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Old 02-15-2011, 02:46 PM
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Corner balanced my car the other day. Weighing in at 3000lbs with driver
Old 02-15-2011, 05:01 PM
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your skinny butt must weigh all of 125 lbs fully dressed
Old 02-15-2011, 05:11 PM
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So ................... THIS is the TeamRX8 admiration thread ?!
Old 02-15-2011, 07:29 PM
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135 Thank You

And i'm not sure if i'd admire someone who cones all his runs at the championships
Old 02-15-2011, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Modified Dave
George, did you try the Seafoam or Zoom Power engine cleaner approach already? I've been going through the same search for "missing power" and unfortunately all my cleaning efforts had very little effect. Doing a rebuild now with a spare Renesis I picked up on the cheap, since it seems to be the only way to get the compression optimized at this point.
Did seafoam, but I cheated and used the spray type - where you stick a little tube in the intake up stream of the TB and spray in the Seafoam with elevated revs. It smoked like crazy when I started it up 5 min later, but I don't think it's as thourough as the Mazda method of drawing it into the compression chambers without spark and leaving it sit for an hour. I know it didn't help the hot-start problem.

So, I'm trying water, based on a reccomendation from Rob at Pineapple. Basically, attached a tube to one of the auxilary ports, ran the tube into the passenger compartment & into a cup of distilled water and controlled the flow via an in-line valve. Then did it to the other port. Ran about 1/8th of a gallon through each port at elevated revs. Rob actually told me to do this while driving the car, but I chickened out. Intend to try that approach before putting the midpipe back on.

I did notice a smoother idle, but I won't be able to tell if it helps the hot-start since I just installed a new starter.

I'm not holding out high hopes on reclaiming lost torque, but I'll probably do another dyno to see. Even if I reclaim some, I'm sure a rebuild will be required to get maximum torque as my motor has never tested very high. Love to hear about your rebuild - I may take a similar approach.
Old 02-16-2011, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGear8
Finally got my seized camber bolt replaced today, and boy was it a PITA to cut the bolt off, torch the bushing out and air hammer the metal ring out of the control arm.
Yeah, tell me about it. It's cold out, so I took my car and new bushings and camber bolts to a local shop. Nearly $300 a side in labor. Ow.

I thought I would be smart and just order new LCAs, but they said the bulk of the labor was in getting the LCA out of the car in the first place.
Old 02-16-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGear8
135 Thank You

And i'm not sure if i'd admire someone who cones all his runs at the championships
Wow, you're like a Braun or Disimo in size. I actually added more 'ballast' this winter. Working out 5 days a week, puts me at 190lbs now.
Old 02-16-2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets
Yeah, tell me about it. It's cold out, so I took my car and new bushings and camber bolts to a local shop. Nearly $300 a side in labor. Ow.

I thought I would be smart and just order new LCAs, but they said the bulk of the labor was in getting the LCA out of the car in the first place.
Yeah I have a friend that works at Toyota and we spent about 3 hours total. Luckily hes a good friend so all I had to do was let him borrow my trailer for a day
Old 02-16-2011, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tpdrx8
I'm waiting to see what the weather man says.
Three solid opps to bust some rust off before Dixie.
CCR at Zmax 2/19 and TSCC in D'ville on 2/26-27.
The TnT will have the most runs but Zmax is closer for me and courses have been well done . . .

Why Chike, you lookin at D'ville? Haven't seen you since DC in '08!
Can't make Z, hoping that the weather is OK in VA next week
Old 02-16-2011, 09:39 PM
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It won't be the same without you Tom
Old 02-16-2011, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
So ................... THIS is the TeamRX8 loathing thread ?!

fixr3d
Old 02-17-2011, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGear8
I'll be there, Chike you should bring out the 8 to see how it does against Clines car.
Mike,

I may just bring the 8 out after all. We'll see what I show up in that day...

