Flywheel flywheels flywheels.
03-24-2007, 11:45 AM
#326
[QUOTE=Keef]... I'm hoping I'll get better with my Stainless steel clutch line and some sort of short shifter....
QUOTE]
I've been experiencing harder shifting (to the point of graunching on my last track day) . Does the ss clutch line help with this ?
QUOTE]
I've been experiencing harder shifting (to the point of graunching on my last track day) . Does the ss clutch line help with this ?
03-24-2007, 04:22 PM
#327
I think there could have been some air in the line & when the fluid got hot that caused the problem . Ie - incomplete disenguaging of the clutch .
With the HD clutch I have -the pedal travel required to release it is greater - do you think the ss line would reduce it any ?
With the HD clutch I have -the pedal travel required to release it is greater - do you think the ss line would reduce it any ?
03-24-2007, 05:35 PM
#328
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Your logic is reverse. If there WAS air in the line and heat was effecting the clutch action, getting hotter would help your issue more than hurt it. If you were to get an SS line and install it properly you'd have at least one suspicion covered as the new line would need to be bled anyway. Since you have an HD clutch--here we go again--how's that pedal bracket holding up? Is it flexing under load?
03-24-2007, 07:08 PM
#329
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Crawl under the dash with a flashlight, push on the clutch pedal with your hand, and look at the silver bracket that attaches the pedal assembly to the firewall. There are two spot welds that flank the clutch master cylinder/pushrod. See if those welds separate under pressure/stress.
Now i'm in dire need of a back adjustment
03-25-2007, 11:59 AM
#330
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Let me issue these cautions, as they seem to be appropiate here;
The RX-8 transmission is not a drag racing transmission nor is it one that is intended to be shifted quickly or banged through the gears. It is intended to shift smoothly when done in a fashion that is commensurate with road racing. Try this-keep both hands on the wheel while driving and only remove your right hand when you are shifting. If you intend to drag race, also keep in mind that concentrating on smooth shifts will do more to ensure that you do it as quick as you can, as opposed to hammering through the gears. Plus, you won't miss third near as much. When trying to shift quick (especially if you have little experience drag racing or putting your car through it "paces"), one tends to get excited and miss the gates. I have also found that the one area people seem to disregard when working on their shifting technique is footwork. Really take the time to get to know your particular clutch's friction zone and work on not pulling the shifter into the next gear until your foot is all the way to the floor. When you get really good at it then you can play games with the margins and start to pull out of gear before the clutch is disengaged. Until then, take it easy and you'll actually shift quicker and you won't wreck your trans. How do you think I have been able to hammer the Hell out of my trans and it has never had any trouble? Additionally, keep an eye out for a new product I'll soon offer that will help the clutch pedal feel.
The RX-8 transmission is not a drag racing transmission nor is it one that is intended to be shifted quickly or banged through the gears. It is intended to shift smoothly when done in a fashion that is commensurate with road racing. Try this-keep both hands on the wheel while driving and only remove your right hand when you are shifting. If you intend to drag race, also keep in mind that concentrating on smooth shifts will do more to ensure that you do it as quick as you can, as opposed to hammering through the gears. Plus, you won't miss third near as much. When trying to shift quick (especially if you have little experience drag racing or putting your car through it "paces"), one tends to get excited and miss the gates. I have also found that the one area people seem to disregard when working on their shifting technique is footwork. Really take the time to get to know your particular clutch's friction zone and work on not pulling the shifter into the next gear until your foot is all the way to the floor. When you get really good at it then you can play games with the margins and start to pull out of gear before the clutch is disengaged. Until then, take it easy and you'll actually shift quicker and you won't wreck your trans. How do you think I have been able to hammer the Hell out of my trans and it has never had any trouble? Additionally, keep an eye out for a new product I'll soon offer that will help the clutch pedal feel.
slow is smooth, smooth is fast..
beers
03-26-2007, 10:58 PM
#331
Hmm, today I got my flywheel and clutch installed.
Well I ran into 1 problem, instead of the 6 counterweight bolt, one of the forum vendor here made a mistake and sold me the 6 bolts that holds the clutch and flywheel, not counterweight to flywheel.
so what happen is that, the guy at the shop check and found some other flywheel bolt that fits on the counterweight size but it was a bit too long so he cut some off. nice and tight and applied threadlocker on all bolt.
Now Im wondering is this safe to do ? The dude there said since its nice and tight(impact gun all the way) plus threadlocker it will be hard as hell for it to become *loose*.
Reason I went to this shop was that, its recommended by a friend, plus the same shop just did a clutch install for Rx8 just a week b4 me (Flywheel first time, however), price is very reasonable.
