interest in how to cool your engine thread?
09-01-2010, 09:23 PM
#176
Help please.
We have at least 2 posts that say 160 degrees is too low. I looked at Mazmart, it says 76 degrees, I assume C. That is 168.8 degrees. Does 8.8 degrees really make all that much difference?
OD said the MM one is all the way open at 180. My guess is that it is half open somewhere in the mid 170's. That sounds better, I think. If on a cool day, going down the highway at 80, I have an engine temp of 175, is that dangerous?
I keep thinking that one that opens at 180 would be grand, then all the way open at 190, still well under the stock one. But, nobody makes that right?
Thanks
We have at least 2 posts that say 160 degrees is too low. I looked at Mazmart, it says 76 degrees, I assume C. That is 168.8 degrees. Does 8.8 degrees really make all that much difference?
OD said the MM one is all the way open at 180. My guess is that it is half open somewhere in the mid 170's. That sounds better, I think. If on a cool day, going down the highway at 80, I have an engine temp of 175, is that dangerous?
I keep thinking that one that opens at 180 would be grand, then all the way open at 190, still well under the stock one. But, nobody makes that right?
Thanks
09-01-2010, 11:44 PM
#178
I wouldn't worry about that temp... mine can be between 175 and 180 on a cool day.
And remember, the opening temp on a thermostat is just that... the temp it opens.
That doesn't mean your coolant will run 10 degrees colder at all times with the REmedy thermostat.
I've monitored my temps through gauges and the AccessPORT with the OEM water pump and thermostat and then with the REmedy combination.
The temps were consistent at cruising speed down the highway.
And remember, the opening temp on a thermostat is just that... the temp it opens.
That doesn't mean your coolant will run 10 degrees colder at all times with the REmedy thermostat.
I've monitored my temps through gauges and the AccessPORT with the OEM water pump and thermostat and then with the REmedy combination.
The temps were consistent at cruising speed down the highway.
09-01-2010, 11:47 PM
#179
I mean if the REmedy water pump is flowing alot better while also helping prevent caviatation along with the Thermostat which opens up at 180, shouldnt you have lower temperatures? I have an idea why temps were consistent but I will hold that thought back until you tell me...
09-02-2010, 12:09 AM
#184
I will be honest, I wonder how my temps will look in the winter though, It does get below freezing about 10 days out of the year... Considering my school is about 1-2 miles away I will monitor my temps and if they dont get up to normal operating temps I will just have to wake up and take the longer route...
09-02-2010, 12:15 AM
#185
And that is the point Brettus pointed out with colder climate...
With the OEM TS, the valve will begin to close and allow the coolant to recirculate through the engine and keep it "up to temp".
The REmedy will stay fully open longer.
I live in Ohio where temps can get into the high 90s/low 100s, but I also park the 8 in the winter so I'm not as worried about it.
With the OEM TS, the valve will begin to close and allow the coolant to recirculate through the engine and keep it "up to temp".
The REmedy will stay fully open longer.
I live in Ohio where temps can get into the high 90s/low 100s, but I also park the 8 in the winter so I'm not as worried about it.
09-02-2010, 05:51 AM
#187
Hrm..thinking about the thermostat at least myself for a cheap upgrade to get the coolant through the engine sooner. On the worst day I was in going to a race track stuck in jammed traffic water temps hit 230F and oil 220F. Water goes up quick to 200F easily in slow traffic on a very hot and humid day as it's near the opening temperature of the OEM thermostat so that's not real surprising, running 50/50 mix. I also only use my car in the spring/fall so the coldest it sees is maybe high 40's / low 50's in the fall during the morning only before I put it away for winter.
09-02-2010, 07:48 AM
#188
Thanks all.
So, my thoughts, folks with the mm thermostat are seeing 175 to 180 degrees F in cruse mode, even on cool days. That seems sufficiently above the 168 degree spec for the MM 'stat (76 C, 168 F) to be livable. At the track, it will climb quickly, likely on the warm-up lap. All other times, I will have a cooler radiator, which will also radiate less heat to A/C and will cool the freaking heater core that leaches heat into the A/C.
Brettus, I value your opinion, I live outside Orlando Florida, so I rarely even see freezing. Do you consider a record low of 29 degrees a cooler climate and cause for concern? This is a world wide group, and we have lots of climates. Also, I drive easy on the street. Track is another story, but I have to force the red-line (OK 6K) a day for maintenance purposes. There are just no roads that provide any entertainment unless at least 50 MPH over the limit.
And yes, this weekend the AP goes in to monitor temps. I do not want to touch anything else with DE coming up next weekend. I am even concerned with just installing the AP without any maps. Call me conservative. Do I have anything to worry about?
Thanks again.
So, my thoughts, folks with the mm thermostat are seeing 175 to 180 degrees F in cruse mode, even on cool days. That seems sufficiently above the 168 degree spec for the MM 'stat (76 C, 168 F) to be livable. At the track, it will climb quickly, likely on the warm-up lap. All other times, I will have a cooler radiator, which will also radiate less heat to A/C and will cool the freaking heater core that leaches heat into the A/C.