If I do bring the 8, I'll probably ask Sienkiewicz to take a couple of runs to give me a target to shoot for.
Old 02-18-2011, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGear8
Yeah I have a friend that works at Toyota and we spent about 3 hours total. Luckily hes a good friend so all I had to do was let him borrow my trailer for a day
Yeah, the whole thing got a lot, lot worse. The shop in question is one local racers trust, but the **** that they did to my car defies description.

Short version: my car requires welding to be put right. No kidding.
Old 02-19-2011, 02:51 PM
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if you plan to replace the entire bushing assembly then an oxy-acetylene cutting torch should make quick work of removing the bolt ends/stubs for pulling the LCA out, not sure how they can F that up, but nothing surprises me any more ...
Old 02-19-2011, 04:56 PM
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They likely FU the mounting tabs on the crossmember.
Old 02-19-2011, 07:26 PM
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The shop cut the bolt off right up against the subframe, and they did it with a reciprocating saw. The saw blade took off a bunch of material from the subframe. When I brought it to the shop owner's attention, he felt pretty bad about it and fixed the problem himself.

On the right side, he didn't cut the bolt right next to the subframe. I believe he cut through the bushing so he had some margin for error on either side.
Old 02-19-2011, 07:51 PM
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It isn't as easy to do as you would think...difficult access...and a lot of swearing....

thats why I made the thread years ago for everyone to pull it apart and lube them with never sieze...or at least spray the crap out of them with penetrating oil.....
Old 02-19-2011, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
It isn't as easy to do as you would think...difficult access...and a lot of swearing....

thats why I made the thread years ago for everyone to pull it apart and lube them with never sieze...or at least spray the crap out of them with penetrating oil.....
I understand that's what the shop did with the new bolts and bushings, yeah.
Old 02-19-2011, 11:54 PM
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it's pretty easy if you hang the engine from the top and drop the subframe out the bottom
Old 02-24-2011, 07:45 PM
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cranked it up for the first time in 4 months, always makes me a bit nervous after some major teardown work over such a long period but she fired right up and is running fine, not only did I lose almost 8 lbs changing the muffler packing but the sound level is noticably quieter too; win-win

She's off to Cobb for cornerweighing and alignment on Saturday, then running the first event for 2011 on Sunday


.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-24-2011 at 07:47 PM.
Old 02-25-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
It isn't as easy to do as you would think...difficult access...and a lot of swearing....

thats why I made the thread years ago for everyone to pull it apart and lube them with never sieze...or at least spray the crap out of them with penetrating oil.....

may i have the link to this thread?
Old 02-26-2011, 07:12 PM
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ok, are you ready for this? Following the cornerweighing at the Cobb/Plano, TX facility the results are ... drumroll please ...


2686# less driver , but I will probably need to add 20# of gas for a 2 day race weekend. Pretty close to my prediction.
Old 02-27-2011, 10:36 AM
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Anyone ever compare or have thoughts 255/40/17 vs 265/40/17? Is the extra weight of the 265 worth the 10mm of width? These will be going on some 17x9 RPF1, and they will be Star Specs. It looks like Star Specs are really the only tire that this comparison can be done on as they are the only ones available in both sizes.
Old 02-27-2011, 03:47 PM
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It would be better to just get the 265/35/18 for the shorter sidewall and more responsiveness.
Old 02-28-2011, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeTyson8MyKids
Anyone ever compare or have thoughts 255/40/17 vs 265/40/17? Is the extra weight of the 265 worth the 10mm of width? These will be going on some 17x9 RPF1, and they will be Star Specs. It looks like Star Specs are really the only tire that this comparison can be done on as they are the only ones available in both sizes.
I've used them on my BMW with pretty decent success. I've never noticed anything strange or floppy with the sidewall as the Dunlops are general stiff tires (and I've driven them back to back with my 255 AD08s and not noticed anything funny). The cost is hard to beat too. At Dixie I'll try to stack them next to Cline's 265/18s to see if there is any width difference between the two...


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