Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 90
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From: Cincy
Injector Gasket
So had been throwing a bank 1 lean code off and on forever it seems but Mazda had not been able to find the real issue - would reset and be okay then throw the code again - you get the drift - had started tossing the code more and more and felt lack of performance - requested an engine compression and it was fine - this is the second engine in the car and has ~60k on this engine, ~122k on the car (an 04) - mechanic just called and said they found the issue after I took it back for what feels like the millionth time- missing a gasket on an injector.
So my question is how the heck does that happen? How does a gasket go missing on an injector?
Thanks for your insight friends
So my question is how the heck does that happen? How does a gasket go missing on an injector?
Thanks for your insight friends
So had been throwing a bank 1 lean code off and on forever it seems but Mazda had not been able to find the real issue - would reset and be okay then throw the code again - you get the drift - had started tossing the code more and more and felt lack of performance - requested an engine compression and it was fine - this is the second engine in the car and has ~60k on this engine, ~122k on the car (an 04) - mechanic just called and said they found the issue after I took it back for what feels like the millionth time- missing a gasket on an injector.
So my question is how the heck does that happen? How does a gasket go missing on an injector?
Thanks for your insight friends
So my question is how the heck does that happen? How does a gasket go missing on an injector?
Thanks for your insight friends
have they replaced the 02 sensor?
An injector leak usually is a fairly big leak..so would expect it to cause it to run crappy as well...Most common reason though for a "lean" code is a vac leak
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 73
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Hey folks. I'm new on here, so be easy on me
For some reason, for the past day or so, when I arm the immobilizer my flashers don't flash.
They used to before..... Did I do something?
The horn still sounds and I can hear the doors lock, just wondering about my flashers....
For some reason, for the past day or so, when I arm the immobilizer my flashers don't flash.
They used to before..... Did I do something?
The horn still sounds and I can hear the doors lock, just wondering about my flashers....
Your trunk is open, you just haven't noticed.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
Your trunk is open, you just haven't noticed.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
Last edited by Carbon8; Oct 11, 2012 at 07:36 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 73
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Your trunk is open, you just haven't noticed.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
No really, check it out. No flash means that it's armed, but everything is not secure. Hood, all 4 doors, and trunk. Usually the trunk is the culprit since it can be unlatched and only fractionally off of the latch position so not obvious, and it's easy to accidentally hit the trunk button on the remote.
I'm pretty sure we have a hood latch sensor, or something like a switch that is closed/opened with the hood shut completely. You won't get the marker flashes when locking if the hood is popped to even the first stage of latch.
I haven't actually done any searching around the latch area or hood contact points to determine where it is or how it works. But the behavior is there.
I haven't actually done any searching around the latch area or hood contact points to determine where it is or how it works. But the behavior is there.
Here is a better pic of the issue I am having with my Oil leak.
You can see that the drain plug has a small leak, but you can also see that the bracket that meets/holds the oil pan above it also a bit wet and has a few drops on it. Can this still be ONLY coming from the drain plug? It seems like it would have to be vibrating/bouncing around a lot for oil coming from the drain plug to splash upwards at that piece. But it would also seem weird to randomly start having oil leaks in 2 places.
Any Ideas?
Also, to combine another question. I wanted to get your opinion on the quality of the jacks I use. I got a set from a brand called big red which is a 2-ton jack and 2 jack stands. I got it at advanced auto parts because the price was right and so far they have held up nicely. Do you trust this brand?
You can see that the drain plug has a small leak, but you can also see that the bracket that meets/holds the oil pan above it also a bit wet and has a few drops on it. Can this still be ONLY coming from the drain plug? It seems like it would have to be vibrating/bouncing around a lot for oil coming from the drain plug to splash upwards at that piece. But it would also seem weird to randomly start having oil leaks in 2 places.
Any Ideas?
Also, to combine another question. I wanted to get your opinion on the quality of the jacks I use. I got a set from a brand called big red which is a 2-ton jack and 2 jack stands. I got it at advanced auto parts because the price was right and so far they have held up nicely. Do you trust this brand?
Last edited by jamesf; Oct 11, 2012 at 10:18 PM.