Brettus, I value your opinion, I live outside Orlando Florida, so I rarely even see freezing. Do you consider a record low of 29 degrees a cooler climate and cause for concern? This is a world wide group, and we have lots of climates. Also, I drive easy on the street. Track is another story, but I have to force the red-line (OK 6K) a day for maintenance purposes. There are just no roads that provide any entertainment unless at least 50 MPH over the limit.
And yes, this weekend the AP goes in to monitor temps. I do not want to touch anything else with DE coming up next weekend. I am even concerned with just installing the AP without any maps. Call me conservative. Do I have anything to worry about?
Thanks again.
09-02-2010, 08:20 AM
#189
thermostats will not regulate max temps. They will regulate only minimum temps.
A cooling system has to be coordinated and complemetry. You dont want temp fluctuations occurring. A cooling system with too much capacity can be a bad thing especially when running a too hot thermostat. What will happen is the therm will open, the system will overcool and then the therm will close. It will bounce back and forth in a cycle and the temp will vary all over the place. Engines/ metals etc do not lke this.
So when adding to the cooling system--think about what you are doing and dont just throw things in there.
A lower opening thermostat is not going to make your car run cooler when the system doesnt have the capacity (airflow being part of this system). It may delay the overheating just a little, but the problem is still there.
A proper thermostat however is VERY important in having a balanced system and that is where the MM water pump and thermostat work so well together.
Totally agree with Bret. Proper operating temps for many reasons should not be any lower than 170F. In the winter months in Middle Ga--i do have a problem with this from time to time. I actually have to disconnect my 2nd small radiator and have to add block offs to the oil coolers. This is when the ambients are in the high 30's--40's.
There is another entire thread about engine warm ups/temps so lets not get distracted.
OD
A cooling system has to be coordinated and complemetry. You dont want temp fluctuations occurring. A cooling system with too much capacity can be a bad thing especially when running a too hot thermostat. What will happen is the therm will open, the system will overcool and then the therm will close. It will bounce back and forth in a cycle and the temp will vary all over the place. Engines/ metals etc do not lke this.
So when adding to the cooling system--think about what you are doing and dont just throw things in there.
A lower opening thermostat is not going to make your car run cooler when the system doesnt have the capacity (airflow being part of this system). It may delay the overheating just a little, but the problem is still there.
A proper thermostat however is VERY important in having a balanced system and that is where the MM water pump and thermostat work so well together.
Totally agree with Bret. Proper operating temps for many reasons should not be any lower than 170F. In the winter months in Middle Ga--i do have a problem with this from time to time. I actually have to disconnect my 2nd small radiator and have to add block offs to the oil coolers. This is when the ambients are in the high 30's--40's.
There is another entire thread about engine warm ups/temps so lets not get distracted.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 09-02-2010 at 08:28 AM.
09-02-2010, 08:20 AM
#190
SPOOLN8
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Haha... you don't know cold!!
09-02-2010, 07:48 PM
#193
09-04-2010, 10:39 AM
#196
NAPA has a 170, I will pick it up and test it for open and closed temp. It is listed for a 00 626. the one listed for our car is also listed as the direct replacement for a 626 at 180 degrees. That is in line with the posted opening specs for the OEM one. We will see. Gotta few other thing to do first and cannot mess with the car for another week anyway. I am even do a side by side when I get the OEM one out. Wife always loves it when the kitchen becomes "Car Lab".
09-06-2010, 08:37 AM
#197
we missed out a very basic and most IMPORTANT element here: Where is your water temp sensor???
If all of us using the stock water temp sensor (some where near the water pump) as a gauge, then we are talking in the right channel.
But some of you might use Defi or other brands of gauge. And your water temp sensor might be installed on the radiator hose or using the RB adaptor which installed on the heater hose.
I've tried SPA dual digital gauge and Autogauge. When installing at the radiator hose, SPA reads 6degree C CONSTANTLY lower than stock sensor (OBDII). When installed with RB adaptor, SPA reads 8 - 11 degree C RANGE lower than stock sensor. Obviously I'd prefer installing the temp sensor at the radiator hose. The RB adaptor makes the reading sucks!
My friend has a Defi installed at the radiator hose and reads 2-3 degree C HIGHER than stock sensor. The other friend has the same setup but both reading are same.
If all of us using the stock water temp sensor (some where near the water pump) as a gauge, then we are talking in the right channel.
But some of you might use Defi or other brands of gauge. And your water temp sensor might be installed on the radiator hose or using the RB adaptor which installed on the heater hose.
I've tried SPA dual digital gauge and Autogauge. When installing at the radiator hose, SPA reads 6degree C CONSTANTLY lower than stock sensor (OBDII). When installed with RB adaptor, SPA reads 8 - 11 degree C RANGE lower than stock sensor. Obviously I'd prefer installing the temp sensor at the radiator hose. The RB adaptor makes the reading sucks!
My friend has a Defi installed at the radiator hose and reads 2-3 degree C HIGHER than stock sensor. The other friend has the same setup but both reading are same.
09-10-2010, 09:35 PM
#200
SRSBSNS
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Havent had a chance to read through this whole thread yet, but just wanted to post that I had temps at around 240+ today running at Willow Springs.. No noticeable loss of power or anything though.