Well I ran into 1 problem, instead of the 6 counterweight bolt, one of the forum vendor here made a mistake and sold me the 6 bolts that holds the clutch and flywheel, not counterweight to flywheel.
so what happen is that, the guy at the shop check and found some other flywheel bolt that fits on the counterweight size but it was a bit too long so he cut some off. nice and tight and applied threadlocker on all bolt.
Now Im wondering is this safe to do ? The dude there said since its nice and tight(impact gun all the way) plus threadlocker it will be hard as hell for it to become *loose*.
Reason I went to this shop was that, its recommended by a friend, plus the same shop just did a clutch install for Rx8 just a week b4 me (Flywheel first time, however), price is very reasonable.
03-27-2007, 09:30 AM
#335
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youll be fine. the only concern is did he get the bolt TOO tight. tight enough for them to break under heat and stress.
but I highly doubt it. I really think your fine man. it would take a lot to break them.
also, cutting the bolts down is fine.
but I highly doubt it. I really think your fine man. it would take a lot to break them.
also, cutting the bolts down is fine.
03-27-2007, 10:07 AM
#336
Alright, I take your guy's word for it.
Just bcuz of that, I was afraid to rev it pass 5K yesterday.
Now I think Im going to try some 9.5K action
Let me put my comments in for the Flywheel :
Fidanza Flywheel : Rev is definitely Faster, it feels like I just cut 0.5 second of my 0-60 speed.
ACT Street strip Clutch and Heavy Duty PP : Very hard to get a smooth engage. but the dude who did the install said that all performance clutch act like that. Im still trying to find the *sweet* point for it.
I made him replace the thorwout bearing and rear Tranny oil seal. cuz the throwout bearing was bad, and rear seal is easy to replace.
He didnt take the pliot bearing out tho, cuz I think its a bitch to get it off and he said is not needed cuz its not showing wear. What ya guys think about that ?
*will post some pics up later*
Just bcuz of that, I was afraid to rev it pass 5K yesterday.
Now I think Im going to try some 9.5K action
Let me put my comments in for the Flywheel :
Fidanza Flywheel : Rev is definitely Faster, it feels like I just cut 0.5 second of my 0-60 speed.
ACT Street strip Clutch and Heavy Duty PP : Very hard to get a smooth engage. but the dude who did the install said that all performance clutch act like that. Im still trying to find the *sweet* point for it.
I made him replace the thorwout bearing and rear Tranny oil seal. cuz the throwout bearing was bad, and rear seal is easy to replace.
He didnt take the pliot bearing out tho, cuz I think its a bitch to get it off and he said is not needed cuz its not showing wear. What ya guys think about that ?
*will post some pics up later*
Last edited by nycgps; 03-27-2007 at 10:10 AM.
03-27-2007, 10:48 AM
#338
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if everything is apart, I recomend replacing everything....
with that said, I am ok with not replacing the pilot bearing if the miles are within reason. of all the things that come in a "kit" the pilot bearing is the least important on my list. clutch pp, throw out bearings are a must.
the pilot bearing is a MOTHA to get out without the right tool.
I myself have not replaced the pilot bearing a few times.
does that help?
with that said, I am ok with not replacing the pilot bearing if the miles are within reason. of all the things that come in a "kit" the pilot bearing is the least important on my list. clutch pp, throw out bearings are a must.
the pilot bearing is a MOTHA to get out without the right tool.
I myself have not replaced the pilot bearing a few times.
does that help?
03-27-2007, 11:01 AM
#339
Old Flywheel.
Old PP and Clutch, Notice the Color and wear level
Same as above but another side of the Clutch.
Old Flywheel still on the Engine, Damn that big nut took a while to get it off.
Counterweight installed at the engine.
ACT HD PP and Street Strip clutch installed.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-27-2007 at 11:03 AM.
03-27-2007, 12:04 PM
#340
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^^^ mostly agreed.
I beat the hell out of my stock clutch (and I even had the chance to replace it when I did my flywheel) but dont see much need in replacing it since the factory clutch seems to do the job just fine.
(I have drag raced on it, and I auto cross every month)
now when the time comes that it is new clutch time (due to wear).... you can bet a stage one will be going in. but I see no need to do so before hand. (and I even have just about every N/A mod you can have... except an exhaust.... go figure)
I beat the hell out of my stock clutch (and I even had the chance to replace it when I did my flywheel) but dont see much need in replacing it since the factory clutch seems to do the job just fine.
(I have drag raced on it, and I auto cross every month)
now when the time comes that it is new clutch time (due to wear).... you can bet a stage one will be going in. but I see no need to do so before hand. (and I even have just about every N/A mod you can have... except an exhaust.... go figure)
03-27-2007, 01:36 PM
#341
Reason I have to change it bcuz it was slipping (I was having a hard time going up hill, the clutch wont *grab* properly)
And Factory clutch set cost *more* than aftermarket.
but since now I know the process of taking down the tranny and stuff ..... I will 100% take it down myself next time. I will need someone to *hold* the tranny for me thats about it.
