interest in how to cool your engine thread?
08-06-2010, 11:20 AM
#1
interest in how to cool your engine thread?
I know there are lots of helpful hints and suggestions in the forum concerning how to help keep our engine cool. But, since the current heat wave is a raging I wondered if it would be easier to condense all those ideas to one thread?
People could share what they have done and their results? Etc.
Yall know I am a big believer in a secondary radiator set up. There are many different ways to do this and those also could be shared.
+ It would be a place to post your real results.
OD
People could share what they have done and their results? Etc.
Yall know I am a big believer in a secondary radiator set up. There are many different ways to do this and those also could be shared.
+ It would be a place to post your real results.
OD
08-06-2010, 11:43 AM
#3
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Having some consolidation might help. I often remember bits and pieces of certain threads and then spend an hour searching for stuff because the thread title turns out to be some crazy BS. You learn with time but for newbies it must be daunting.
08-06-2010, 04:33 PM
#8
yea there is a lot on info out there. Thats my point, little here, little there.
Its an important topic and it would be good to bring it together and post real after install findings. What works for one may not for the other.
I bet there is still some confusion out there as to what is considered a too high coolant
temp?
9K it will depend on the rpms.
If someone wants to post what they did WITH THEIR RESULTS--please do.
I will start tonight.
OD
Its an important topic and it would be good to bring it together and post real after install findings. What works for one may not for the other.
I bet there is still some confusion out there as to what is considered a too high coolant
temp?
9K it will depend on the rpms.
If someone wants to post what they did WITH THEIR RESULTS--please do.
I will start tonight.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 08-06-2010 at 04:36 PM.
08-06-2010, 07:45 PM
#11
I like to keep it simple. Not debating theory.
I live in Ga so 100F days and high humidity ( important) are not uncommon at all.
My normal DD temps would routinely get to 220F with the oem water pump, 70/30 coolant and oem thermostat. This was on a NA engine. During days when the ambient was 93- and above. This is with a/c ON
So:
Before:
city/stop and go -- 210/220F
interstate----------- 180-200F
track--------------------230F on track one time. (brought rpms down after that then 210-225!
Mods: 2nd radiator (21x7) mounted on the front bumper support, mazmart water pump, coolant 70/30.
On days of 93F and above--
city/stop and go-- 180-200
interstate----------- 175-180
track------------------ 190-210
I measure from 2 sensor positions , oem and RB heater hose adaptor
there is a slight difference between the two
OD
I live in Ga so 100F days and high humidity ( important) are not uncommon at all.
My normal DD temps would routinely get to 220F with the oem water pump, 70/30 coolant and oem thermostat. This was on a NA engine. During days when the ambient was 93- and above. This is with a/c ON
So:
Before:
city/stop and go -- 210/220F
interstate----------- 180-200F
track--------------------230F on track one time. (brought rpms down after that then 210-225!
Mods: 2nd radiator (21x7) mounted on the front bumper support, mazmart water pump, coolant 70/30.
On days of 93F and above--
city/stop and go-- 180-200
interstate----------- 175-180
track------------------ 190-210
I measure from 2 sensor positions , oem and RB heater hose adaptor
there is a slight difference between the two
OD
08-06-2010, 08:14 PM
#12
I divide by zero
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I agree with OD, too many threads around here lose their usefulness when debates on scientific data turn into drawn out and ultimately uninformative epeen fights. Would be great to just flip through a thread where everyone came and said. "Heres what I did, and here is the improvement or lack thereof that resulted."
Last edited by Mawnee; 08-06-2010 at 08:24 PM.
08-06-2010, 08:21 PM
#13
/\ OK then
I fitted an extra water radiator in place of the 2nd oil cooler . Drivers side on RHD model.
So 1 oil cooler - 2 radiators . Tested this on the track after fitting turbo and found water temps were kept below 95C under racing conditions .