R34ME
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 219
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From: Toronto, ON
where is the speed sensor located? got a used RX8 that has smaller 225/35/19 tires on the front with the oem tires on the back. This is 3.4% to fast, which i am concerned will rack up extra km's on the odo.
is distance/speed measured at the front or the back? 09 rx8 r3
is distance/speed measured at the front or the back? 09 rx8 r3
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1
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From: Houston tx
2 stroke oil????
I've heard of people putting "a dab" of two stroke oil in with the fuel when they plan on running the engine hard. I can't imagine that this would be any good for the fuel filter or cat. Any thoughts?
where is the speed sensor located? got a used RX8 that has smaller 225/35/19 tires on the front with the oem tires on the back. This is 3.4% to fast, which i am concerned will rack up extra km's on the odo.
is distance/speed measured at the front or the back? 09 rx8 r3
is distance/speed measured at the front or the back? 09 rx8 r3
M/T incorporates readings gathered at all 4 abs sensors and gets the vehicles speed from them.
Quick search will reveal threads containing thousands of post going over it in great detail until you fully understand the sides of both arguments I would wait to make a decision on weather or not to do it to your own car.
But because I'm in a great mood this AM
https://www.rx8club.com/audio-video-...systems-40671/
Your welcome
In addition to the below, you might want to take a look at this thread too: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...rx-8-a-233937/
Premix
(no impact to warranty)
Premix thread: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-thread-99636/
Premix is mixing 2-stroke oil with the gas in the gas tank to assist with lubrication of the apex seals. Why 2-stroke? Because 2-stroke (in general) is designed to be burned. Unlike 4-stroke that you use in during oil changes. Why premix? This gets a bit more vague when answering. The short answer is as noted, to assist with apex seal lubrication. But do we need it? That's a tougher question to answer with facts. Some people swear by it, others do just fine without it. Series 1 has 2 injectors pointing at the side seals, Series 2 adds a center injector to help with lubricating the center of the apex seal. Mazda added this, so they must have found excessive wear in the center of the apex seal, so it's circumstantial evidence for the need to premix. It's hard to say if this will save your engine from apex seal wear failure though. About the only confirmed difference premixing really makes is that the carbon buildup inside the engine appears to be "softer". In theory, makes it easier to clean, and if it comes off it won't come off in dangerous flakes that could cause carbon lock.
Which premix to use? Lots of debate here too. There are lots of options, and not all of them are even oil. The list below is ordered from most ideal at the top, least ideal/not recommended at the bottom.
(no impact to warranty)
Premix thread: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-thread-99636/
Premix is mixing 2-stroke oil with the gas in the gas tank to assist with lubrication of the apex seals. Why 2-stroke? Because 2-stroke (in general) is designed to be burned. Unlike 4-stroke that you use in during oil changes. Why premix? This gets a bit more vague when answering. The short answer is as noted, to assist with apex seal lubrication. But do we need it? That's a tougher question to answer with facts. Some people swear by it, others do just fine without it. Series 1 has 2 injectors pointing at the side seals, Series 2 adds a center injector to help with lubricating the center of the apex seal. Mazda added this, so they must have found excessive wear in the center of the apex seal, so it's circumstantial evidence for the need to premix. It's hard to say if this will save your engine from apex seal wear failure though. About the only confirmed difference premixing really makes is that the carbon buildup inside the engine appears to be "softer". In theory, makes it easier to clean, and if it comes off it won't come off in dangerous flakes that could cause carbon lock.
Which premix to use? Lots of debate here too. There are lots of options, and not all of them are even oil. The list below is ordered from most ideal at the top, least ideal/not recommended at the bottom.
I assume this is just my tanny showing some wear but figured I would look into it to be safe, just did a fluid change and noticed around the drain plug and other locations on the tranny what seem to be some stress cracks. No leaks present everything is tight and sound drives perfectly just woundering if this is something I should be concerned about or if its typical. I'll attach some photo's below.
Dum de de dum dum hmmmmm, pics on previous Paige if anyone has some thoughts please.
Figured as much from what I could find it could be anything from poor casting to just flaws in the mold used, but as long as they are not severe, considering transmissions aren't pressurized then it should cause no future problems. So I'm leaving it alone.
R34ME
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Partially. A different rotational size front to rear is a much bigger problem when it comes to DSC, ABS, and TCS however, since it uses a comparison of the different rolling rates.