TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I was referring to your latest 6/21/07 dyno and present mods

my custom exhaust manifold and exhaust= Lightweight duplicate of OE log manifold, very hi flow cat, all emissions/sound legal and nothing special

my wheels and tires = much bigger than OE and almost the same overall weight

my UP kit= AC delete is mostly a weight loss only since the AC doesn't operate at WOT, otherwise you have no clue how the ratios equate to your own UP kit, all of which you otherwise have claimed has little/no impact on RX-8 output improvement many times on the forum

my RB flash = maybe, maybe not ....

now with all these mods and flash you first showed losses and have now barely found more, however nobody ever won a dyno race, without running on the same dyno neither can accurately assess the actual difference between us, but at least my old dyno graph included an OE RX-8 run as some kind of comparative reference

Keef

I just realized that since the RB Race Flash doesn't need the chip in the key too start the engine, that a remote starter would be prime right now. Considering that I won't have too deal with having my engine detect a key, all I will have too do is install the remote starter too all the right wires and I'm done!

I felt like mentioning that on this thread because it seems like a good combination. BTW the remote starter I'm buying is Valet's 561t. Here's the DIY thread --> https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=valet+561t

g30ffman

Heres a dumb question... If the race flash is supposed to be more aggressive aka make more power because of more airflow etc than the street flash why are people only seeing such low figures? On the RB website the post a dyno for the street flash and the graph shows 210+ hp, so how is everyone running the race flash getting significantly lower figures? I ask because i'm interested in the flash but probably the street flash.

Keef

the only thing the race flash specify is too have no cat and a free flowing exhaust system. They also mention how they richen the mid-range (because who cares how high your exhaust temp's are when you don't have a cat) you get an added (what I loved the most) improvement from 3,000-6,000 RPM's which is a different feeling of power compared too 6,000 RPM's and higher.

SE3PSynergy

keef... have you done a dyno on your car since? I'm very interested in seeing the results..

staticlag

Dyno used.

g30ffman

ah.. good marketing =) i'm curious to see what my 8 dynos at stock... want to get the reflash thou..

Keef

Nope never dynoed my car...

Targatheory

I've read through the whole thread, and others, and did not find a specific answer for this.

I am planning on doing the Racing Beat street flash this month. I have no plans at all for turbo, my car will stay na. That said, I need some probably obvious guidance on this process. The download pdf orderform on the rb website, theres that area where you fill in your information. But how do you actually pay? Do I need to call rb first, set up an appoint for them to expect my pcm in the mail? I didn't see any payment options such as choosing shipping company etc. Or do I just put my pcm in a box, label it with the address, send it to them, wait for a call to pay over the phone? And realistically, if I have about a week and a half of winter break, will I have a driveable car by the time its over? (i know people have said a few days turnaround, i just wanna make sure so that i'm not stuck away from school) thanks

Also, the information regarding the immobilization is confusing me. Does that mean that after the rb flash, the engine no longer needs the chip to start the engine, as in any drugstore key cut could turn the engine on? So no need to program keys? Does the flash delete the history of registered keys titled to the car? what about the security systems like the GTs have, door lockunlock trunk open? will those fuctions still work?
I ask because I also need to get a second key, and worried that if i get the new key soon (plannin on switchblade mod), then do the flash, my new keys might not work...

staticlag

The racing beat street flash does nothing to the key chip function or the security system.

You download the PDF, it should have a space for your credit card info. It did on the old order forms, fill it out, put it in a box, and send it to them. If it doesn't they will probably call you when they get the box and ask you to give them your credit card #. Shipping is the standard 2-3 day airmail, this is the default you will get, if you want next day shipping or so you need to call them up and specially request it. Its pretty easy just like ordering something old-school "mail-order"

RedefineRX8

iTrader: (-1)

hey guys whats up, I've been lurking this forum for a while but decided to actually sign up recently. I called racing beat today to find out information about their flashes directly from them, the rep I talked to told me there was almost a fraction of a horsepower difference between the race and street flash. He told me the only real benefit of the race flash was for cars that spent the MAJORITY of their time at 7k rpms or above and there was little else different between the two flashes. This thread says otherwise in a few spots claiming the low end is affected, I'm kind of confused. Help?

staticlag

low end is not affected in either flash, changes are made 5K+

RedefineRX8

iTrader: (-1)

thanks, so I guess I'm just better off with the street flash then. Thanks a lot man.

staticlag

Yeah, I would recommend street flash to anyone that daily drives their car.

sauceyI986

so with this flash does this means more flames from the exhaust

staticlag

Fewer, because it leans out the AFR.

staticlag

The problem with the flames was most likely misfires from the rx7 plugs.