn to idle again.
olddragger
and I have found on my car whenever I unhook the battery etc , i have to crank the car for the 1st time NOT TOUCHING the throttle--let the engine search for its idle(mine will shut down a time or two) then let it idle for a little while. takes a day or 2 for my car to learn to idle again.
olddragger