This is while running about 280whp peak . Can't say what happened to oil temps as did not have a guage .
Also can't say what would have happened under same conditions without the 2nd water Rad.
I fitted an extra water radiator in place of the 2nd oil cooler . Drivers side on RHD model.
So 1 oil cooler - 2 radiators . Tested this on the track after fitting turbo and found water temps were kept below 95C under racing conditions .
This is while running about 280whp peak . Can't say what happened to oil temps as did not have a guage .
Also can't say what would have happened under same conditions without the 2nd water Rad.
08-06-2010, 09:05 PM
#14
the giant tastetickles
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Ok this is gonna sound very silly but my car's cooling has (maybe) improved after I got the autoexe hood and my fugly kenstyle front (frequency of fans coming on after shut down is less frequent after spirited driving). The front bumper's holes are a lot larger compared to MS one which I had previously so yeah, sounds dumb but it worked for me.
08-08-2010, 02:29 PM
#17
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/\ OK then
I fitted an extra water radiator in place of the 2nd oil cooler . Drivers side on RHD model.
So 1 oil cooler - 2 radiators . Tested this on the track after fitting turbo and found water temps were kept below 95C under racing conditions .
This is while running about 280whp peak . Can't say what happened to oil temps as did not have a guage .Also can't say what would have happened under same conditions without the 2nd water Rad.
I fitted an extra water radiator in place of the 2nd oil cooler . Drivers side on RHD model.
So 1 oil cooler - 2 radiators . Tested this on the track after fitting turbo and found water temps were kept below 95C under racing conditions .
This is while running about 280whp peak . Can't say what happened to oil temps as did not have a guage .Also can't say what would have happened under same conditions without the 2nd water Rad.
any plenty around here can attest that you can manage to keep coolant temps around say 190, and still have oil temps of 220...
08-08-2010, 02:33 PM
#18
/\ Best I get an oil temp guage then ...
although from what I've seen reported by others on here oil temp does follow engine temp pretty closely
I also wonder if what RG says about oil life applies equally to synthetic and dino ?
although from what I've seen reported by others on here oil temp does follow engine temp pretty closely
I also wonder if what RG says about oil life applies equally to synthetic and dino ?
Last edited by Brettus; 08-08-2010 at 02:45 PM.
08-08-2010, 04:07 PM
#19
you dont need an oil temp gauge--really.
But that is another discussion.
I was at Road Atlanta this w/e riding in the right seat (one session)of a friend of mine.
He has the mazmart water pump and a bigger radiator. I know it is not a kyroso.
He is running 70/30 coolant.
He is NA.
Ambient was 96--97 humidity was 50% or so.
He did not run in the high rpms a lot--but he was doing a 1:48 RA time (won TTD!)-Hit 9K only once. No long periods of 8K +--lots of 6-8K time
I have downloaded ob2 readings + gauge readings.
he went from 188 on grid to 235 in 5 minutes--then eased up to 240 at certain points. Soon as i pointed this out he pulled off and temps came down fast
he wasnt watching his gauges.
Point--certain mods do not mean you dont watch what is happening--dont think the problem is solved just because someone said it would.
OD
But that is another discussion.
I was at Road Atlanta this w/e riding in the right seat (one session)of a friend of mine.
He has the mazmart water pump and a bigger radiator. I know it is not a kyroso.
He is running 70/30 coolant.
He is NA.
Ambient was 96--97 humidity was 50% or so.
He did not run in the high rpms a lot--but he was doing a 1:48 RA time (won TTD!)-Hit 9K only once. No long periods of 8K +--lots of 6-8K time
I have downloaded ob2 readings + gauge readings.
he went from 188 on grid to 235 in 5 minutes--then eased up to 240 at certain points. Soon as i pointed this out he pulled off and temps came down fast
he wasnt watching his gauges.
Point--certain mods do not mean you dont watch what is happening--dont think the problem is solved just because someone said it would.