And Factory clutch set cost *more* than aftermarket.
but since now I know the process of taking down the tranny and stuff ..... I will 100% take it down myself next time. I will need someone to *hold* the tranny for me thats about it.
Last edited by nycgps; 03-27-2007 at 01:38 PM.
03-28-2007, 10:16 PM
#344
but for now it should be fine rite?
Cuz b4 I got it up to 7-9K rpm for maybe 5-10 minutes. Then after I slow down, whenever I step on the gas I heard some tiny little *ding ding* sound. Its coming from *somewhere*. It only happens when I step on the gas.
Am I being too nervous ?
(Well I will 100% do it myself next time, cuz now I know where and how to take it down but for now .... Im afraid that the flywheel will come off and cut my leg -_-)
Cuz b4 I got it up to 7-9K rpm for maybe 5-10 minutes. Then after I slow down, whenever I step on the gas I heard some tiny little *ding ding* sound. Its coming from *somewhere*. It only happens when I step on the gas.
Am I being too nervous ?
(Well I will 100% do it myself next time, cuz now I know where and how to take it down but for now .... Im afraid that the flywheel will come off and cut my leg -_-)
03-29-2007, 05:10 PM
#345
Power!!
You should be fine with those 6 bolts. If you think about the physics of it they only keep the counterweight firmly seated to the flywheel. They are not fighting the centrifigul force of the flywheel. They only need to make sure the counterweight seats properly and stay on the flywheel longitudinally. As long as they don't come unscrewed they should hold fine.
One suggestion. you should avoid high RPM starts for a while until your clutch breaks in properly. It's fine to rev it up but don't do any 8000rpm clutch drops for a while. The clutch will need to mate up with the new flywheel just like brake pads need to mate up with new rotors. They are both not exactly flat so they have to wear together to get full contact.
One suggestion. you should avoid high RPM starts for a while until your clutch breaks in properly. It's fine to rev it up but don't do any 8000rpm clutch drops for a while. The clutch will need to mate up with the new flywheel just like brake pads need to mate up with new rotors. They are both not exactly flat so they have to wear together to get full contact.
04-04-2007, 09:40 AM
#347
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well, within a day I got my 8 back from the dealership with an
ACT prolite and clutch combo
SS clutch line
and
*New Transmission!* (Thanks Mazda!)
drove it too my local mechanic buddy and had him install my K&N intake/AP underdrive pulley
Too tell you the truth with all the modifications done, I feel like I've gained more torque, and that's all...
It revs faster, but not as fast as I would have expected it too... Happy I got this stuff done, but still a little mad at how weak this engine seems NA... Sometimes I just wish it was a v8 that weighed as much as a Renesis... Than the number 8 might actually make sense...
I expect my biggest improvement with tuning though... So I'm not going too let this hobby die even if I'm just discouraged...
Just going too get discouraged if the Accesport never becomes created for our cars...
ACT prolite and clutch combo
SS clutch line
and
*New Transmission!* (Thanks Mazda!)
drove it too my local mechanic buddy and had him install my K&N intake/AP underdrive pulley
Too tell you the truth with all the modifications done, I feel like I've gained more torque, and that's all...
It revs faster, but not as fast as I would have expected it too... Happy I got this stuff done, but still a little mad at how weak this engine seems NA... Sometimes I just wish it was a v8 that weighed as much as a Renesis... Than the number 8 might actually make sense...
I expect my biggest improvement with tuning though... So I'm not going too let this hobby die even if I'm just discouraged...
Just going too get discouraged if the Accesport never becomes created for our cars...
04-04-2007, 09:58 AM
#348
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if you got this car with the intenssions of lots of power in N/A form. you will be highly dissapointed. there is not much you can do to this car to get REAL power out of it. enerything is a sligh change at best.
This has been my problem with this car from day one. just realize that it handles very well, and looks awsome. but really the power potential on the N/A renesis is low without shelling out big bucks. :/
This has been my problem with this car from day one. just realize that it handles very well, and looks awsome. but really the power potential on the N/A renesis is low without shelling out big bucks. :/
04-04-2007, 11:04 AM
#350
Originally Posted by Keef
Too tell you the truth with all the modifications done, I feel like I've gained more torque, and that's all...
It revs faster, but not as fast as I would have expected it too... I expect my biggest improvement with tuning though... So I'm not going too let this hobby die even if I'm just discouraged...
...
Try a 9k burst in 1st gear - that will give you the biggest difference from stock.
Oh BTW tuning will not make it feel much quicker either - sorry to dissapoint.