Texas RX8 R3

Me too lol. Though Castrol GTX seems to also be one of the more popular choices according to the poll.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I used Castrol GTX 10W-30 on my second motor and it lasted 75,000. I have also used it on previous cars with great results. But pretty much any of us will be okay with any of the above oil if it is changed regularly. That said, I use Mobil1 0W-40 now.

terch1

iTrader: (2)

I wish idemitsu would have been added to the list for the poll. I was contimplating using it but figured it would be a PITA to be ordering a couple cases of oil a year and paying for postage. For this reason I decided on RP, its stocked at all the local auto stotres like Pep Boys and Autozone. I did purchase a case of idemitsu premix to use with the Sohn adapter. Figured a case should last almost a year being the 8 is not my daily driver.

Rudolph

My "OTHER"-vote for the poll was for:
ARAL (Germany, nation wide available/fully owned by BP) synthetic 0W-40 low-SAPS (low-Sulphated Ash; Phosphor; Sulphur) engine oil.

I premix with a synthetic two-stroke oil (exceeding JASO FC) from "new" (7.000 miles) additionally to the OMP which supplies only a minimum amount (1 quart at 3.000-3500 miles) of four-stroke oil; too little imo.
The effect of premix was instantly noticable; the engine idles and revvs surprisingly supple from day one; no side effects since then.
I am a "moderate / quick" driver, paying utmost attention to the warming up phase, only revving during warming up first max. 3.000 rpm, later max. 3.500 / short 4.000 rpm, never running too low, both cold and warm.
I am sceptic towards sufficient suppression of carbon deposits due to redlining (up to the rev-limiter).
I see mainly disadvantages (extreme wear, load on exccentric shaft / heat, distortion on rotor housing) by running between 8 and 9 thousand rpm; however I am regulerary revving over (6.250) 7250 rpm (plus tachometer-deviation) to activate the APV and VDI in order to keep these valves free.