OD
08-08-2010, 04:43 PM
#20
SPOOLN8
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Gotta love Canada for this topic, usually only see 80-90*F days... coolant has been a steady 181*F almost all summer during regular driving... but I would be interested in a condensed thread as well with the turbo install coming up pretty soon and all... especially with plans to eventually upgrade
08-08-2010, 04:59 PM
#21
1) You dont need an oil temp gauge--really.
2) I was at Road Atlanta this w/e riding in the right seat (one session)of a friend of mine.
He has the mazmart water pump, a bigger radiator, and 70/30 coolant.
He is NA.
He went from 188 on grid to 235 in 5 minutes--then eased up to 240 at certain points. Soon as i pointed this out he pulled off and temps came down fast.
2) I was at Road Atlanta this w/e riding in the right seat (one session)of a friend of mine.
He has the mazmart water pump, a bigger radiator, and 70/30 coolant.
He is NA.
He went from 188 on grid to 235 in 5 minutes--then eased up to 240 at certain points. Soon as i pointed this out he pulled off and temps came down fast.
2) Did you suggest to him using the Mazmart thermostat?
The problem with this type of discussion is that there exists no scientific methodology for testing of any cooling system dynamics. The reason for this is because the environment in which we live/drive/race is dynamic and changing all the time from one moment to the next. The best we can do is identify to what extent we deviate from the context in which Mazda intended the RX-8 to be driven and modify our cooling systems to address said deviation..... on an individual basis.
In some cases, we can instruct others to modify/swap certain parts because we know through experience that there are only improvements to be had by some mods. Of course, this assumes that money is not an issue.
In most cases, we all agree that using the Mazmart thermostat is an improvement.
In most others, we all seem to agree that turning the fans on sooner is beneficial.
After this, we all seem to think that the Mazmart water pump helps as well.
Then, we look at the radiator or some sort of "secondary" radiator option and many have reported success with those, too.
We have also discussed various coolant mixtures and types of coolant.
All of these concerns are wholly dependent on the driving the individual does and the environment in which they do it.
As such, there will be no combination which suits everyone and (although I agree that coallating all available information into one thread will be beneficial to some) the best bet is for each individual to find someone whom they trust who knows exactly how each component in the cooling system works and has the ability to articulate WHY they advise as they do, and seek their guidance.
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 08-08-2010 at 05:04 PM.
08-09-2010, 09:00 AM
#22
wise words Ray.
I would like to add that I now know also my friends radiator is not a BHR one.
There are a lot of variables associated with any car modification. Without big bucks to test componets in a multitude of enviroments the best I know to do is to share what individual owners have done and then share their results for their car in their enviroment.
I added the RA results because we have been running that track under those simalar conditions for years. The same car has done this for a number of years and with some measured results between different modifications.
Just take it for want it is worth.
My point is NOT to bash or disclaim any item period. What works for one may not work for another. My point i want to make is to not take anyones word/claim that whatever they are selling/designing etc will solve your problem period. Always monitor how what you/others have done to your car---yourself.
Of interest--my friend and I have some work to do to try and find out why his upgraded package did not help his case. He was actually cooler with his oem radiator/mazmart pump/thermostat.
I am positive (as much as I can be) that cooler climate areas (never over 90) with normal humidity will be fine with the:
1- MM thermostat
2- MM waterpump
3- upgraded radiator
IMHO-- people in hot climates (greater than 90F)/normal humidity will need more than the above.
IMHO---People in hot climates with dry humidity are SOL---!!! As far as keeping the engine cooler than 220F in all conditions. Sorry guys--dont see how yall do it. Even a large secondary may not solve that heat?
OD
I would like to add that I now know also my friends radiator is not a BHR one.
There are a lot of variables associated with any car modification. Without big bucks to test componets in a multitude of enviroments the best I know to do is to share what individual owners have done and then share their results for their car in their enviroment.
