Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#201
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Ok, I have new dumb questions.
1.- When talking about suspensions, shocks, etc; what does "pre-loaded" mean?
2.- When new springs are installed on the OEM shocks, is there room for adjustment or do they just lower the car a set amount and that's it? (I bought my 8 used, with lowering springs on OEM shocks, I was wondering if it can be lifted just a tad (half an inch) without getting new springs).
1.- When talking about suspensions, shocks, etc; what does "pre-loaded" mean?
2.- When new springs are installed on the OEM shocks, is there room for adjustment or do they just lower the car a set amount and that's it? (I bought my 8 used, with lowering springs on OEM shocks, I was wondering if it can be lifted just a tad (half an inch) without getting new springs).
#204
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really stupid question but here we go.......... What uses more gas? 4th gear at 2000-2100 RPM or 3rd gear 3000 RPM? Those 2 gears are just an example. Basically what uses more gas higher gear at lower RPM or the oppossite?
#207
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
How much gas you use is dependent on a lot more than just what gear you are in.
I don't want to get into a lengthy discussion, but it is all based on load...
too much load and you are killing the engine and using much MORE gas because of that
too little load and then a big portion of your load it to overcome the internal friction of your transmission and motor. At idle, your load is like 20% ... that's ALL friction!
For NA (*This is an oversimplification*) You can think of load in terms of how much air is entering into your engine .... 100% possible air entering at the given rpm = 100% load... therefore, load is directly related to how much you are pressing the gas pedal
Ideally you want to have your load at around 60% -75% for best MPG at all times
High revs, low load = bad mpg due to friction losses
low revs, high load (85%+) = bad mpg due to MORE fuel being used to offset detonation etc...
For best mpg on a flat surface at cruise, you want to keep ur rpms in the 2250 - 3250 range ... with my experience, but DONT stomp on it ... if you are steadily accelerating, higher rpms are preferred due to increased load
.... others, feel free to expand
I don't want to get into a lengthy discussion, but it is all based on load...
too much load and you are killing the engine and using much MORE gas because of that
too little load and then a big portion of your load it to overcome the internal friction of your transmission and motor. At idle, your load is like 20% ... that's ALL friction!
For NA (*This is an oversimplification*) You can think of load in terms of how much air is entering into your engine .... 100% possible air entering at the given rpm = 100% load... therefore, load is directly related to how much you are pressing the gas pedal
Ideally you want to have your load at around 60% -75% for best MPG at all times
High revs, low load = bad mpg due to friction losses
low revs, high load (85%+) = bad mpg due to MORE fuel being used to offset detonation etc...
For best mpg on a flat surface at cruise, you want to keep ur rpms in the 2250 - 3250 range ... with my experience, but DONT stomp on it ... if you are steadily accelerating, higher rpms are preferred due to increased load
.... others, feel free to expand
Last edited by stinksause; 01-06-2011 at 12:59 PM.
#209
Speed is all you FN NEED
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How long do our shocks last?...under normal everyday "spirited" driving conditions and not a lot of pot holes or bad driving conditions...I realize it varies...so just a ball park idea???
#211
BearBlasterExtraordinair!
iTrader: (3)
How much gas you use is dependent on a lot more than just what gear you are in.
I don't want to get into a lengthy discussion, but it is all based on load...
too much load and you are killing the engine and using much MORE gas because of that
too little load and then a big portion of your load it to overcome the internal friction of your transmission and motor. At idle, your load is like 20% ... that's ALL friction!
For NA (*This is an oversimplification*) You can think of load in terms of how much air is entering into your engine .... 100% possible air entering at the given rpm = 100% load... therefore, load is directly related to how much you are pressing the gas pedal
Ideally you want to have your load at around 60% -75% for best MPG at all times
High revs, low load = bad mpg due to friction losses
low revs, high load (85%+) = bad mpg due to MORE fuel being used to offset detonation etc...
For best mpg on a flat surface at cruise, you want to keep ur rpms in the 2250 - 3250 range ... with my experience, but DONT stomp on it ... if you are steadily accelerating, higher rpms are preferred due to increased load
.... others, feel free to expand
I don't want to get into a lengthy discussion, but it is all based on load...
too much load and you are killing the engine and using much MORE gas because of that
too little load and then a big portion of your load it to overcome the internal friction of your transmission and motor. At idle, your load is like 20% ... that's ALL friction!
For NA (*This is an oversimplification*) You can think of load in terms of how much air is entering into your engine .... 100% possible air entering at the given rpm = 100% load... therefore, load is directly related to how much you are pressing the gas pedal
Ideally you want to have your load at around 60% -75% for best MPG at all times
High revs, low load = bad mpg due to friction losses
low revs, high load (85%+) = bad mpg due to MORE fuel being used to offset detonation etc...
For best mpg on a flat surface at cruise, you want to keep ur rpms in the 2250 - 3250 range ... with my experience, but DONT stomp on it ... if you are steadily accelerating, higher rpms are preferred due to increased load
.... others, feel free to expand
To put it simply, you want to keep RPMS as low as you can, with the throttle as open as possible.
#213
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
Rear: you will get a CEL P0420 I think
Front: you will get **** for economy, and also possibly a CEL
You can't forget pumping loss. Efficiency is based off of load, yes. The higher load, the more efficient the engine is working. If you could have a car running at max load with the throttle all the way open, you would get awesome mileage. However, pumping loss is a big factor as well. When the engine has to suck against a closed throttle body, it takes a good amount of power to generate that vacuum. Diesels don't have a throttle body, so they have good efficiency due to lack of pumping loss.
To put it simply, you want to keep RPMS as low as you can, with the throttle as open as possible.
Last edited by stinksause; 01-14-2011 at 02:48 PM.
#216
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
not sure if serious as you have over 2k posts ... but I'll answer anyway
you can REVERSE the install really easily and bring it back to stock (except for where you run your wires - not visible anyway)
it looks stock
With the way I've seen people's wiring harnesses tucked away after engine swaps (at stealerships), I don't think a rb pod with have an appreciable effect on the price of the car....
you can always take it out if people complain
the buyer may even think it is a good thing ...
you can REVERSE the install really easily and bring it back to stock (except for where you run your wires - not visible anyway)
it looks stock
With the way I've seen people's wiring harnesses tucked away after engine swaps (at stealerships), I don't think a rb pod with have an appreciable effect on the price of the car....
you can always take it out if people complain
the buyer may even think it is a good thing ...
#223
The Stink w.o The Sause
iTrader: (5)
I don't have one to recommend ... why are you attacking me ... NO FLAME thread ... ?
For what it is (sections of pipe with a few holes, and a filter) , I think it is overpriced ... you can argue R&D, yes ... maybe a was a bit excessive with the $200, but it is still overpriced, as are about 80% of the after market products for the rx8 ... some more, some less
For what it is (sections of pipe with a few holes, and a filter) , I think it is overpriced ... you can argue R&D, yes ... maybe a was a bit excessive with the $200, but it is still overpriced, as are about 80% of the after market products for the rx8 ... some more, some less
Last edited by stinksause; 01-14-2011 at 11:31 PM.
#224
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i started the car with out the maf sensor hooked up and the the other plug thats on the same line (green one). and it caused the traction control light, the cel, and battery lights all to come on. i remembered that i forgot to reconnect them and reconnected. but the cel light stayed on.
i have two questions? will disconnecting the battery reset the cel or is there another way to reset it?
i have two questions? will disconnecting the battery reset the cel or is there another way to reset it?