I added the RA results because we have been running that track under those simalar conditions for years. The same car has done this for a number of years and with some measured results between different modifications.
Just take it for want it is worth.
My point is NOT to bash or disclaim any item period. What works for one may not work for another. My point i want to make is to not take anyones word/claim that whatever they are selling/designing etc will solve your problem period. Always monitor how what you/others have done to your car---yourself.
Of interest--my friend and I have some work to do to try and find out why his upgraded package did not help his case. He was actually cooler with his oem radiator/mazmart pump/thermostat.
I am positive (as much as I can be) that cooler climate areas (never over 90) with normal humidity will be fine with the:
1- MM thermostat
2- MM waterpump
3- upgraded radiator
IMHO-- people in hot climates (greater than 90F)/normal humidity will need more than the above.
IMHO---People in hot climates with dry humidity are SOL---!!! As far as keeping the engine cooler than 220F in all conditions. Sorry guys--dont see how yall do it. Even a large secondary may not solve that heat?
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 08-09-2010 at 09:03 AM.
08-09-2010, 10:02 AM
#23
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I have tried straight distilled water, water wetter, 50/50, 70/30, and it made no difference in cooling temps according to my logs.
I have the Koyo and my coolant temps are slightly higher than they were with the stock radiator. But sealing up the areas around the radiator has kept me at 230F and under whereas I was getting into the 240F (243F high if I remember correctly) range under low speed, high load, high heat situations.
I am running a 28" Fluidyne single oil cooler and under normal day to day driving, my coolant temps and oil temps are pretty close to each other except for when I get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic in 100F+ weather and 90% humidity, then my coolant temps are noticeably higher. And of course when i am Canyon carving my temps are high during the miles of curvy sections at lower speeds.
The Fluidyne unit will cool the oil off wayyyyyy faster than the two factory coolers at speed. The difference is amazing. This cooler would be an issue in real winter weather but I don't experience that so it is not an issue.
Is the radiant heat from my oil coolers causing my coolant temps to be a bit higher under high load, high heat situations? I think so, a bit anyway.
I will be adding an additional radiator with a bypass and the Mazmart thermostat before my next run.
I have the Koyo and my coolant temps are slightly higher than they were with the stock radiator. But sealing up the areas around the radiator has kept me at 230F and under whereas I was getting into the 240F (243F high if I remember correctly) range under low speed, high load, high heat situations.
I am running a 28" Fluidyne single oil cooler and under normal day to day driving, my coolant temps and oil temps are pretty close to each other except for when I get stuck in bumper to bumper traffic in 100F+ weather and 90% humidity, then my coolant temps are noticeably higher. And of course when i am Canyon carving my temps are high during the miles of curvy sections at lower speeds.
The Fluidyne unit will cool the oil off wayyyyyy faster than the two factory coolers at speed. The difference is amazing. This cooler would be an issue in real winter weather but I don't experience that so it is not an issue.
Is the radiant heat from my oil coolers causing my coolant temps to be a bit higher under high load, high heat situations? I think so, a bit anyway.
I will be adding an additional radiator with a bypass and the Mazmart thermostat before my next run.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 08-09-2010 at 10:06 AM.
08-09-2010, 11:43 AM
#25
At some point we need to list what was done and the results. Maybe a new thread?
How could that be done?
Would these be correct to list
1- enviroment car is driven (ambient temps , humidity, track or no??)
2- oem temps
3- what was done
4- results?
Course it needs to be know that when comparing your data that the ambeits/humidity driving ) needs to be as simalir as possibile?
Maybe we can boil it down to the most bang for the buck?
OD
How could that be done?
Would these be correct to list
1- enviroment car is driven (ambient temps , humidity, track or no??)
2- oem temps
3- what was done
4- results?
Course it needs to be know that when comparing your data that the ambeits/humidity driving ) needs to be as simalir as possibile?
Maybe we can boil it down to the most bang for the buck?
OD